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Old 01-09-2019, 02:33 PM   #1
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Replacing shower pan

How is this done? I have theories but hate to jump in before I know. Does surround walls unscrew and come apart? Does drain just unscrew? Any place for creative pans?

Thanks


Jim
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Old 01-09-2019, 07:49 PM   #2
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This may provide some insight:
https://www.google.com/search?q=Repl...earch=irv2.com
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:13 PM   #3
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I removed shower pan on my 1993 Gulfstream motor home. Was fiberglass and cracking. I removed shower surround. Glass panels on both sides and glass door. Then shower surround walls. After taking hot and cold water valve assembly off. Then unscrewing drain cap and removing. Then started lifting shower pan and removing anything else that was holding. I inverted old shower pan and fiber-glassed botom of pan for strength, including hole for drain which was thin and brittle. Once strong again, re-built foam under pan. And matched paint color to shower walls and repainted. And reversed process to put back together. Looks as good as new and is strong and does not leak. Good luck on your project.


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Old 01-11-2019, 08:29 PM   #4
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Not sure about your particular coach, however many RV shower surrounds are held to the wall with double side tape. You will need to carefully pry off with a scraper tool. If the surround overlaps the shower pan, the pan screws are probably under that.
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Old 01-13-2019, 10:50 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Washington T View Post
How is this done? I have theories but hate to jump in before I know. Does surround walls unscrew and come apart? Does drain just unscrew? Any place for creative pans?

Thanks


Jim
I just finished removing and replacing the tub-shower pan combo in out 1989 Winnebago, Elandan. Looks intimidating but really a straight forward project. Mine was screwed to the surrounding walls, of course had to remove the surrounding molding first, just take care to do so slowly and carefully to avoid breaking or warping it, unless you plan on replacing it with a new one. Luckily mine was about 4 to 5 inches above the main floor grade and sat on a plywood shelf if you will. You should have an access panle or skirt that allows you to get to the drain junctions, alowing you to remove the unit. No matter how goor the drain seals look, replace them, i also used plumbers putty on the inside of the pan, directly under the drain and the rubber and fiber washer on the underside of the pan. If your unit does not have a fiber washer, you my consider applying a thin coat of vasoline or other lubricant between the ruber washer and the drain connection to prevent the rubber gasker from bunching up as you tighten everything down. Lots of luck
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Old 01-14-2019, 02:54 PM   #6
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thank for the help.

I really hate to jump in and do a project without a word from others. I now feel confident from all the links and responses. Now do I replace or repair? Is new better than repaired old? Now fiber glassing the bottom does not seem too bad.
I do hate the smell but ban be managed outside of motor home. I was worried about the surround.

I am also trying to upgrade motor home and bath is well 90's was looking for nicer than normal shower pan if i UPGRADE. I just cannot seem to find them as with this post I did a search and it showed nothing. People sent me links which should have shown up in a search but did not. I knew many people had to have problems cause there was a bit in there where they tried to cut corners with modern supplies at the time . I replaced the pb pipe with pex and they were just starting use of printed wood luck mine only had very little I can Imagine some.
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Old 01-14-2019, 08:15 PM   #7
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The shower pan I repaired was on a 1993 Gulfstream Sun Voyager. I did not even look for another pan. Not much to upgrade in a shower pan. I took a piece of the pan and matched the color with auto grade paint and painted the pan to match the surround. It is just fiberglass. It can be painted to any color you want. to compliment your re-decorating plan. If you do not have the resources, space, experience to do it yourself you can take it into an auto body repair/painting place and they can paint it. Good luck.


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Old 01-17-2019, 12:08 PM   #8
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Smile

I will pull it out in a few days. May get a car fiberglass kit or look for a boat shop. I figure a half inch of fiberglass will make it indestructible. A nice paint job will make it new. Guess I will need a respirator again. I have all the skill but am limited on the motivation. Thanks for the help. May have to hit you up again as a 92 is the same as a 93. Remodeling this Coach as a winter project .




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Old 01-17-2019, 03:25 PM   #9
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You have many options here. If you texture the pan (use bed liner material) you can color it any way you want with a rattle can. Same for surround. Mix or match. You will like the freedom in design this will give.


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Old 01-17-2019, 09:50 PM   #10
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Walmart has fiber glass supplies

Go to Walmart in the aisle with wiper blades. This is where we found a fiberglass kit...supplies. They also have plenty of cans of spray paint.
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Old 01-18-2019, 09:46 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Washington T View Post
How is this done? I have theories but hate to jump in before I know. Does surround walls unscrew and come apart? Does drain just unscrew? Any place for creative pans?

Thanks


Jim
Working on the tub/shower pan and wall in my 89 winner. No problem.with the pan, other than that hidious Amber/beige color. The surrounding walls were shot though.
I used a bright white, in a satin finish to spray paint the pan. A paint called Fusion, is available at most home improvement centers, it is made specifically for painting plastics, fiberglass, vinyl, and PVC materials. It works great and holds up to water, no flaking or peeling at all.
For the wall surrounds I use a generic tub surround, had to tweek it a bit but fits very well.
I found a product at Lowe's called Mussel-bond.
It is a double sided tape. Actually used to replace the need for mortar to set floor and counter top tiles. It worked great to secure the wall panel in place. It has instant grab, no need to keep pressure on the surfacesuntil the typical glues and silicones require. It is 12 inches wide and roll has 15 feet on it. You can cut it easily with box knife or scissors to allow contours to be followed and to place strips where you need them. This has worked well for my project, so may consider this approach. Lots of luck
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Old 01-18-2019, 08:01 PM   #12
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I rebuilt a shower pan in the last unit we had, which was a 92 Georgie Boy. I did it a tad differently though. First I scuffed the underside of the old pan. I bought some special epoxy from "Devcon" that is made for plastic. I coated the underside of the pan with the special epoxy mixed with chopped fiberglass strands. After fiberglassing I filled the cavity with tile adhesive. I know that sounds extreme but I wanted it to be rigid. It added 50 to 60 lbs overall which wasnt bad. Our old pan was cracking and although it wasnt leaking the water was running away from the drain. 1 little trick- The ring nut that makes the connection from the drain tailpiece (in the pan) to the trap was inaccessible without cutting under the chassis. I dry ran the assembly to make sure it would fit, then coated the tailpiece and inside of the trap with pure silicone. Light on the female part, heavy on the male. Never leaked, ever. I redid the shower walls with FRP panels. FYI there is a company somewhere that will custom manufacture a vacuum formed pan, but wow is it expensive. Good luck!
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Old 01-19-2019, 08:09 AM   #13
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Quote:
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I will pull it out in a few days. May get a car fiberglass kit or look for a boat shop. I figure a half inch of fiberglass will make it indestructible. A nice paint job will make it new. Guess I will need a respirator again. I have all the skill but am limited on the motivation. Thanks for the help. May have to hit you up again as a 92 is the same as a 93. Remodeling this Coach as a winter project .




Jim
Not to try to second guess you, butbemindfuo that these pans need to set fairly level, usually on secondary flooring , mine actually has a layer of thick foam insulation to keep it seated firmly and flat so won't rock around as you use it. May need to consider any build up from the patch site may have to compensated for else on the bottom.best of luck with project
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Old 01-19-2019, 05:25 PM   #14
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Smile Lots of options -thanks

Never thought about bed-liner material. I am going to do the entire pan with fiberglass about 1/4" 2 coats. 1/2 inch thick and build in pan supports. Now I need to decide what color or surface material. Most likely use a spray can material to paint. Mussel-bond and fusion give me other options. A texture allows maximum hiding non slip material. I am glad to find other who have experienced the same problem.
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