Community Forums

Piker · 08-20-2014, 06:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ahicks

Aluminum comes with varying degrees of "stiffness". The stuff used without backing is thicker, but what makes it able to be used without backing is the fact it's WAY stiffer! Unless you can find an economical source for it, I think it's going to be some pretty expensive stuff.....

You might check around an airport?

If we end up restoring this RV... I believe I will use the luan backer method, although I will not probably use luan, but rather a hardwood plywood. It really does make some nice looking panels, and since the RV is stored inside, I shouldn't have to worry too much about it rotting away any time soon. Even though using wood for this seems lame, there doesn't seem to be anything else affordable to put behind the aluminum...

I found a source for 4' wide aluminum coil .032" thick (same a what's on the rv now) in any length... $16.75 per linear foot. It's aircraft grade... guys use on the airstreams...

At least now I have a cost figure to go by... Not going to be cheap... but still cheaper than another RV.

-cheers

ahicks · 08-20-2014, 06:43 AM

What if the alum. were laminated to fiberglass/filon, or whatever the stuff is, that they sell at Lowes/Home Depot for showers in 4x8 sheets? It's smooth on one side, and like a pebble grain on the other?

That might make it stiff enough to hold it's shape and keep it flat, and it would surely be more resistant to the rot any kind of wood you used.

Careful planning would allow it to be cut to lengths that would have joints falling on vertical ribs?

wblynch · 08-20-2014, 07:38 AM

You could also seal the exposed side of luan with verathane, no?

Piker · 08-20-2014, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wblynch

You could also seal the exposed side of luan with verathane, no?

Yep... was thinking this myself. It wouldn't be full proof, but it should help.

I'm not sure about the stuff at lowes... but I would have to be careful to make sure it bonded well with the adhesive. I don't think it would be as rigid?

good ideas... thanks.

-cheers

TQ60 · 08-20-2014, 08:56 AM

Look into masonite

Stiff as all get out and not that expensive.

Also consider how ends butt as that may allow a vertical line.

Not sure if the seam could be taped like drywall or if a lamination process to insure flatness.

No real clue here but just tossing thoughts out.

Piker · 08-20-2014, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TQ60

Look into masonite

Stiff as all get out and not that expensive.

Also consider how ends butt as that may allow a vertical line.

Not sure if the seam could be taped like drywall or if a lamination process to insure flatness.

No real clue here but just tossing thoughts out.

Yes, I was also thinking about that... the vertical lines you would get with using 1 thickness of backing. The rv did have a vertical line in one area from that, and it didn't look too bad. Might not be a big deal.

-cheers

ahicks · 08-20-2014, 04:10 PM

Re: vertical seam, that's what I was talking about earlier. Make sure those vertical seams fall on a vertical rib. Easily done by adjusting the length of your backing material, whatever you decide on.

rickf · 08-21-2014, 08:03 AM

If you decide to go with any form of wood there is an outfit in Washington State called Rot Doctor. They have some stuff called CPES that is a wood based epoxy resin that has the consistency of diesel fuel. You brush this on the wood, especially the edges and it seals the wood against moisture. Good stuff, I have used it for years on boats.

Rick

Piker · 08-21-2014, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rickf

If you decide to go with any form of wood there is an outfit in Washington State called Rot Doctor. They have some stuff called CPES that is a wood based epoxy resin that has the consistency of diesel fuel. You brush this on the wood, especially the edges and it seals the wood against moisture. Good stuff, I have used it for years on boats.

Rick

Good tip... i assume it's safe to use near aluminum? Traditional pressure treating chemicals can cause aluminum to corrode... or so I have been told.

-cheers

kustom · 08-22-2014, 08:27 AM

why not clean up your alum sideing rough up the back side and add a few
layers of fiberglass mat

Piker · 08-22-2014, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kustom

why not clean up your alum sideing rough up the back side and add a few
layers of fiberglass mat

I've actually considered trying to restore the old aluminum. The luan seems to fall right off the back of it, leaving only a thin layer of glue and some wood splinters.

There's actually a ton of corrosion though on the backside... far worse than anything that's visible on the exterior. I could probably grind out the corrosion, then fiberglass it, but that's gonna be far more work than just putting on new aluminum. Theoretically, I could work a few more hours at the day job to pay for the new aluminum, and be many many hours ahead of trying to repair the old aluminum. I dunno... I'll have to think about it. The two upper pieces of aluminum are in a lot better shape than the wider, lower sections... maybe it's worth a shot just to see how it turns out. Maybe it's not as much work as I think it will be,.

-cheers

Piker · 08-23-2014, 07:18 PM

I messed around with my old aluminum today for a little bit... it's definitely not worth the effort to try and salvage it. The areas that had oxidation between the aluminum and the luan are all bubbled up, and would require lots of body work once I had the new luan glued up. On top of that the contact cement is attached to the aluminum with great vigor... it would take days to remove it all...

So, now I just have to figure out whether I use new Filon or new Aluminum. I can get filon wide enough to make a single panel for each side, thereby eliminating the seam in the center. Problem is, I don't think a panel that size is going to be easy to handle without damaging.

I could cut the filon and make the walls out of 2 separate panels like they are now...

Or I could buy Aluminum and make 2 separate panels too. The aluminum only comes in 4' widths, so there would be quite a bit of waste making the top panels... and added expense.

I'm looking at about $2k for aluminum... and $1600 for filon. Not sure which would be better. I can't buy either one right now, so at this point, it doesn't really matter... just thinking ahead.

-cheers

WILDEBILL308 · 09-22-2014, 01:44 PM

Try a can of the non expanding foam you get at home depot. That stuff sticks like crazy. Hada friend use it to glue all his rigid insulation to the roof of his gurage.
Bill

ahicks · 09-22-2014, 02:31 PM

I would go with the Filon if for no other reason than the handling perspective. If you were to have a minor issue with Filon, no big deal. With alum. you'll have a reminder (crease) that will haunt you forever....