What did you do to your old RV today?

[Ericb760]

I finally got around to replacing the leaky faucets in the galley and head. I had to use a sawzall on the head faucet in order to lift the bowl out to get to the connections. Maybe if I was 50 lbs. lighter I could have done it from under the sink, but it's tight down there. Galley sink was a simple swap. I had some concerns about the condition of the water line connections, but everything went in smoothly with no leaks so far. Fingers crossed...

[Serpentjaz]

Since I'm living full time in this I moved all my stuff including my entertainment center I just set up here ya go I live at my job now

[ronspradley]

Some coaches are not worth the effort and expense to maintain and restore. This one is.


ronspradley

[RM Art]

Nice rig! Tag wheel too!!

Be sure to consistently keep your eyes on all of the tires' age, inflation pressures and sidewall/tread conditions.

Merry Christmas and Happy Hew Year!

Enjoy!

Art

[Sundancer268]

Originally Posted by Serpentjaz

Since I'm living full time in this I moved all my stuff including my entertainment center I just set up here ya go I live at my job now

So what year is the coach and how many miles on it? Must be nice to walk to work, the best I ever had was a two mile bike ride across the base to the ship. Now I just walk out to the barn when I feel like working on anything. Retirement is good!

[Serpentjaz]

I could use some advice from you guys when do I know I should start putting air in the tires I'm going to eventually get a meter but I want to go based on looking at them too they don't look flat but they are a little fat towards the bottom I'm guessing from all the weight

[Serpentjaz]

56000 miles and it's a 84

[Serpentjaz]

Originally Posted by ronspradley

Some coaches are not worth the effort and expense to maintain and restore. This one is.


ronspradley

Thank you she truly is worth it so little wrong too...

I'm going to be in hooking up a 6000 watt inverter directly to the battery eventually and then I'll plug the motorhome itself into that inverter when I have the engine running that way I can use everything well not everything but like the air conditioner or microwave and I'll just turn off my battery charger when I do that...

I got a $2,500 repair I need to do replacing a gasket that leaks oil and I also got to remove the old generator and I'll be putting in a brand new Onan too...

I plan on living out of this for quite a few years it's something I've always wanted to do since I was a child and I finally am able to I'm saving so much money to even with repairs...

I work as a dog handler making only about a thousand a month

[RM Art]

Originally Posted by Serpentjaz

I could use some advice from you guys when do I know I should start putting air in the tires I'm going to eventually get a meter but I want to go based on looking at them too they don't look flat but they are a little fat towards the bottom I'm guessing from all the weight

Even tires that look good on all surfaces should maybe be changed by the time they are 6 to 7yrs old; no matter the miles of travel on them. Reason: Tire material degrades [especially the sidewalls]... due to the sun, air, oils and other elements; while carrying a lot of RV weight they too often blow out due to age alone. If cracks in tread recesses or sidewall is noticed... a trip to a good tire store should be immediately accomplished.

Get a tire gauge [a real good one!]. Keep tires correctly inflated. It's often recommended to keep tires near or at the maximum pressure printed on their sidewall. Some recommend to keep tires at pressure your RV instructions state. My own preferred tire pressure is 5% below max pressure printed on tire. Reason I do that is so when hot the tire pressure does not increase too much while also making sure the pressure is not too low in any temperature. Your decision to what is the best pressure is yours alone. This paragraph is for recommendation only. YRMV! Tires run under inflated or over inflated may experience problems.

Stay safe!

[RickNC]

Worked on the roof the last couple of days. My MH has a fiberglass roof. It had a 2 small area ‘s of damage from a storm in 2012 that the previous owner had repaired. The shop who did it instead of actually make a repair to the fiberglass decided to mop EDM all over the roof. Fast forward to now all that rubber has dried up and began crazing all over. About a week ago I did the first sanding with 40 grit and removed most of the old EDM plus I properly repaired the fiberglass Yesterday I finished with 80 grit and got it down to where I would get a good bond. I have almost a gallon of white two part Urethane paint(Sherthane industrial/ marine paint) that I recently found hiding in a box in the shop for the past 5 years. It was left over from my last commercial remodeling project. I mixed some up a few days ago to see if was still good and it was. I rolled on the first coat today and it looks pretty good with a nice gloss. Unlike 2k automotive polyurethanes this dries pretty slow. It took a bit over 4 hours to dry to the touch. I will see if has cured enough to Scotchbrite and recoat tomorrow.

[Serpentjaz]

Rick that came out real nice man congrats...

[THenne1713]

Running rear duallies 10# low can lower rear axle CAPACITY by 1,000#; running tires under-inflated can cause internal damage and leaving piles of loose rubber inside the not out-of-sight... and greatly raise risk of blowout. NEVER run tires low, better to run MAX COLD HARSH ride... but safer

[Deny]

Originally Posted by Serpentjaz

I could use some advice from you guys when do I know I should start putting air in the tires I'm going to eventually get a meter but I want to go based on looking at them too they don't look flat but they are a little fat towards the bottom I'm guessing from all the weight

The best idea is to inflate before every trip. If you don't add much (a few pounds) then just eyeball them , every travel day. If you have to add 5 or so pounds...then it's a good idea to find the leak and fill every morning until you do.

tire leaks do not go away, or get better

[D Gardiner]

In my last post (5561) I mention that I would experiment, and see if I could change the light emitted from the newly installed Bargman 86 series wrap-around side marker light. Wasn't quite happy that the reflector blocked the LED light output. Turns out the reason for that is the reflector is mounted into the wrap-around lens with double sided tape.

I began by first modifying the old lenses, (that were destined for the round file), before attempting to modifying the new lenses. After another two days of cutting and fitting It worked well.

The modified wrap-around lenses now look similar to the standard Bargman LED brake and parking light. It's not perfect, but I'm quite happy with how everything turned out. The last two pictures show the lights on the park setting. The brake is much, much brighter.

Below are the steps:

A) Warm the front and back of the lens to soften the double sided adhesive and carefully pry the reflector out of the lens.
B) Remove the still warm double sided adhesive. (Easiest to remove when warm.)
C) Mark out the area from the old 47-84-420 scrapped lens for its reflector and clear red lens detail.
Note: Alternatively you can just RTV silicone back in the original reflector, but you will not get the same look from the LED lights.
D) Carefully cut the around the masking tape with a saw wheel on a Dremel. Clean off any burrs and sand the edges smooth.
E) Mask off the lens and your cut panels, from step D. The tape will allow you to clean off any excess silicone that will squeeze out the sides.
F) Layer in the RTV silicone and press your panels into the lens. Press out any air bubbles and let the silicone cure for a few hours. Remove the masking tape and give the lenses a quick pass with a terry towel.