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Old 09-13-2019, 12:29 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLOweather View Post
Hey, 1970s Titans, I have a question. My parents had a late 60s Travco on a Dodge chassis. The gave it to us in the mid '80s.


How many digits do the odometers in your Titans have? XXXXX.X or XXXXXX.X?



Thanks!
Mine are both XXXXX.X. The odometer in this one currently reads 77,406.8 I think.
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Old 09-13-2019, 12:33 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by tinchariot View Post
What is the GVWR of that Titan?
That 318 will pick up 100~150 + HP with the fast burn 302 heads and proper head gasket a must! An RV grind camshaft change, headers with 2 1/4" to 2.5" / 3" exhaust pipe, four barrel intake with a Demon 1901 carb with a cold air intake.
Want info on engine mods PM me! I have done many 318's and 360 engine upgrades in RV's..
The GVWR on this one is 11,000. But I'm not doing any sort of real engine mods on it. I kind of like it the way it is for now and I can't afford any expensive parts quite yet. For now all I'm doing is getting the burnt valves fixed and maybe upgrading the exhaust.
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Old 09-13-2019, 07:18 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1970s Titans View Post
Mine are both XXXXX.X. The odometer in this one currently reads 77,406.8 I think.



Thanks! That's what I thought. Our Travco odo had gone around completely once and had >150,000 miles on it even though the odo said >50,000.
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Old 09-13-2019, 12:20 PM   #46
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cylinder head upgrade!

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Originally Posted by 1970s Titans View Post
The GVWR on this one is 11,000. But I'm not doing any sort of real engine mods on it. I kind of like it the way it is for now and I can't afford any expensive parts quite yet. For now all I'm doing is getting the burnt valves fixed and maybe upgrading the exhaust
Most likely those early heads on your rig dose not have hardened valve seats. Do the job once!
Installing the 302 heads will up the compression. More compression helps! The can be purchased from Rock Auto for far less than any local machine shop ($550.~$700.) can do a complete valve job to your heads, this will save money for other upgrades!!!
These heads you are looking for; "https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1985,b350,5.2l+318cid+v8,1075889,engine,cyli nder+head,5304", purchase the #302 casting ONLY!! Using a Felpro gasket set the engine will still run on unleaded fuel.

Adding a four barrel manifold with a Demon 1901 VACUUM secondary carb will keep the rig from bogging down on hills AND if you keep your foot out of it better fuel mileage than any stock 2 barrel carb.

Timing chain is most likely bad and a single row chain at that. Installing a double row true roller timing chain (Summit SUM-G6603R-9) & advancing it 2 deg (cam timing was retarded for smog reasons from the manufacture).
Check your ignition system! If it has points upgrade to a later mid 1970's B300 318/360 distributor.

Check the outlet size of your exhaust manifolds, if the are 2 1/4 they are the HD manifolds. If not get a set from a latter 1970's 360 truck / van engine or get headers. Headers are cheap, anything will bolt up to that engine with all the room around it. Use 2 1/4 pipe to muffler and 3" outlet for single exhaust or 2 1/2 / 2 3/4 out let for dual exhaust.

Set the timing for a total mechanical advance of 35 degs and adjust the vacuum advance at 3000 RPM's to 50 degs MAX-Total advance.

Check the fan installed if it has 5 blades upgrade to a 7 blade fan it will cool better and If it dose not have a viscous fan clutch install one! This alone free's up 15~20 HP!

You will love this combination I suggested. This is not a Hot Rod setup! It will in fact free up about 100 HP, make the engine more efficient and better fuel mileage. I have set up many 318's this way for years!! I do have a Edelbrock 4 barrel manifold if you are interested. PM me if you like more info..
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Old 09-13-2019, 02:23 PM   #47
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I have to agree with tinchariot. All the advise he has given you is spot on and will free up the breathing of the engine without adding hotter running high performance parts. Basically he is optimizing the engine you have for as little money as possible.
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Old 09-13-2019, 02:42 PM   #48
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If you haven't already found this, here's a good source of information for old Onan generators: https://www.smokstak.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=1

Good luck with your Titan. I remember when these were new

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Originally Posted by 1970s Titans View Post
Here's the generator as well. It will take some work to get it running through. The whole choke is missing and there's been other weird repairs done to it that need fixing. Also, the base that it sits on is sagging down really far and is being held up by wires, so the generator actually sits about six inches lower then it's supposed to. I need to fix this right away because I would hate for that thing to just plop out while I'm driving down the road.Attachment 257077
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Old 09-13-2019, 04:22 PM   #49
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Cylinder heads

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Originally Posted by crb478 View Post
I have to agree with tinchariot. All the advise he has given you is spot on and will free up the breathing of the engine without adding hotter running high performance parts. Basically he is optimizing the engine you have for as little money as possible.
Thanks for you supporting comment!
Here are some pic's of the different 318 heads..
orange #2843675
blue #4027593
last the #4323302
Big difference in combustion chamber sizes! Smaller is better! Can not beat the price from Rockauto ready to bolt on. Get all your parts from them, some are on close out and use the melling 40202 timing chain.
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Old 09-18-2019, 04:23 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ Silber View Post
Saw this RV at my mechanic today. 440cid dodge chasis.Attachment 260038
That's a late 1973 to 1978 Dodge Travco 270. Those came with an M500 chassis and hydro boost brakes. Travco's were top of the line back then.
1969 to early 73 270's had single headlights up high.
1968 and older 270's had quad headlights up high.
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Old 09-18-2019, 05:33 PM   #51
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I went out on a drive to the gas station yesterday. The Titan made it there back with no problems what so ever! It was raining pretty hard that day, so I also installed new wipers and they work great! It had I little trouble starting that day, I think just because it was so cold. But after I got the gas it fired up after about one second of me holding the key!

I tried posting a quick video of the wipers, but I couldn't get it to work for some reason. But here's a picture of them and my view from the gas station.Click image for larger version

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Old 09-19-2019, 01:35 PM   #52
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Looking good! That flat windshield sure make things easier if you ever need to replace it. Travco's are over $1500 per side and that's if you can even find them.
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Old 09-19-2019, 07:48 PM   #53
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Looking good! That flat windshield sure make things easier if you ever need to replace it. Travco's are over $1500 per side and that's if you can even find them.
Thanks! I'm still just gonna pray that I never have to replace that windshield though. I imagine it would be extremely expensive.
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Old 09-19-2019, 11:10 PM   #54
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I went on another test drive today. This time it was just to my grandparents house. But the Titan still made it there and back with zero issues! And once that thing is warm it will start up in about a second! Also, since their driveway is more open then mine, I was finally able to get clear pictures of the Titan from all angles.Click image for larger version

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Old 09-20-2019, 11:30 PM   #55
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I finally re installed the sun visors and mirror today. The visors were a lot more work then they should have been. The wood underneath the vinyl was crumbling due to all the years of the visors being tugged on, and slight water damage. I ended up just shoving new little pieces of wood through the holes in the vinyl, then screwing the visors into that, and turned out surprisingly well!Click image for larger version

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Old 09-22-2019, 02:30 PM   #56
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Yesterday I FINALLY got my headlights working! Now I just need to get the clearance lights on top working and the Titan will be 100% legal. The only problem is that I can't figure out what's wrong with the clearance lights. I know for a fact that the fuse is good, and most of them have decent bulbs, so what else could it be? There is some rust on the contacts where the bulbs go in, but I don't think that's the real problem here. I'm gonna try cleaning those and maybe getting new bulbs, and if that doesn't work then who knows?
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