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Old 06-09-2022, 10:09 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by 370Dancer View Post
I'm shooting for using the WYZE Wifi enabled unit, primarily so I can monitor and set temps from afar. The unit is a standard 24vac one, and I picked up a dc to dc converter to power it from the existing 12v feed to the thermostat. The display works just fine on 24vdc. It's probably rectifying it anyways. The question, I guess would be whether the existing relays (assuming they are 12v switching 120vAC) would balk at being fed 24v or something near that. I could of course use a voltage divider on the feed lines to get em back to 12, but I'm sure that would be very inefficient over the long haul. I have yet to pull the controller box, and see who's hooking up to whom. I do have good access to the circuit board on the thermostat for testing voltages. Just have to find the time. Most of the big projects are over, so I might get some breathing room over the next month or so. As promised, I will document this so others can see a path.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wyze-7-D...988059#overlay
Well you can get relays that match whatever voltage you are working with. I'm intrigued that you are able to make it work on 12VDC, does that thermostat have a battery backup? It is entirely possible that you are running off the batteries if so. It would be very unusual to find a device that is AC/DC agnostic. I'm not sure that is even possible.

In my case I'm powering it with an AC source bringing 120 down to 24VAC b/c I was unable to find an (affordable) supply to simply invert from 12 to 24. I'm using the Honeywell T9 thermostat with additional sensors - and I can control this from anywhere. The only thing I don't have is control of the fan speed, which I solved by using a small round mechanical switch with a central off position - so that I can manually select high or low fan speed. I'm pretty happy with that setup and it works well with my onboard wireless network.
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Old 06-11-2022, 11:50 AM   #30
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I saw a Youtube somewhere where the guy used a step up circuit to get the Household unit to run.
My theory, is that the Wyze brains and display do not run off of 24vac, but it has to use that for a household situation. I think that 24vac gets rectified to dc to drive the thermostat. The board is adjustable, and it will drive the Wyze from about 20v up.
I bought 3 of those on Amazon. So the real question is does the Wyze just switch whatever is on the red to Y for A/C, and the fan? I get that the battery operated ones would make this simpler, but I got the Wyze before I found out that Honeywell had an internet accessible one. Might be a week or two before I can get back on this.
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Old 06-11-2022, 07:33 PM   #31
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Ok, found my link to the information that is pushing me this way.
It's 55 posts long, started in 2020, and the last post was 19 days ago.
the last post in the thread is exactly what I am asking now. Can I run the 24vdc to RC, and then tie R to 12vdc, and just run it?
https://forums.wyzecam.com/t/camper-...rmostat/121453

Turns out I'll have some time tomorrow at the park to do some measurements, etc.
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Old 06-12-2022, 10:39 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 370Dancer View Post
Ok, found my link to the information that is pushing me this way.
It's 55 posts long, started in 2020, and the last post was 19 days ago.
the last post in the thread is exactly what I am asking now. Can I run the 24vdc to RC, and then tie R to 12vdc, and just run it?
https://forums.wyzecam.com/t/camper-...rmostat/121453

Turns out I'll have some time tomorrow at the park to do some measurements, etc.
You have a misprint or a misunderstanding of voltage in that post. You cannot cross connect 12 volts DC and 24 volts DC on the same circuit, it will short things out. You also do not have a 24 volt source on the RV unless you are talking about some converter you have added. The 24VDC cannot be connected to any other circuits in the RV or bad things will happen. Connecting that 24VDC to the main 12VDC from the RV will cause bad things in all the other devices in the RV.

The thermostats need ALTERNATING CURRENT not Direct Current. These are also incompatible on the same wires.

The C wire is the common wire, usually referred to as neutral in AC installations. In heating systems, the C wire tends to be the common source rather than the neutral, but since it is alternating current that is less important. The second 24VAC power lead is usually on the RC wire. When the thermostat switches things, it sends that 24VAC through the Y or the G wires for the compressor and fan - and expects that there is a relay on the other end of those connections, which the other terminal of the relay links back to a common - THE SAME C WIRE. This creates a closed circuit and things work.

Everything has to be matching specs: 24VAC. Direct current is OK too IF supported by the thermostat (which as I said is an odd discovery and not the usual result) but in all cases they have to be isolated from the RV systems and from the high voltage. The relay is a low voltage actuated switch that closes a high voltage connection via electromagnet. The thermostat has to be protected from receiving the 120VAC or again - bad things will happen.
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Old 06-12-2022, 07:03 PM   #33
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Iím tracking. Just me thinking out loud too much. I have a grasp on ac vs. dc.
I have personally fired up and programmed the Wyze, using a 12vdc source with the step up circuit to 20+Vdc. I also have a 24vac wall wart should I decide to go that route.
Iíll keep my thoughts to myself until I determine a clear path (if there is one)
Thanks for your explanation
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Old 06-12-2022, 11:52 PM   #34
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Think out loud all you want - But part of the reason I haven't written up a complete how-to on the wiring of a thermostat or a solar system or an inverter, is that I only know what *I* have set up, and don't want someone to screw up their coach trying to follow me. That's why I try to ensure the wiring information if provided, is accurate if incomplete so people would HAVE to have some knowledge to complete the project correctly.
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Old 07-26-2022, 04:51 PM   #35
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I've developed a new strategy based on some newly available technology which will not only do what I wanted, but improves the whole system in good ways.
More to come.......
Turns out my Duo-Therm Brisk I system was an in-between "Electronic" design, and doesn't use 12v at the thermostat. More like 5v. I'll move my discussion about this to another thread on the forum that is more targeted to this subject.
Meanwhile the old girl is looking pretty good inside. Now the next tackle is prettying up the exterior. Faded and cracking multi line decal runs around the whole unit. Thinking about removing it. On fiberglass, it's always been a heat gun, patience, and a sharp blade. Some tactic for aluminum?
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Old 08-19-2022, 11:17 AM   #36
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Rear air fan motor failed, so the new plan was to convert to RecPro/Houghton. AC3800, 15K with a heat pump for 1300.00 delivered. Can't beat that.
It is at least 2x quieter than the Dometic Brisk. IR Control, so instead of the Wyze wall thermostat, I am monitoring and controlling it remotely via a Switchbot hub mini, which features an IR blaster built in. Rented a scissor lift from Home Depot to do the heavy lifting. Completely repaired the Dometic unit with new fan motor, blades, and repairs to the controller board, and will be putting it and the thermostat up for sale.
I love the local dump on the new system for cooling down the galley when needed. (or cooling me off after working on the dock in August!)

I'll do the forward A/C when it gets cooler.
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Old 10-05-2022, 06:29 PM   #37
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Ian gave it a shot

Through the eye of the storm with no appreciable damage. 1/2 mile from Jim Cantore doing his eyewall dance in the parking garage downtown. I lost one piece of side trim on the slide out roof. Oh, and my shed exploded, but left all the contents in place that wasn't on a wall. Zero surge. That would have ended the story for this old lady.
In Bradenton, we got the reverse surge again (like Irma).
Hard to sink a boat in these conditions......
Me lucky this time.
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Old 10-10-2022, 01:25 PM   #38
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I have a 1989 HR 5th wheel aluma lite xl I believe is 28ft there isn't any wiring diagrams as far as I know. I say this because I worked for WESTERN RV and know that they had boards they used to make the wiring harness with different set for each model and length and know there wasn't anything other then 2 print 1 for the set up guy and 1 for R and D but if You find some where that has floor plans please let me know nada really doesn't tell much
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Old 10-16-2022, 05:58 AM   #39
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I've scoured all of my sources, and there just isn't any real documentation, like you see on later model rigs. In mine, 110v enters on the driver's side rear, and goes to a breaker panel under the stove. 110 wiring exits the panel and is distributed to various outlets throughout the rig.
12V is sourced at the converter on the passenger side front basement locker, with support from a 12v battery in the front compartment under the bedroom overhang. Main 12v is then run to a distribution block that is in the locker over the fridge cavity.

One change I am making is to move the refrigerator from the current outlet, which is on the GFI circuit to its own, using the washer/dryer circuit, which is not present in this rig. I have had the GFI trip when something outside gets wet (like an extension cord exposed to rain). Not good for the contents of the fridge.

So, in short, you'll have to trace out what you want to work on. A signal generator and receiver is invaluable for isolating circuits.
https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Ge...s%2C114&sr=8-4
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Old 11-04-2022, 09:52 PM   #40
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I have a 1992 Aluma-Lite 5th wheel. I have all the literature that came with the trailer new. The bad news is, there is no wiring diagram in the owners manual, or any of the other literature.
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Old 11-29-2022, 08:50 PM   #41
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As previously stated, I have decades of experience with marine systems, so I am good from a wiring standpoint. If you have electronic versions of your information, that would be much appreciated. I do have my original owner's factory sheet, and other build items.
I am removing both working Dometic units in favor of the RecPro 3800's, so if anyone has an appetite for the originals, let me know. No shipping will be entertained. Local pickup only. Not only do they work great, but I will include a retrofit for a standard wifi enabled system based on Honeywell Thermostats. Or, any thermostat for that matter.
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