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Old 03-03-2022, 10:02 AM   #15
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So it finally warmed up to -12 C this past weekend and did a little investigating.
I have sorted the positive and negative cables. I installed a starting battery but no gauges or ignition, battery is 13.2 volts.
Battery gauge on dash indicates a full battery but other than the gauge, no other signs the battery is connected.
Now the house battery cables which are on the passenger side front of coach has 2 positive cables and 2 negative cables. Would one set be for feeding the cabin and the other returns from generator?
I donít want to connect new house batteries until I confirm this.
Thanks to everyone that has contributed to my post so far.
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Old 03-03-2022, 11:07 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1992 Bounder View Post
So it finally warmed up to -12 C this past weekend and did a little investigating.
I have sorted the positive and negative cables. I installed a starting battery but no gauges or ignition, battery is 13.2 volts.
Battery gauge on dash indicates a full battery but other than the gauge, no other signs the battery is connected.
Now the house battery cables which are on the passenger side front of coach has 2 positive cables and 2 negative cables. Would one set be for feeding the cabin and the other returns from generator?
I donít want to connect new house batteries until I confirm this.
Thanks to everyone that has contributed to my post so far.

Connect all the positives to your battery and see if everything works. You can then remove 1 cable at a time and find out what doesn't work. One cable might go to the boost switch so everything will work with it disconnected.
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Old 03-03-2022, 04:27 PM   #17
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Not a bad idea! Just use a set of jumper cables.
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Old 03-03-2022, 09:10 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1992 Bounder View Post
So it finally warmed up to -12 C this past weekend and did a little investigating.
I have sorted the positive and negative cables. I installed a starting battery but no gauges or ignition, battery is 13.2 volts.
Battery gauge on dash indicates a full battery but other than the gauge, no other signs the battery is connected.
Now the house battery cables which are on the passenger side front of coach has 2 positive cables and 2 negative cables. Would one set be for feeding the cabin and the other returns from generator?
I donít want to connect new house batteries until I confirm this.
Thanks to everyone that has contributed to my post so far.
Can you confirm your setup is similar to what D Gardiner has in post #10?
Specifically the last picture posted, as you will have to trace the + cables back to the chassis/house solenoids for proper hook-up.
Can you confirm with a voltmeter that you have +13VDC on the chassis solenoid too? Does it latch when operated?
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Old 03-04-2022, 07:09 AM   #19
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Dont forget to switch the disconnect(s)
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Old 03-05-2022, 12:35 PM   #20
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Here is a picture of my battery control center. I now have 12 volt house lights and and dash lights. Still no starter crank. I am only getting power on one of those solenoids so far. The ignition also doesnít feel right, I have to turn pretty hard on the key and it doesnít spring back like it should. I Will be changing that out for sure.

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Old 03-05-2022, 06:03 PM   #21
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Well you got one image uploaded, the rest should be the same way!!


The top LH solenoid has the small purple and gray wires on it; Purple and gray is written in red on the label and so is CHASSIS... so that is yer chassis solenoid. The lower RH solenoid has brown and white written in black, just like the word COACH, so that is the coach solenoid.
Now the top RH solenoid is connected to bus bar from the top chassis cable and the other large terminal is connect to the bus bar from the coach solenoid... this solenoid (relay) will be the "Emergency Start" relay and sometimes used to charge the batteries from either side (alternator or converter) depending on your system.
The lower LH solenoid (relay) at the moment I am out of ideas (without guessing).


EDIT: So, the top LARGE cable comes from the chassis battery and the middle large cable is from the coach batteries. The lower cable I will assume it goes to a bus somewhere to feed the coach electrical e.g 12V fuse panel; this you will have to trace to be certain.
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Old 03-06-2022, 04:18 PM   #22
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Thanks to everyoneís help here, I have figured out the electrical and now have the engine cranking over. It didnít fire so now I am moving on to the fuel delivery system. It has been sitting for almost 2 years. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-06-2022, 06:30 PM   #23
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Thanks to everyoneís help here, I have figured out the electrical and now have the engine cranking over. It didnít fire so now I am moving on to the fuel delivery system. It has been sitting for almost 2 years. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Electrical is my thing, but...
This is a gas engine?

Sitting two years, same gas?? It would be smelly and old, may not even burn.

1992... Is it fuel injected or carburettor?
Electric fuel pump?
... and easy to check for spark on a cylinder

Now if it is a diesel, forget the above.
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Old 03-07-2022, 09:36 PM   #24
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Yes it is gasoline engine, Ford F53 chassis 460 fuel injected engine.
I have it turning over now but either no fuel or spark.
I looked for fuses and relays and donít see anything fuel related in fuse box.
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Old 03-08-2022, 08:45 AM   #25
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Have a look at the "Ford" fusebox. It should be above the driver's left foot area. With all your unknowns I would next check for codes at the diagnostic plug. It should be tucked away at the driver's side very front of the engine compartment. Mine was hidden in a rubber boot to keep water out or something. Then there is a fuel pump relay up in the same area too that you can check. (Without the engine running, the fuel pump is only powered for a few seconds after the key is first switched on.) Also power to the ignition coil is easy to check.
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Old 03-08-2022, 10:02 AM   #26
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Check the BCC and ensure you have the proper voltages and relays engage.
Without the model number, I think this is for your BCC.
https://intellitec.com/wp-content/up...T-BROCHURE.pdf
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Old 03-08-2022, 10:48 AM   #27
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A quick 1 second shot of starting fluid into the air intake and then crank it over. This will tell you if you have spark. It will start for a couple seconds if it has spark and no gas.

No start, then no spark.
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Old 03-08-2022, 10:57 PM   #28
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Thanks for the BCC documents. Itís a 1992 Bounder model K
I will try the spray in fuel trick on the weekend.
I have done a ton of reading the last few days and I found enough info to get me well on my way with some testing and troubleshooting ideas.
I will post back after I try some tips found in old posts.
I canít thank everyone enough that have contributed to this thread. I have learned a lot so far about this MH. And Iím learning the lingo too lol.
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