Community Forums

tekrsq · 05-10-2011, 06:43 PM

For whatever reason, my fuel sending unit (the part that sends the signal to the gas gauge to let you know how much gas you have) has stopped working. A friend of mine that knows how to troubleshoot electrical issues has confirmed it's the sending unit. So I attempted to buy a replacement today, and discovered there are 5 possibilities from Ford (provided Coachmen didn't change it all together). It's virtually impossible to figure out which one I need, without dropping the tank and getting the part number. Heck, I'm not even sure what size the tank is. So here's my questions:

Has anyone had to replace their sending unit in the older Ford/Coachmen rigs ?
Do you have any idea what the part number is?
Do you have any idea what size is the gas tank ?

Phobos · 05-10-2011, 07:17 PM

I'm afraid the only way you are going to get the right part for sure is to drop the tank and take the old one out.
Unfortunately, that's one of the pitfalls of owning a vintage RV.

On the bright side though, it won't be as expensive to replace as some of the newer cars are.

ischua · 05-13-2011, 08:06 PM

Dorman/Fuel Tank Part Number: 576-167

38 gallons and they can still be had

kaz442 · 05-15-2011, 08:40 AM

I just went through this on my MH. I contacted Airtex and gave them the info on my MH. Told them it was an 1988 chassis with a 1989 title, 460 fuel injected motor etc. They told me it "will" be part #E2071s. So I order it from an online source for about $200 shipped. Drop tank and install it. Add 4 gal of fuel gas gauge now reads full, before it would not move off empty. I contacted Airtex again and they tell me that mine might be different and I now need part # E2060s. So now what do I do, I cannot return the first one I bought because its an electrical part thats been used and had fuel through it. After several emails and phone calls Airtex sent me the proper unit free of charge.
Only problem with my original unit is the factory brass float had sprung a leak and filled with fuel not allowing it to float. This is what probably is wrong with yours. But since your aleady there might as well change the fuel pump since it is probabkly the org to your MH.
Good luck, I still haven't changed out my sending unit to many other things on the "to do list" and not wanting to drop the fuel tank again.
Lesson learn is to check the ohms of your sending unit to the new sending unit before installing. Some where along the line Ford reversed the way they read.
JKaz

4x4van · 05-15-2011, 11:09 AM

I replaced mine on my '88 Jamboree 26'. '87 E-350 chassis, 460cid 4 barrel carb, 40 gallon fuel tank. Mine was the E2060S, which included 3 pickups (1 for engine, 1 for return line, 1 for generator. Got mine from rockauto.com for $170, but I see now it's $207.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=293231

RockAuto Parts Catalog

tekrsq · 05-15-2011, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ischua

Dorman/Fuel Tank Part Number: 576-167

38 gallons and they can still be had

I thought you had a 40 gal tank on that thing ? I've been basing my mileage on the 40 gal assumption.

Thanks for the part numbers, guys !!! I've found a couple of sources for the pumps, and they are all about the same price. However, I think for now, I'll just keep using the odometer and filling up every 175-200 miles. I've had a couple of extra expenses lately, and that $200 just isn't in the budget right now.

ischua · 05-15-2011, 05:58 PM

As the sending unit hasn't worked right even before I got it and I never knew the true gallon amount in the tank I have always refilled the tank at 300 miles or less

tekrsq · 05-15-2011, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ischua

As the sending unit hasn't worked right even before I got it and I never knew the true gallon amount in the tank I have always refilled the tank at 300 miles or less

WOW !! 300 miles ?? Really ?? I was scared to push it that far.

The few times we've been out with it, we've averaged 7.5 mpg, but that's been pulling a trailer with the motorcycles. I'm sure it would probably do a little better without the bikes and trailer, but I can't see it making that much of a difference. Either way, we need to base our mileage on a "normal" trip, and we will have our bikes with with us 99% of the time.

4x4van · 05-19-2011, 04:12 PM

I had no choice but to replace mine; The gauge sending unit portion worked fine but the fuel pump portion went out.

tekrsq · 05-19-2011, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4x4van

I had no choice but to replace mine; The gauge sending unit portion worked fine but the fuel pump portion went out.

I admit, that does worry me. We talked about it, and we've decided to replace it later this year (for that reason). The money and time just are not in the cards right now. At least it looks easy enough to replace. It "should" only take a couple of hours.

tekrsq · 10-22-2011, 01:11 PM

Finally bought the fuel pump/sending unit and hope to put it in next weekend, but got couple of questions before I dig into this:

1- How do I get the locking ring off the current unit, and how does the new one go back on?

2- Is the locking ring smaller than the mounting plate of the unit ? The one they sent me is.

3- Is there supposed to be a gasket between the new unit and the tank? I saw a diagram that had 2 gaskets (1 between the unit and tank, and 1 with the locking ring), but the only gasket I can find comes with the locking ring. All the parts companies tell me there is not one between the tank and unit.

GMRHost · 10-24-2011, 10:01 PM

to remove the lock ring, you can use a hammer... on a piece of Dowel, that is

Use the dowel as your drift to drive the tabs on the lock ring loose. reverse to install. The ring is smaller than the plate, as the plate sits in its own recess and the lockring installs on top of it, holding the larger plate down.
I've gotta say, I've only seen the one gasket, and to isolate it completely would increase the chance of static in the sending unit. Not good in a gas tank