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11-26-2012, 12:28 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 25
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Also to add, I went and looked at the allure this weekend at Home Depot, and although I like the idea of it being water resitent and that it "floats" without much additional underlayment, I don't like the softness of the "wood" Plus homedepot happened to have a Black Friday sale on some pergo that my wife and I liked better. So we picked up some $.94 cherry pergo and will need to get some underlayment but I think we will like the real wood feel better.
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12-14-2012, 06:21 AM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 25
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Still currently on the patching and demo.. Work and not having a dedicated indoor spot to work on the camper has hindered my progress. When I do get the time on the weekends, I have been getting 1 full day in and then it rains on Sunday so I have not been able to pull the skins yet. Thinking about going and grabbing a gigantic tarp today and put over the whole thing to be able to pull the skins.
Questions that I have...
What is the easiest way to pull those darn staples out of the aluminum skins on the bottom of the camper?
What is the easiest way to replace individual 2x2 sections in the side wall? Or do I need to create a whole new side wall from the old template? Thinking about it now.. they might have been 1x2's on the wall.. should I think about replacing these all with 2x2's?
When attaching the wall pieces back in, is it easier just air stapling them to the current good pieces? This question also applies when adding the support pieces to the floor 2x2 joists, do I just air staple them together or try and brad them with a long brad?
Thanks again everyone.. hoping to have made lots of progress this weekend. Ive got 2 hi-lift jacks that will help me raise the back walls so I can replaces the joists this weekend!
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12-14-2012, 07:42 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 25
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Also, what type of butyl tape is good for the window seals? Can it be found at a Big Box Stores. And when looking at the corner seals on my camper, it has the hex head screws and not much sealant.. probably where a lot of the water came in. When closing it back up what would be the best approach there? I may need to take a picture also.
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12-14-2012, 11:26 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,812
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Restoration questions.
Iam not an expert but we did restore our 1990 25ft. Classic hilo. We bought our butyl tape from our RV dealer. You can also find it on line..Every trailer window must be taken out and have buty tape applied and recaulked. Check out my post 2-24-2012 1990 Classic restoration Before and after pictures. I would strongly suggest that you strip all the walls to the alum. skin. Then apply 3m Bondo(two part epoxy). This can be purchased at Autozone. It will give your interior skin a hard water proof coating. Use plenty of Lexel caulk,spray foam to weather proof. Use both inside and outside. We used 1inch foam,1/8 luan and 1/8 Georgia pacific vinyl paneling. Everything was glued with Heavy duty Liquid Nails(all three layers. The tubes were cheapest at Walmart. If you can save old paneling it is good to use it for a pattern. Our trailer had metal studs. Some pop Rivets and paneling nails were used in addition to HD liquid nails. PM me if you need further clarification on anything. Replace all screws with stainless steel screws. Lexell caulk can be bought at ACE hardwear or on line. It can be applied down to 40degrees. Read and follow all direction for the products I have mentioned. I think if I had to replace wood in MyRV I would stain all wood and put on a clear waterproofer. Not sure if HD liquid nails would stick to Thompsons water seal. The point is to not ever have to restore again due to water dammage. Best of luck!! You can do this.
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04-10-2013, 07:54 AM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 25
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I have not abandoned this thread or the project.. but got rather busy with life and work and weather. I was out of the country for 2 months from Dec to Feb finalizing an international adoption with my wife of our son. Glad to say we are done and he is home! Well he's been home since Feb! That and the weather not wanting to cooperate has put a lengthy damper on any work to be performed. I will add below the status and updates that have been done to the Camper since my last post though.. With placeholder for images that are on another computer. Thanks!
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04-10-2013, 07:55 AM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 25
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Placeholder for Floor demo and patch work
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04-10-2013, 08:03 AM
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#21
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 25
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Replaced the Floor Joists with new 2x2s after the floor completely rotted out and crumbled beneath me. There was quite a bit of rust holes that needed to be dealt with and fixed as well. Added insulation and new subfloor. This whole area will not be getting laminate but will get some type of treatment as it will be the under bed storage with side access for all the camping supplies. We will replace the old U shaped bench seats with a full queen size bed and add shelves above where the bunks are currently as we will not be using them as bunks or need the extra bunks to sleep. See progress pictures below
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04-10-2013, 08:12 AM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 25
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The back walls and side walls have significant rot damage from the old leak and needed to be replaced. Spent this week pulling the window and sheeting to gain access to the bad wood.. In doing so, the majority of it just fell off after the staples were pulled from being so rotten. I improved on the light support on the rear as well as added a few more vertical 2x2s
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04-10-2013, 08:14 AM
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#23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 25
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More progress showing the corners replaced
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04-10-2013, 08:30 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: May 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,682
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Your doing it the correct way nice job !!!!!
__________________
Mark Anderson - Nebo NC - western NC - RV Restoration tech - 9 Doggies - Outdoors person
1990 33ft Wilderness Cimarron 33X
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04-17-2013, 06:58 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: May 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,682
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Also to add make sure the uint is level when the wall are removed if it's leaning to the side it will rack and rear wall would be hard to line back up. Ask how I know that one....
__________________
Mark Anderson - Nebo NC - western NC - RV Restoration tech - 9 Doggies - Outdoors person
1990 33ft Wilderness Cimarron 33X
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04-18-2013, 05:31 AM
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#26
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Smoky Mountains
Posts: 46
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looking good man!
__________________
1977 Wilderness, usable for camping, ongoing project.
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09-16-2013, 09:43 AM
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#27
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 25
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Wow, its been quite a bit since I updated this.. I will post the rear completion pics later tonight, We have camped in it since and starting again tonight I'm going to be tearing down the inner ceiling to work on it some more.. Back at it again! Gotta get it ready to go camping again for Halloween
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09-19-2013, 05:12 AM
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#28
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Smoky Mountains
Posts: 46
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I plan to get into the front wood paneling of ours this winter when it isn't so darn hot but have been doing extensive hail damage repair and just about done with that, Painted new stripe colors and the whole street side before labor day and then we took it on a 3 day camp trip.
Look forward to seeing your pics
__________________
1977 Wilderness, usable for camping, ongoing project.
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