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TT_Vert · 05-13-2023, 03:24 PM

This is the dump solenoid. Oddly the service manual has a PN of 500097 but the actually PN is a waterman PN 704107. Researching here seems that the PN may now be 359433 by Hydac Lipperts. These things are just basic 12V coils (Solenoids) but the ID of it has to be correct to not float around on the stem of the valve to operate optimally. I am seeing repros but they state things like " Fits Valve Stem Series 08, 80, 88, and 98", etc. I believe the OD of the valve stem on these things in 1/2"

I had the spade terminal break off and i've soldered it back together a few times and have had it break on the road at least once and have to just jumpered it (No big deal but still). I have it soldered back together again but no doubt it'll break again so I'm hoping to pick one up for my trip next week and I'll swap it out on the road if need be.

I have a 94 Power gear w/ a 1.5 gallon power unit but the dump solenoid seems to be the same for all 94-99s at a minimum.

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks
Dave

Jim_HiTek · 05-14-2023, 07:17 PM

Wow. A '95. I owned a '94 Bounder with the Power Gear Tri-jacks and had the same problem but I just repaired the two that corroded off a terminal. Ground down the epoxy from the broken terminal, soldered a new one back on.

Never did find a part number for a new one but I think if you take the physical measurements, then compare to any ol' 12 volt solenoid with a 1/2" hole and around the same physical length that it would work. You can also measure the resistance from one of the others to get that info too.

Meanwhile, here's a link to my ad free blog article about that job: Power Gear

TT_Vert · 05-15-2023, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek

Wow. A '95. I owned a '94 Bounder with the Power Gear Tri-jacks and had the same problem but I just repaired the two that corroded off a terminal. Ground down the epoxy from the broken terminal, soldered a new one back on.

Never did find a part number for a new one but I think if you take the physical measurements, then compare to any ol' 12 volt solenoid with a 1/2" hole and around the same physical length that it would work. You can also measure the resistance from one of the others to get that info too.

Meanwhile, here's a link to my ad free blog article about that job: Power Gear

Thanks. If my solder joint vibrates apart again I am going to just cut down the epoxy, solder on a wire and just epoxy that, that'll be a permanent fix. Not the best way but it'd last the lifetime of that RV likely. I am 99% sure these are what would work though. All specs and dimensions are correct.

As you found, the likely reason your jacks down light never went out was due to low fluid level. Basically when the jacks retract they send all fluid back into the reservoir and this swinging level sensor raised to indicate enough fluid is back into the reservoir ergo the jacks must have displaced enough fluid to be up completely. I have the service manual if you want it. Has great old school diags.

Dave

TT_Vert · 05-18-2023, 07:21 PM

As an FYI the one I linked from amazon worked a treat, perfect fit also. The only difference is this one draws up to 16W vs. 12W of the other one. Only another 330ish mA of current draw so should not ever be an issue.

Dave

Jim_HiTek · 05-18-2023, 08:13 PM

Since the valve body is decades old, I'd give pause to increasing the magnetic strength the increased wattage for the solenoid implies but then on reflection, I'd think, "Yeah but that old mechanical fluid valve might need that extra oomph". And I'd go with it.

BTW, I found that the electronic drivers for the coils? Are a standard part number. It's an IC with several transistors of which a couple weren't used so I re-wired one to turn on a brighter bigger LED for personal use. I had the light package in my stock of electronics but it had a neon so I gutted it and replaced it with an LED. I liked being able to actually see the LED when On instead of the tiny surface mount LED the manufacturer had used on that flat control platform.

When I bought the '94 Bounder it had that plate, but there wasn't an LED in the Jack Down hole as the plate was for a newer model RV. The only light was tiny Jacks Down LED below the Power Gear logo.

But I digress...point is that the components in the control box, in the event one of the transistors blows, are standard electronic devices easily found on line.

So, it's cool that the solenoid from Amazon worked out for you. Thanks for posting the link.

TT_Vert · 05-18-2023, 08:21 PM

Well i certainty doubt (hope) the engineers who designed the circuity accounted for varying current draws from the solenoids as well as input voltages. Heck those 12W coil windings probably vary quite a bit resistance wise. Some may be 13W, some may be 11W. With that said, I hope they build a bit more fudge factor into it than 330mA. I hope they wouldn't use a tranny to switch this thing that is literally capable of 1A of current capacity max w/a 12W (1A) load from the solenoid. Beyond that you have to factor in fluctuating voltages.

Dave