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Ditr · 07-25-2017, 02:20 PM

Hello all, feeling desperate so hoping for some quidance.

We have a 1987 Travel Master with a 878eg2 Norcold.
Fridge was running great, on both electric and LP. We were doing some load testing on the Gen so fridge was switched to DC for bout 20". When we went to switched back to LP, 3 amp fuse popped.

After replacing the fuse, and then everytime we switched it to LP, the 3 amp fuse blows. Not electric side tho. That being said, once the 3 amp blows, the DC side wont run unless we replace w/ a new 3 amp fuse.

I removed the circuit board on front of fridge and cleaned all connections and 2 switches. Not that it's connect but just for info, I've throughly cleaned the burner/orifice and prior to 3 amp popping, had a very nice strong blue flame.

I cant tell if the thermocouple is working cuz cant get power to it. I cant check the burner igniter because of the same reason. Cant get past that 3 amp popping.

I've not looked into the gray box on the back of the fridge cuz not sure what I'd be looking for.

Crazy thing about this issue is that the electric will run fine when switched to DC or Gen, and doesn't blow the 5 amp. The freezer is about 8 degrees right now after 10 hrs without the upper fans being on and the fridge is empty.

Wall 110v is good, all battery connections are good.

Son was told by another person to test the gas solenoid. He applied 12v to the gas solenoid. He said when he did that, that it opened. I didn't watch how he did it so not quite sure how he accomplished it so he might've done it wrong.

If the solenoid opened, what does that mean? Is it good or is it bad?

Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Local service places wont even touch our 30 yr old rig so we have learned over the many years to service it ourselves but this one has us stumped.

We're supposed to leave in 4 days and I'd really like to have fridge on LP to avoid having to run the Gen beings it is SOOOOOO loud so will try about anything.

TIA :-)

Skip426 · 07-25-2017, 06:24 PM

If he fed , un-fused 12 volts to the solenoid , it might work , did he try it with a fused power source.
Did the three amp fuse , not blow , with the fridge on propane and the solenoid disconnected?
I'll see if there is an online source for an owners manual with trouble shooting, for that model of fridge; then I'll get back to post again.

Skip426 · 07-25-2017, 10:38 PM

No luck finding a free manual for the model 878eg2 , but info from newer units , lists the draw on the system in LP mode at 0.50 amp for the igniter and 0.146 amp for the gas solenoid so a 3 amp control fuse approx five times the expected peek draw makes sense.
I'm still looking for a wiring schematic to see if any other loads are on that circuit.

Old-Biscuit · 07-25-2017, 11:27 PM

Unplug the following

Cable from control module to eyebrow'
Ignition module cable to spark electrode
Ignition cable to Sense Electrode
Thermistor leads
Any other cables that can be unplugged from circuit board

Then with 12V DC available and connected....new 3A DC fuse in place
Plug one cable/lead in at a time

J4 and J5 12V DC (J4 s/b NEG---J5 s/b POS)

3A fuse blows.which cable/lead ???

OR go thru this DC system testing

Check 12V DC as outlined in this manual (for 868 series but s/b same for 878 testing)
Page 15
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/8682.pdf

IF......IF you find you need a new circuit board
61602722 2-way refrigerator control board DE Board #61602722 DE

Post back what you find.......
Parts are available but limited
http://www.sahararv.com/fckimages/pd...ts_Norcold.pdf