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Old 05-28-2020, 07:31 PM   #1
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Oil for my generator

I have a onan gas generator. Model NHE..Doing a full major tune up and oil and filter change..No Cummins dealership close but I still need oil..have 3 parts stores and wal Mart..was thinking of buying WalMarts oil called Supertech..it comes in 30wt and 15x40wt..what's your thoughts on using this oil in my generator?
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Old 05-28-2020, 08:13 PM   #2
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use the correct SAE Oil. , just to be safe,,SAE30 or 15W-40 oil.
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Old 05-28-2020, 08:20 PM   #3
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I wouldn't trust Walmart as far as I could throw one of their stores. They went to congress and attempted a payoff to be allowed to call a synthetic oil blend 'Fully Synthetic' for reasons that are obvious. Wasn't permitted then, but that should tell you something.

So maybe buy from someone with a bit more integrity. Napa or a farm store carrying your national brands. Anyway, if you change it more often, you're better off. And it's 30 or 15 WINTER. The W doesn't mean Weight as in Wgt but Winter. Fun with oil!

Recommendation of the manufacturer should be given some weight as they've been making the Onan brand for 1/2 century or more. I think for mine, they recommend 15W. But if you think you need a multigrade type, go for it, but change it regularly. "A single grade oil like 15W or SAE 40 oil has a high viscosity when cold and a lower viscosity when hot."
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Old 05-28-2020, 08:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrodharley View Post
I have a onan gas generator. Model NHE..Doing a full major tune up and oil and filter change..No Cummins dealership close but I still need oil..have 3 parts stores and wal Mart..was thinking of buying WalMarts oil called Supertech..it comes in 30wt and 15x40wt..what's your thoughts on using this oil in my generator?
Go to Amazon.com and look for 15-40 synthetic oil. Doing it once a year should not set you back too much. You didn't say which size generator you have.
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Old 05-28-2020, 09:38 PM   #5
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Delco diesel oil...you have an old school motor built to last several lifetimes. That oil will clean a lot of deposits and be far and above the curve to lubricate the design.
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Old 05-29-2020, 05:49 AM   #6
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I just changed the oil and filters in my 5500 gas generator. I used Walmart 10w30, same as I used in the F53 V10.
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Old 05-31-2020, 08:05 PM   #7
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I use 30w in our Onan 7000, don’t get to hung up on brands, if you have an hour meter for the generator, follow what the manual recommends for oil & filter changes.
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Old 05-31-2020, 10:09 PM   #8
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Used Super Tech oil in one of my motorcycles and my wife's car for years. If it meets the specs, why not?

Everyone has their own preference on oil - hence "The dreaded oil thread." Every single vehicle forum has them and they can get heated. In my opinion it doesn't matter what oil you use as long as it meets the required specs. What IS important, is changing it at the required time or miles.
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Old 06-01-2020, 08:18 AM   #9
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Agree with Astrn if the oil meets the SAE specs it doesn't matter where it comes form.
That being said I am not a fan of Wal-Mart in general and wouldn't give them my money except in an emergency, so there's that.
Also, depending on the motorcycle, I wouldn't use automotive engine oil in a bike. If the MC engine shares oil with the crank and the clutch, the friction modifiers in auto oil will leave deposits on the clutch plates and cause slippage. Off topic from a generator but down the rabbit hole for any good oil thread.
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Old 06-01-2020, 10:17 AM   #10
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Agree with Astrn if the oil meets the SAE specs it doesn't matter where it comes form.
That being said I am not a fan of Wal-Mart in general and wouldn't give them my money except in an emergency, so there's that.
Also, depending on the motorcycle, I wouldn't use automotive engine oil in a bike. If the MC engine shares oil with the crank and the clutch, the friction modifiers in auto oil will leave deposits on the clutch plates and cause slippage. Off topic from a generator but down the rabbit hole for any good oil thread.
Down the rabbit hole: Bingo we have a winner
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Old 06-01-2020, 04:30 PM   #11
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Though I use SuperTech for certain things, it's not my first choice. It's produced by Warren oil. They make bare minimum bottom rung oil. Technically making making minimum specification doesn't mean high quality. It's not actually bad or anything, if it suits your purposes, use it.

I can't help but wonder at folks who will pay over a hundred grand for a vehicle and then want the cheapest maintenance items. Just in general. Would you put SuperTech oil in a 100K Ferrari?

But anyway, multigrade oils are really for engines that have to stop and start a lot. If you're doing it right, you will start your generator and let it run for hours. So though you can use multigrade, you don't actually need it. A 30 weight does well. Folks in hotter climates with gensets that aren't new anymore might like to step up to 20W/50.

Mention was made of diesel oil. Want to make every petroleum engineer ever groan and roll his eyes? Mention how you put diesel oil in a gasoline engine. On purpose. That said,it so happens the same wet clutch additives many "unified" motorcvcles need in their engine oil happen to be present in many diesel oils. Many such motorcycles only hold maybe two quarts so the cost savings of buying diesel oil over that of actual motorcycle oil equals "my God, how cheap ARE you?"

WalMart? Local to me WalMart has Mobil One synthetic on sale for $23 for a five quart jug. That's some of the best synthetic oil on the planet for less than many parts stores sell regular conventional oil for. That said, I'm not sure I'd run it in a generator. Sometimes when you change an engine from regular oil to synthetic it leaks. Not a chance I'd care to take on a generator. Some like to say that's an old wive's tale about swapping oils. Most of the time it isn't a problem, synthetic or not, mix of both, no matter. Other times the Mitsubishi in my driveway right now had over a 100K miles of (probably) sporadic changes of cheap oil. I felt sorry for it and gave it Mobil 1. It went from a clean and dry engine to pouring oil from about six different locations at once. Still doing it as I haven't had great urge to replace the gaskets and seals just yet. Four other high mileage vehicles in the driveway are happy enough with Mobil 1. I've been thinking of treating the RV to M1 but haven't quite gotten brave enough yet. It doesn't leak a drop as it is.

I really agree with the rule of thumb earlier though. Run whatever, as long as you change the oil reasonably often odds are very good it will be fine.
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Old 06-01-2020, 04:45 PM   #12
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Thanks for the useful info GypsyR. And I agree with your statements.

Interesting story there at the end too, and gives me pause.

But then I remember that every vehicle I've ever owned including lawn mowers the first oil change I gave it was a change to synthetic oil. Most of them I know per the PO that they only had dino oil in them previously.

The point is that they never sprung leaks on me immediately afterwards. Not that I ever noticed. Certainly not as bad as your Mitsi seemed to be. Maybe it was because the dino oil was just run of the mill standard type and the synthetic was a detergent type?
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Old 06-01-2020, 06:46 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GypsyR View Post
Though I use SuperTech for certain things, it's not my first choice. It's produced by Warren oil. They make bare minimum bottom rung oil. Technically making making minimum specification doesn't mean high quality. It's not actually bad or anything, if it suits your purposes, use it.

I can't help but wonder at folks who will pay over a hundred grand for a vehicle and then want the cheapest maintenance items. Just in general. Would you put SuperTech oil in a 100K Ferrari?

But anyway, multigrade oils are really for engines that have to stop and start a lot. If you're doing it right, you will start your generator and let it run for hours. So though you can use multigrade, you don't actually need it. A 30 weight does well. Folks in hotter climates with gensets that aren't new anymore might like to step up to 20W/50.

Mention was made of diesel oil. Want to make every petroleum engineer ever groan and roll his eyes? Mention how you put diesel oil in a gasoline engine. On purpose. That said,it so happens the same wet clutch additives many "unified" motorcvcles need in their engine oil happen to be present in many diesel oils. Many such motorcycles only hold maybe two quarts so the cost savings of buying diesel oil over that of actual motorcycle oil equals "my God, how cheap ARE you?"

WalMart? Local to me WalMart has Mobil One synthetic on sale for $23 for a five quart jug. That's some of the best synthetic oil on the planet for less than many parts stores sell regular conventional oil for. That said, I'm not sure I'd run it in a generator. Sometimes when you change an engine from regular oil to synthetic it leaks. Not a chance I'd care to take on a generator. Some like to say that's an old wive's tale about swapping oils. Most of the time it isn't a problem, synthetic or not, mix of both, no matter. Other times the Mitsubishi in my driveway right now had over a 100K miles of (probably) sporadic changes of cheap oil. I felt sorry for it and gave it Mobil 1. It went from a clean and dry engine to pouring oil from about six different locations at once. Still doing it as I haven't had great urge to replace the gaskets and seals just yet. Four other high mileage vehicles in the driveway are happy enough with Mobil 1. I've been thinking of treating the RV to M1 but haven't quite gotten brave enough yet. It doesn't leak a drop as it is.

I really agree with the rule of thumb earlier though. Run whatever, as long as you change the oil reasonably often odds are very good it will be fine.
Big world out there..Ive been at this for a long time.

https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...4dUDCAw&uact=5

And there is the zinc issue for older engines...

https://www.chevelles.com/forums/18-...cj-4-zddp.html


https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...4dUDCAw&uact=5
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Old 06-01-2020, 08:12 PM   #14
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The point is that they never sprung leaks on me immediately afterwards. Not that I ever noticed. Certainly not as bad as your Mitsi seemed to be. Maybe it was because the dino oil was just run of the mill standard type and the synthetic was a detergent type?
About the only non-detergent oil out there these days is specialty stuff like for airplanes and things. But I can't say I know the whys and hows, there are a few others out that have experienced the same issue. All we've come up with that the leakers have in common was that they were all high mileage and their maintenance history tended to be pretty suspect. I've changed a number of other vehicles over with minimal issues. One or two that leaked a bit but they could have been leaking some what already or just coincidence. The Mitsubishi went from clean and dry to barfing oil everywhere within one drive cycle. The gaskets and seals I have replaced so far are sealing just fine.

I have hobby cars I would think nothing of yanking the engines out of for some fresh gaskets or whatever but not a situation I'd want to be in with my generator. I don't find mine entertaining to work on. But judging by the membership at smokstak.com , there are people that do enjoy such though. I suspect them to be a pretty small minority though. Most of us just want them to work when we want them to and require as little attention as possible.
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