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08-25-2012, 07:38 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cutler Bay, Florida
Posts: 707
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Sealing my roof, what product is best
I found I have a leak over the bathroom, I have two stack vents, a skylight and a vent air roof vent up there and I thoughthad them all sealed water tight but I was wrong. I do not have a rubber roof, it is something else, not sure what it is.
What is the best product to use and any tips on properly using it??
I have a few gallons of an elastomeric roof sealed left from sealing my house roof, but I think I wil need something better then that stuff.
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08-25-2012, 10:51 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,136
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No matter what the roof is made of Eternabond is the best bet
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08-25-2012, 11:38 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cutler Bay, Florida
Posts: 707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trackman
No matter what the roof is made of Eternabond is the best bet
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My issue is that I cannot figure out where it is leaking, it is just dripping out of the ceiling in a corner of the skylight. I think that is just a convienent place for the water to show itself.
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08-25-2012, 11:49 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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I'd think a careful scraping of old caulk and cleaning with mineral spirits, then use Eternabond tape around all fixtures. A bit of self leveling caulk on any screw heads or fastenings should seal the deal.
__________________
Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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08-25-2012, 02:16 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cutler Bay, Florida
Posts: 707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181
I'd think a careful scraping of old caulk and cleaning with mineral spirits, then use Eternabond tape around all fixtures. A bit of self leveling caulk on any screw heads or fastenings should seal the deal.
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There is an old buildup all around the huge skylight, I had caulked anywhere that looked like it might leak and we even got a few cans of that spray sealer you see advertised on TV and gave it two coats and I was positive it could not leak, but it did.
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08-26-2012, 04:39 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Rochester
Posts: 789
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Leaks do travel long distances.RV places I have heard can pressurize the inside of a RV and spray a soapy material on the roof to see it bubbling and exactly where the leak is.
__________________
The one thing about a do over is you get to do what you knew in the first place.
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08-26-2012, 09:20 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cutler Bay, Florida
Posts: 707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilito
There is an old buildup all around the huge skylight, I had caulked anywhere that looked like it might leak and we even got a few cans of that spray sealer you see advertised on TV and gave it two coats and I was positive it could not leak, but it did.
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Here is some pictures of the roof around and near the skylight, You can see the black spray on sealer I last used.
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08-26-2012, 09:52 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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I've seen the ads where the spray stuff is used to seal a screen door bottom on a rowboat. Unfortunately, an RV roof leak, once started, might not be sealed by spray. If you plan to keep the RV, I'd try to remove all that spray and the old caulk, all the removable roof vents and their bases, and start over with Eternabond tape and self leveling caulk. Adding more 'left over elastomeric roof sealer' will just build up more layers of stuff that could hide the damage and the leak that started it all. The roof of an RV is subject to heat, cold, vibration and movement that needs a flexible caulk or tape at all joints.
__________________
Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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08-26-2012, 03:37 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cutler Bay, Florida
Posts: 707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181
I've seen the ads where the spray stuff is used to seal a screen door bottom on a rowboat. Unfortunately, an RV roof leak, once started, might not be sealed by spray. If you plan to keep the RV, I'd try to remove all that spray and the old caulk, all the removable roof vents and their bases, and start over with Eternabond tape and self leveling caulk. Adding more 'left over elastomeric roof sealer' will just build up more layers of stuff that could hide the damage and the leak that started it all. The roof of an RV is subject to heat, cold, vibration and movement that needs a flexible caulk or tape at all joints.
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I think you are right, just what are these roofs normally covered with or made of, is it a fiberglass or plastic material? The seams along the side edges and the front and rear caps where it is worn appear to look like a fiberglass cloth tape.
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08-26-2012, 03:51 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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Most roofs are EDPM (rubber), aluminum, or fiberglass. I have a rubber roof and check it every 6 months for leaks or cracks. I recently learned of a product by Rhino liner, the folks that make pickup bed liners. It looks pretty interesting, they promise a 30 year roof at no more cost than replacing a rubber roof that needs re-coating every 5-8 years.
__________________
Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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08-26-2012, 04:13 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,143
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Sure looks like you have a rubber roof. If the roof is crowned, water does not flow uphill, so the source should be possible to find. Mine looks like that and is rubber. I had a leak that was determined to be on a corner of the roof and also at the skylight. Washed The roof, removed the skylight as well as all o the caulk along the side and at the skylight. Confirmed that there was no skylight damage. (you could have a hairline crack). Re-installed and recaulked all with Dicor self leveling caulk.
No more leaks.
The prior owner had tried just slapping more caulking over existing and it didn't work - and was a big mess to remove.
__________________
History:'05 Concord, '08 View, '05 Chinook, '01 Jamboree 24D, '78 Apache Popup, 81 Komfort Tlr,
84 Mazda B2000 'w canopy,Tent from wedding in '96
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08-26-2012, 04:49 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 91
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If you're in the mood for an insane project. I pulled my rubber roof off and replaced it with fiberglass. All my vents are on 1/2" stand-offs (like a boat), so no screws penetrate the roof. I eliminated over 600 screws (leak points) and moulded the top to the sides. The vents are attached with 3M 5200, a permanent compound. It passed the Hurricane Irene leak test.
__________________
1990/2014 30ft Gulf Stream Sun Clipper
and a couple of bikes
exit 100 NJ
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08-26-2012, 06:11 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cutler Bay, Florida
Posts: 707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderso
Sure looks like you have a rubber roof. If the roof is crowned, water does not flow uphill, so the source should be possible to find. Mine looks like that and is rubber. I had a leak that was determined to be on a corner of the roof and also at the skylight. Washed The roof, removed the skylight as well as all o the caulk along the side and at the skylight. Confirmed that there was no skylight damage. (you could have a hairline crack). Re-installed and recaulked all with Dicor self leveling caulk.
No more leaks.
The prior owner had tried just slapping more caulking over existing and it didn't work - and was a big mess to remove.
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There is a few small cracks in the skylight, I put some silicone on the inside and covered the outside with that spray rubber sealant, I guess it must be leaking somewhere else
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08-26-2012, 06:28 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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Often the skylight is doubled, an outside and an inside. If that's the case with yours, silicone on the inside won't seal the cracks in the top layer.
__________________
Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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