Operation Rebuild - Help.

[OldSchool42]

So, my 90s Fleetwood has some water damage in the rear. I knew that it had the damage when I purchased the unit and I'm looking forward to fixing it up. I definitely need help from the RV community.

THE FIRST TWO PICTURES ARE SIDEWAYS.

Please let me know if I'm doing too much and please provide any comments. I need your help!

Objectives
1) Remove interior back wall / shower and identify all the rot
2) Remove the exterior molding on the rear (Top, Middle, & Sides) of the RV.
3) Remove fiberglass sheets (upper and lower) - Do you recommend that I reuse the sheets or use aluminum or another type of metal sheet as a replacement? Where do you recommend that I look for replacement sheets?
3) Pull the window out, to be reinstalled later
4) Remove all of the rot and install new wood as part of the framing
4) Sand and paint rusted metal supports. Is there a particular paint that you recommend?
5) Install new wiring connectors to ensure that things work out.
6) Leave interior unfinished
7) Install Upper and Lower external rear sheets with corner molding using the Corner Seal Kit
8) Install Middle and Upper molding
8) Re-install window with new seals
9) Leave inside unfinished and use a hose to verify that there are no more leaks

Note - The prior owner had been using shower, even though it was leaking. He fixed the exterior leak with a bunch of sealant tape. All of the sealant tape will be removed and the seams will be fixed properly.

I have attached some pictures of the job to be done.

Your advice and guidance is appreciated!

[sam-3]

We restored our 1990 25ft. HiLo with upper wall water damage. I can answer a few of your questions. Rip off everything off the walls until you are back to the fiberglass or aluminum. Then use bondo to seal up the interior. This will cover any pinpoint holes you can't even see. We have been dry for years since our extensive repairs. Use rustoleum on any rusted metal or what ever is cheaper. Forgot to mention to use an industrial respirator when using bondo and disposable chip brushes. It really stinks and you will want to air the RV out for several days before resuming work. Yes,Take every window out and remount with butyl tape. A premium caulk to use is Lexel. Can be purchased at ACE Hardware.Lowes or on line. About $8.00 a tube..worth it. You tube has a video on taking RV windows out and reinstalling. With the windows out you can see the condition of your interior walls. Hope this helps you save alot of $ by not replacing siding. We used heavy duty liquid nails to put back all the interior wall layers. Cheapest at Walmart and they also sell bondo. Keep the questions coming.

[OldSchool42]

Originally Posted by sam-3

We restored our 1990 25ft. HiLo with upper wall water damage. I can answer a few of your questions. Rip off everything off the walls until you are back to the fiberglass or aluminum. Then use bondo to seal up the interior. This will cover any pinpoint holes you can't even see. We have been dry for years since our extensive repairs. Use rustoleum on any rusted metal or what ever is cheaper. Forgot to mention to use an industrial respirator when using bondo and disposable chip brushes. It really stinks and you will want to air the RV out for several days before resuming work. Yes,Take every window out and remount with butyl tape. A premium caulk to use is Lexel. Can be purchased at ACE Hardware.Lowes or on line. About $8.00 a tube..worth it. You tube has a video on taking RV windows out and reinstalling. With the windows out you can see the condition of your interior walls. Hope this helps you save alot of $ by not replacing siding. We used heavy duty liquid nails to put back all the interior wall layers. Cheapest at Walmart and they also sell bondo. Keep the questions coming.

Sam, thanks for the data! To verify, I should only attack this project from the inside and NOT remove any panels on the outside, correct?

[fasteddy]

I restored 4 vintage trailers from the frame up and this is what I learned. The most important thing when working where there is any chance of mold wear disposable painters suits with a hood and a very good respirator with replaceable filters. Do not use cheap paper filters. If you can, use an air supplied respirator and face shield that will cover you whole face. Wear goggles if you don't.

Carefully change out of the painter suit outside and not in any building and bag it up in individual bags. Don't reuse the suit. Mold spores travel with you. Shower afterwards and launder your clothes. I will guarantee you that you will never be as sick and possibly live as when your sick from mold spore illness. 25+ years later and my breathing is still labored from being sick.

Take time to look at YouTube videos to see what others have done to repair water damage. You can be assured that you will need to take off roofing and siding to repair the damage.

Sam-3 mentioned Bondo. Bondo which is a brand name for body filler isn't applied with a brush. I think he means automotive undercoating which can be sprayed or brushed on. Bondo may make undercoating as well.

If you look on the internet you will find companies that sell replacement siding and roofing or metal supplier in your area may be able to help you. If your Fleetwood is covered in fiberglass that is entirely different as the factory bonds the fiberglass to the wood siding using vacuum pressure to bond the two using glue to hold it in place. I think there is a blog here on Vintage motor homes that a fella made when he redid his fiberglass sided motor home.

You are about to take on a major undertaking repairing the damage and a fair amount of expense. It may well be cheaper and a lot easier to sell this one and purchase another one in good shape. Of course for people like me who can't resist a challenge this is like cheese to a mouse. Irresistible. I spent 50+ years restoring antique furniture and the worse the job was the more I wanted to do it.

All the best.

[sam-3]

They sold us a liquid by 3M called bondo. The can leaked so I tossed it out. It was indeed applied with a brush as it was liquid. We were able to repair our water damage from the inside without removing any of the fiberglass. The bondo dried rock solid hard and did a fabulous job of keeping any water from getting in. Look up this 3M product on the internet.

[sam-3]

This is what I found on the internet by going to 3MBondo Fiberglass resin. Bondo Home Then Bondo.com It gives a very detailed description of the uses and how to apply it. A very good full page with pictures of the liquid. Hope this helps you. I have to give credit to our HiLo repair center for telling us to do this.

[fasteddy]

Hi sam-3

Fiberglass resin would indeed seal up the interior. I helped a friend of mine who owned a fiberglass shop when he was busy and learned a lot. Your so right about the smell of it. 3M has a lot of products for body repair but anyone who has been around the body shop or car restoration hears Bondo it usually means body filler and it doesn't have to be the Bondo brand. Bondo buggy was a derisive term for poor body work when I was a kid. Just smother the poor body repair with Bondo body filler and smooth it out.

In some of the furniture refinishing shops it was used as well but not recommended. More than once I had to re repair legs that had been repaired with it and when a vacuum cleaner hit it too hard and it chipped out.

Looked at a repairable HiLo trailer in the spring and was very impressed with it. The owner wanted more for it than I felt it was worth so I passed up the chance to buy it.

[Gordon Dewald]

Good luck in your rebuild.

Several threads on the forum have dealt with rebuilding damaged RV's

Total Rebuild is one to take a look at.

[sam-3]

Fasteddy, Go to hear of your experience. If you want a HiLo to repair just keep looking. Our HiLo is very sturdy after our restoration. We bleong to a camping club composed of many SOB Rvs. The stories of new rigs with problems is horrifing. Many can't even get them repaired under warranty. Love my vintage HiLo.