Community Forums

fleamarketer · 10-12-2008, 04:35 PM

I am not ready to do this job yet,but I would like to get the info first.As I said,the whole floor will not be Pergo.I am finshing up scraping the ceiling and it is not a job I would want to do anytime soon again.So this floor has carpet on it and foam under it.What is the best way to remove the foam??.Some of Baby will have tile and I am guessing all the foam will have to be removed because of it.

Wallaby Dan · 10-12-2008, 05:46 PM

Well, When i changed to tile from carpet the foam came up with the carpet real easy! I had to wash the floors and then paint that sealer glue they use for that peel and stick tile. When i changed to Pergo, It was more work to remove the tile than putting down the wood planking.It was put down by the shop but it was still hard to pull up that tile!! I had most of it off before I took it down for the roof. Good luck with your floor, Dan

Clay L · 10-13-2008, 07:22 AM

The foam pad in my Winnebago Sightseer was held down with about two million staples (more or less).
I used a staple puller - made by Stanley, looks like a screwdriver with a split vee blade - and a pair of pliers to remove them.

Where there was linoleum I left it in place and installed the flooring over it.

Lorna · 10-13-2008, 04:38 PM

Personally, I would consider bamboo flooring before I would do Pergo or any other plastic laminate flooring. The laminate WILL scratch. It can not be repaired except by replacing the board. I have worked with plastic laminates (Prefer Wilsonart brand) since 1980. The flooring stuff is only slightly thicker than the countertop material we used and only has a slightly thicker topcoat on it. You may find that the bamboo can be bought cheaper than Pergo. Like I said... this is just a personal opinion.

fleamarketer · 10-13-2008, 06:27 PM

I'll get some pic's posted once I get after the floor as to what is holding the foam.

Still have alittle scraping to do on the ceiling above the cabinets that are above the kitchen table right behind the drivers seat.

The thing that has got me alittle concerned is building a curbside for a skylight above the shower.I still just don't know what I am doing and how to go about doing that.Your help in that area will help me tons in getting this roof project done.I also want to add two Maxfans
to the RV too,which because they are made for a RV in my mind will be easier having guidance from the manufacture.

Wallaby Dan · 10-14-2008, 04:26 PM

Gary, When you get closer to getting a skylight let me know and I will hook up a set of Pictures that can show how ours was installed. That should help you and if that don't PM me and I will send you a email on what was done and how, Dan

Lorna · 10-14-2008, 04:27 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by fleamarketer:
...The thing that has got me alittle concerned is building a curbside for a skylight above the shower... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Not quite sure what you mean by a "curbside". You might want to install a standard RV vent (with a fan) in the shower stall and stick one of those max covers over the vent. During the winter in S GA, I used our RV shower (6 gal water heater) and really appreciated the vent with the fan. I have the translucent vent and cover. It lets in enough natural light that I can shave my legs. I tend to leave that vent open year round except when the wind blows in the "wrong" direction (directly into the louvered side of the max air).

fleamarketer · 10-14-2008, 07:06 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Lorna:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by fleamarketer:
...The thing that has got me alittle concerned is building a curbside for a skylight above the shower... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Not quite sure what you mean by a "curbside". You might want to install a standard RV vent (with a fan) in the shower stall and stick one of those max covers over the vent. During the winter in S GA, I used our RV shower (6 gal water heater) and really appreciated the vent with the fan. I have the translucent vent and cover. It lets in enough natural light that I can shave my legs. I tend to leave that vent open year round except when the wind blows in the "wrong" direction (directly into the louvered side of the max air). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

What I am looking for is extra head room in the shower.

fleamarketer · 10-14-2008, 09:51 PM

Oh yeah,curbside is the flashing/framwork.

Wallaby Dan · 10-15-2008, 02:02 PM

OK, You will need to make a frame for the skylight the same type as what is in the roof itself. You may need it to be welded on or maybe Bolted on. That will keep you from having leaks like I did with Dusty. If it had been framed I wouldn't have had that issue. The new roof IS framed!!!

fleamarketer · 10-15-2008, 06:20 PM

Sounds like I should just buy the skylight I want and go on from there.Once I have that in my hand then I could plan out the cutout and the sizes for the framework.Dan-you remember the pic's of the bow tube frame??.I would just run tubes off them going front to back.Then a alloy frame welded to them.Then a flashing and seal.

Lorna · 10-15-2008, 06:25 PM

You will need to build a framework that fits between the roof/ceiling skins... in other words you need to remove to interior celing skin in order to add the framework that the skylight requires in order to attach it. Manufacturer should specify what you need. I would glue (waterproof yellow wood glue or Gorilla Glue) and screw the frame together, and in place. Make sure you flash the exterior and seal it well. Use the Elastometric caulk (roofing section at lumber yard... I use Henry's brand here) that you get in a caulking tube. Top-seal the flashing edges with the same repair fabric that you used elsewere on your roof (the Snow roof stuff) and then top-coat the fabric with more Snow roof coat. Skylights are notorious leakers. We have seen so much damage caused by them (both from actual water leaks and condensation). I don't care that much for the RV vent (and won't install one in a conversion) but I do think it is a better solution than a skylight. Do you really need the extra height or do you just want it? We do not have a step up type shower (floor raises up only acouple of inches) and David & I are short (I'm 5'5" and David is 5'7") so it's not a big deal for us.

fleamarketer · 10-15-2008, 08:23 PM

Lorna,
Yeah I have a step up type shower bottom which is best guess 18" to 24" tall making it tight standing in the shower.I am going to look for a different base because it is yellow and I want white.In terms of bases,I don't know what is out there yet.

One of the skylight comanpies I have looked at is this:

http://www.rvskylight.com/rvskylights.htm

Mainly because they make them for RV's,but see there they say they don't sell frames.

I did look into two companies from Lowes,but both say they don't sell skylights for RV's.

Lorna · 10-16-2008, 05:55 PM

We tend to buy stuff for our RV that wasn't manufactured for the RV. I also prefer marine stuff as it's usually better made than RV stuff and uses less power as well. I do love West Marine & Defender Marine catalogs. All that neat stuff. For our conversion, we are planning a "carbuncle-free" zone on our roof (no vents, AC units, pipes etc cluttering it up... plenty of room for PV units). So I have located some deck vents (fans) that I relly like an are very low profile. Also my windows will (most likely) be rectangular "portholes".