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Old 01-16-2017, 06:58 AM   #15
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We have found that the solid color cushion covers tend to make the use/dirt stand out a bit more than the multi color fabric. I too have a 98 Itasca, and have remodeled it several times since the time I bought it brand new. I would remove the stickers as soon as possible so they leave as faint silohette as possible. Heat gun, carb cleaner and a plastic scraper work the best. I ordered mine with out them.






The TV that I used fit into my box so I just remade the box face the fit it. My FIL made "oak brackets" lined with foam to mount his on the existing box, one cabinet door is not usable. He made spacers to fill the area below the TV and above it wrapped in upolstry material matching his cushions.







While I did all of the changes to suspension that you have done I also added an overload spring to the front of my "chevy" chassis with coil springs. I've made so many custom changes to mine over the last 18 years that I can't even remember them all.
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:10 AM   #16
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Planning on lots of scotchgard for the tan cushions. No kids or pets helps too.
Sticker are coming off this summer. My GF has volunteered to do it if she can pick replacement graphics Fortunately they're not cracked, so hoping they come off intact.
As for suspension, I'll get a few miles on it and decide what I want to do. Air or sumo springs look pretty easy to install. But not sure if rear trac bar is available for my 98. Might have to make one if I want it.
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:34 AM   #17
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I replaced my front "anti-sway bar" with a larger one. Air bags all around but the fronts are the only ones that make a difference unless I'm towing my 5k lb boat. Replaced the steering damper, Poly bushings like you. I stayed with the stock exhaust manifolds because the gaskets on a 454 tend to "wear out" and have to be replaced every 100k or so. Stainless steel gaskets are $70 for a pair. Had to go through a set of Felpro's to figure it out. I don't see any AIR injectors? are they on the top of the engine? I thought they stopped installing those in the late 80's? Could just be my "smoggy memory". Mine came with a 40 gallon gas tank so I installed a 2nd tank and moved the spare tire to the back bumper with a continental kit that I made myself. If you decide to go with the LED "brake" lights, to help keep the temp down on your head light switch, I'd suggest 2 things. One use high amp relays, one for the head lights and one for the running lights. Head light switch tends to overhea and quit working. I'm sure you already know that if you use LED's on the turn signals that if you leave the front turn light bulbs undisturbed, then you won't have to add a resistor to your turn signal circuit. If you don't already have a TV antenna indicator "up" light I'd recommend one. It has save my behind several times. common merc switches will work just fine. Seems like there is a wire for it in the existing wiring harness, again a "smoggy memory"..


Lastly, throw out the gen set, put in extra batts using the gen set wiring and location. Add at least 200 watts of solar panels, 400 watts is better if you boondock regularly. Stick with 12v batts, the 6v units are old tech and there is always problems with the following batts. If you paint your roof, which I would recommend, be sure to pant your AC cover too, it will last longer.
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:43 AM   #18
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Put a powered Fantastic vent cover over the ceiling vent in the bedroom, and just plain ones on the rest of the vents. Wire the powered one through the AC ducts to the light circuit. Allows for ventilation on rainy days and prevents black mold build up in the cabinets. I used a computer fan in my bathroom to aid in shower steam removal, it is 1/3 the noise of the OEM fans and use less power too. I replaced the bedroom vent cap with a metal one because the light always seems to hit you right in the eyes, then get a couple of the vent fleece vent insulators from CW to help with the AC and Heat issues. Buy a ceramic electric heater, it will keep your nights less noisy and heat your entire coach.
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:46 AM   #19
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One of the first things I did was to replace the mini blinds with vinyl roller shades. What a diff in the inside temp and now could dark up the place for our trip to Alaska that stays light 24 hours a day.
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:53 AM   #20
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Thanks for the info on the headlight switch. I've got some other wiring to attack, TCC lockup, fans, so I'll add that.
Air injection was put on the Ford F53 (460) till late 90s, only early 90s on CA that added a MAF. Funny thing is that without a catalytic converter the AIR on these vehicle only helps heat up the O2 sensor if you start driving before the engine temp is up. That's all.....
Gen only has 400hrs and it's an 1800rpm gas unit. I really like it for the few occasions we need it.
The antenna is on the departure checklist, but if the wiring is there, it sounds easy to add.
Roof was recently sealed and painted, but not sure on the AC covers, will check into it.
Oh yeah, already got the electric heater.
The tub is on the opposite side of the coach, so not likely I'll be adding a vent there. I'll look into the Fantastic, that one is new to me.
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:32 AM   #21
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Getting a rig in that nice of a condition is really cool. If you do the headers, please do a full work up on that so people like me who face this task soon can get some pointers.
I thought the E4OD already had the deep pan? The roof AC and vent covers definitely benefit from a coating to keep the plastic from getting brittle and breaking up.


Good Travels .....
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Old 01-16-2017, 09:31 AM   #22
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I wanted a pan with a drain. Firm believer in frequent trans changes in heavy tow rigs.
Will do on the exhaust. The Banks would be nice but price is just too high for me.

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Getting a rig in that nice of a condition is really cool. If you do the headers, please do a full work up on that so people like me who face this task soon can get some pointers.
I thought the E4OD already had the deep pan? The roof AC and vent covers definitely benefit from a coating to keep the plastic from getting brittle and breaking up.


Good Travels .....
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Old 01-17-2017, 07:29 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garys 68 View Post
I wanted a pan with a drain. Firm believer in frequent trans changes in heavy tow rigs.
Will do on the exhaust. The Banks would be nice but price is just too high for me.

Strange, chevy''s came with a drain on the tranny pan. I do mine every 25k, then every other change I do the filter. I have 133k on mine now. By the way, change engine oil ever 5k regardless of time. More often is just a waste of oil.

As far as the electric add on fans go. I have found that the existing mechanical thermostatic fan clutchs on all moho's are weak to terrible. Even with my 18 inch electric fan I had troubles keeping it cool. I went through 3 fan clutches from napa and autozone before I got lucky and got one that works from autozone. I combined that with a 180 degree coolant thermostat and what a great thing, it runs at 192 degrees. I've noticed that the electric fan actually seems to cool the fan clutch so it disengages and the engine heats up except when idling in traffic with the AC on. Then it helps move the air to the mechanical fan. I have the fan on a dash switch so I can control it better. Now it is true, that when the mech fan clutch kicks in it does sound like a small Cessna winding up for take off, but it is good to hear and see the temp drop.

May I suggest that you install a mechanical trans temp sensor as well as a mechanical coolant sensor, well worth the money and hassle. As far as the Torque convertor lockup, they make several re-programmers for these ECM's. They can change the shift points, lockup timing and engine characteristics. I bought one when my coach was new and have never regretted it. On my chevy, the original engine programming is about the best mpg that I can get, but the tranny shift points and lock programming were really sucky.

Lastly, I have found, that sensors on all engines after about 15 years or so, tend to start to fail. Every time I'd hook my tech2 meter up to mine I'd find a another sensor failed. I'd just go through and replace all of them, it is like the have a "shelf life" of 15 years or so. It is a time thing, rather than a mileage thing. It will reduce the strain in the "mechanical drive train" and make the whole set up last longer.
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Old 01-17-2017, 07:54 AM   #24
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Lastly, for those of you that are still back in the "Carburator age" I'd buy a code reader that will read the 02 sensors, short term fuel trim and long term fuel trim. For a couple of buck extra they will have a mis-fire set too. There are many videos on Utube that explain how to use the code readers and what the stats that you are looking at mean. Time to add to the list to moho tool's that I recommend an RV'er buy.


1. battery load meter $30 HF
2. Manometer (after gas regulator propane gas pressure tester) $60
3. Engine code reader $250 Best ones are computer programs for your laptop that include the OB2 hook up. There are many brands but this is one that I like, link: https://www.autoenginuity.com/wordpr...ucts/scantool/


Yes, I know what you carbheads are thinking, I can't do that!!! ahhh... But if you have managed to get to this page you can use this software and scantool....


My FIL was a carbhead, but when showed him how this stuff worked, he was amazed and said "that looks as fun as CB'ing or amateur radio. He was by best friend as well as my FIL, he passed before he got to get into very far. I do miss him.


So, there you have it garys 68 a "must have tool list" for going on the road. I full timed for 7 years and found that these tools kept me out of the local garages and my extra change in my pocket. But I have to tell you, when you are 1/2 to Alaska and the bears are scratching at your door, if you have these tools, you will be thanking me...... "Oh, lonfu you are truly a knowledgeable moho god!!!"


Don't forget the 18" expand to 34" 1/2 inch breaker bar to break the tire wheel nuts free......a bottle jack to fit under your rear axle when both rear tires are flat really helps out too!
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:06 AM   #25
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My 98 ford 460/E4OD is OBDI, so minimal reprogramming of trans or ecu is possible. I could put in a shift kit, but Banks sells a module that's a pretty easy hookup. That and the TCC lockup should do it for my needs.
Already have the trans temp gauge to install.
Did you go with an OEM Ford/GM/Chrysler electric fan or an aftermarket universal. My experience with the aftermarkets is that they don't move much air. Most don't pull even 10 amps. I'm using a Ford windstar on my 72 Olds restomod and it pulls over 40 amps, move A LOT of air.
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:15 AM   #26
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As for tools, my hobby is building 60s/70s restomods and old boats, so the entire tool kit, air tools, compressor, etc goes with.
I already have software for OBDII I use on my LS restomods, but not much use on this. The $20 OBDI reader and peak kV meter I already have is about all that's practical to use.
I was thinking about adding a wideband O2 sensor if I dive into some of the fuel pressure and timing mods popular with the ford truck group.
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Old 01-17-2017, 10:14 AM   #27
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Is your planned TCC switch anything more than a simple switch? I've seen a few folks do it online. Sometimes with a brake input, but never anything that had any gear or speed input.
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Old 01-17-2017, 11:38 AM   #28
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Plan is to have a 3 position switch. TCC lock in gears 1-4/Off/TCC lock in only 3 and 4.
Simply grounding the TCC wire results in 1-4lock.
By wiring the ground through a relay activated by the trans SS1 will result in it unlocking when it shifts down to 2nd or 1st.

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Is your planned TCC switch anything more than a simple switch? I've seen a few folks do it online. Sometimes with a brake input, but never anything that had any gear or speed input.
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