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BA-in-Mich · 05-10-2011, 06:26 PM

After having intermittent problems with my ignition key switch. I decided to change it out.
My friend, Randy/High5, was also having issues with his "90" Georgie Boy motor home ignition switch. Randy was good enough to buy 2 switches. I was the recipient of one of them.
When I pulled it apart I was shocked to find that it had melted part of the harness connector. I got thinking how lucky I was that I found this before it it went up in flames. One of the spade lugs had to be replaced because it did not have enough tension to stay on the "battery" connector on the new switch. High5 had also had the same issue with his. One thing that tipped me off to a problem was after I was on the road for a couple of hours the key switch bezel was quite warm. I was also having an issue when starting. sometimes it would start as I was cranking and other times it would start after I let go of the key.

JimElliott · 05-10-2011, 08:15 PM

Brian, IF your going to use the same "lugs" they will need to be polished up real good.
Dirty burnt lugs that I see will add more resistance (heat) and good luck..

Jim

Gary - K7GLD · 05-10-2011, 08:51 PM

What chassis - GM, Ford, or Dodge, what year on yours?

Dirtbuster · 05-10-2011, 09:17 PM

This is also a common problem on older model cars, that have interior dimmer switch knobs. When you dim your instrument panel lights, this puts more resistance on the switch. More resistance causes higher current on the switch. I always keep mine close to high. My 82 Corvette almost caught fire do to this. It was amazing how fast I removed my battery cables, with smoke was pouring out from under the dash.

Beware!

BA-in-Mich · 05-11-2011, 01:08 PM

Jim I replaced one connector the rest of them i took my Dremel tool to and cleaned them up. I checked them them all for tightness and the one that was in sorry shape got replaced.
Gary, It is a 1990 P-30 chassis
DB, I have a dimmer switch on the headlight control but it is never turned down. Besides I think with all of the current going through the starter switch especially the 2 12" fans up front I'm sure it plays he11 on the contacts.

Gary - K7GLD · 05-11-2011, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Gary, It is a 1990 P-30 chassis

Thanks - this might be a "heads-up" for our '88 P30-based Winnie as well...

BA-in-Mich · 05-11-2011, 03:23 PM

One thing also. I could not see the issue till I actually got the switch out and in my hand. The melted area was still inside of the rim of the switch. Now to get the switch out ( Thanks high5 ) there is a little hole next to where you put the key in. ( you will need a paper clip ) insert the key into the switch and turn the key to ACC. Now push the paper clip into the hole and you should feel a springy button that will go in about a 1/16-1/8". Once you feel the button push in continue turning the key past the ACC position. It will turn about 20-30degrees more. once you've turned it that far pull out the key and the whole tumbler assy will come out with the key. From there you can now unscrew the front bezel/chrome ring that is around the key tumbler. If you don't get the key tumbler out you will not get the bezel to come out and you won't get the switch out.

Gary - K7GLD · 05-11-2011, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BA-in-Mich

One thing also. I could not see the issue till I actually got the switch out and in my hand. The melted area was still inside of the rim of the switch. Now to get the switch out ( Thanks high5 ) there is a little hole next to where you put the key in. ( you will need a paper clip ) insert the key into the switch and turn the key to ACC. Now push the paper clip into the hole and you should feel a springy button that will go in about a 1/16-1/8". Once you feel the button push in continue turning the key past the ACC position. It will turn about 20-30degrees more. once you've turned it that far pull out the key and the whole tumbler assy will come out with the key. From there you can now unscrew the front bezel/chrome ring that is around the key tumbler. If you don't get the key tumbler out you will not get the bezel to come out and you won't get the switch out.

HEY - great info - I would have been spinning my wheels trying to simply un-thread the bezel - thinking that would release the whole shebang!

Thanks!