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Chieftain27 · 07-07-2022, 09:09 PM

Whats something you wish youve done differently so that pulling the tranny wouldve been easier or gone more smoothly.
Seeking real advice and stories.

darnold9999 · 07-07-2022, 10:28 PM

It has been a very long time but when I was pulling transmissions having the right tools made all the difference. First some way of supporting the transmission and then rolling it back on that support and down once everything was disconnected - and then reversing the process to install. The next most important tool was a very long set of 3/8" extension bars for your air gun (or ratchet wrench) with a universal swivel between the bar and the socket. A 1/2' bar, universal and socket does not work as well. You can get most of the transmission bell bolts out from underneath virtually any vehicle with those tools. I was working in a transmission shop so we had a special jack support on wheels that supported the oil pan. Have done it under trucks with a bottle jack and two by fours - not as easy. Don't remember anything specific about a 400 turbo - after a while they are all the same.

D Gardiner · 07-07-2022, 10:56 PM

Used to be a full time mechanic, from 1984-1997. Pull more automatic and stick shift gear boxes than I can remember.

My go-to tool was always been a three foot extension, with wobble sockets. If we are talking about pulling a THM400 from a Chevy class A RV, them my advice will be a good floor jack, or a low lift transmission jack. If a floor jack, the get some ratchet straps, to hold the transmission firmly to the jack pad.

The next piece of advise is keep the RV on it wheel to pull the transmission to the ground. Only lift the RV to slide the transmission out from underneath. You can use cardboard or thin plywood to do the pulling.

Soppy · 07-08-2022, 08:26 AM

They come out fairly easily. The main thing to to have some nice long extensions and flex joints. On some RV's you can access the top tranny bolts with the engine cover removed. Disconnect the battery first and remove the starter and cooler lines, linkages and wiring first. Don't forget about the vacuum line for the modulator valve. If the slip joint for the driveshaft goes into the tranny , be sure to seal it up to prevent the oil leaking out. I've used a floor jack to raise and lower the tranny , but be careful as the tranny does not balance nicely can easily slip off the jack.

cadillac_al · 07-08-2022, 08:47 AM

It's all about the transmission jack if you ask me. I have always used floor jacks on car transmissions but I don't think it would even work for a giant rv th400. If you can do it with a floor jack then you area good man.

darnold9999 · 07-08-2022, 11:56 AM

I would drain the oil before doing anything. Be aware that the torque converter will still be half full of oil, but with the oil drained you don't need to worry about the oil leaking out anywhere.

bigb56 · 07-08-2022, 12:05 PM

I made a flat wood platform for my floor jack using a pipe and floor flange to fit it into the floor jack. I agree with the long extensions and draining all you can, even though you will still end up with Dexron hair conditioner.

GypsyR · 07-08-2022, 12:12 PM

I envy you. I changed my Ford E4OD under mine and that thing is a monster compared to a 400. It's barely bigger than a regular turbo 350.

I related my fun with my E4OD in the Ford section but most wouldn't interest you. I did mine solo, with a floor jack. Two tricks I pulled you might care about though.
I made a sort of cradle that fit in place of the pad on my jack. It definitely helped keep it from sliding off it.
I pulled the transmission roughly off the jack under the coach and then slid it out the side. I slid it back in too but then had to get it up on the floor jack again. I didn't want to jack the RV up higher than I absolutely had to, hence the sliding. I considered calling for help but I just flat did not want to lift that monster. I ended up using three ratchet straps. Hooked across the frame rails and then looped under the transmission. Ratcheting up one in front and one in the rear got it up a ways. The front ran out of reel though so I swapped in a second one to raise it the rest of the way. I only needed it high enough to roll the floor jack back under it.
I did this in the yard. I used some spare sheets of OSB so the jack would roll. And I didn't have to crawl on dirt/grass/gravel. No paved area at my house to work on.

bigb56 · 07-08-2022, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GypsyR

I envy you. I changed my Ford E4OD under mine and that thing is a monster compared to a 400. It's barely bigger than a regular turbo 350.

I related my fun with my E4OD in the Ford section but most wouldn't interest you. I did mine solo, with a floor jack. Two tricks I pulled you might care about though.
I made a sort of cradle that fit in place of the pad on my jack. It definitely helped keep it from sliding off it.
I pulled the transmission roughly off the jack under the coach and then slid it out the side. I slid it back in too but then had to get it up on the floor jack again. I didn't want to jack the RV up higher than I absolutely had to, hence the sliding. I considered calling for help but I just flat did not want to lift that monster. I ended up using three ratchet straps. Hooked across the frame rails and then looped under the transmission. Ratcheting up one in front and one in the rear got it up a ways. The front ran out of reel though so I swapped in a second one to raise it the rest of the way. I only needed it high enough to roll the floor jack back under it.
I did this in the yard. I used some spare sheets of OSB so the jack would roll. And I didn't have to crawl on dirt/grass/gravel. No paved area at my house to work on.

A little thinking goes a long ways in getting stuff done by yourself. Years ago I was trying to stab a T-19 4 speed back in place and I kept knocking the throwout bearing off the fork. After about 6 tries I went and bought some all thread and threaded it into two opposite corners of the bell housing then just slid the T-19 onto the all thread and all the way home without disturbing the TO bearing. Then put in two bolts and replaced the all threads with 2 more bolts, easy peasy.
My first automatic was on a 1969 AMC Rebel, I laid under it and used my knees and hands to lower it onto my belly then slid it off to the side. I was only 17 though, and lacking in tools and money.

Argosy · 07-08-2022, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigb56

After about 6 tries I went and bought some all thread and threaded it into two opposite corners of the bell housing then just slid the T-19 onto the all thread and all the way home without disturbing the TO bearing. .

Essentially the same idea, I use bolts about 5" long, cut the heads off and round that end over a little. Makes actual R&R a piece of cake.

153stars · 07-09-2022, 01:46 AM

Good trans jack has tilt and shift adjustments check a rental store. , then you wont need long rods . Trans has line up pins. If carbed don't forget trans kick down cable. Used to get top bolts from top. Inspect rear trans mount early ,if it was a leaker, the rubber might be shot and need/want new mount they are cheap even at parts store. Certain size spray can top used to slide in rear seal and fluid wouldn't leak out. Don't forget to get convertor seated properly on trans shafts , its easy to miss the last cogs. Inspect ring gear and flywheel for wear and cracks also starter teeth. Better to catch it now than break a tooth after doing trans.

Argosy · 07-09-2022, 03:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 153stars

Good trans jack has tilt and shift adjustments check a rental store. , then you wont need long rods . Trans has line up pins. .

The dowels locate the the trans case because the mounting bolt holes are larger diameter than the bolts. By the time those come into play the input shaft is already in the converter or clutch disk.

I've used trans jacks and bolts. Trans jacks need a lot of jacking and adjusting to get the height and level right. With bolts the trans height is right, side to side and level are really close.