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Old 07-12-2021, 07:38 AM   #6259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RM Art View Post
You mention: "Stripping the ZEP Floor Wax that finally started giving up the ghost, 10 years after application.

ZEP's shine actually lasted 10 years... Did you double coat? I've read in several others' posts that the ZEP shine only lasts for a couple years at longest before discoloration makes great effort required to remove the ZEP and regain the natural shine on surface. !0 years before great effort is required sounds actually not too bad a deal. I'm interested to learn more about your experience with ZEP shine product.

McGuires #67 for Fiberglass & Gelcoat and RejeX polymer wax sound like they work well for you.



I put that zep crap on mine 5 years ago and regret it Its taken me two days just to buff the front cap. I wish I never put it on !!! I will stick with the wax treatment over that crap any day..
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Old 07-12-2021, 08:53 AM   #6260
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I got some "Black streak remover" on my Zep coat and it removed some of it with a wipe. I found ammonia to strip it also, never mind the stripper Zep actually sells for the purpose. Trying to buff it off sounds like WAY too much work.
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Old 07-13-2021, 10:01 AM   #6261
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Almost

90% finished with the renovation. Walls, cabinets, floors, toilet, sink, faucets, drawers, hardware, switches, bed, lights. Leaving for test run - 1 month camping in local county parks, when the emergency brake system failed to disengage. Into the shop awaiting diagnosis. Disappointed grandson.
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Old 07-14-2021, 10:46 PM   #6262
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Refrigerator Vent Fan

Our last RV trip indicated the need for quicker refrigerator cooling in hot weather. Mainly my fault. It was especially evident when I turned OFF our refrigerator when we had to park way off level in some parking lots (and I forgot to turn the fridge back on). Twice!! Once for 3 hours, and once for 2 hours (100 degrees outside), with the sun was on the refridgerator wall.

Have wanted to add a refrigerator chimney fan/s for some time now. Knew I wanted a master on/off switch, and a thermostatically controlled fan switch. This way the fans can cycle on and off automatically. The first job was to order a new roof vent and base. The old style from Dometic is now obsolete.
Beware: The new Dometic refrigerator roof vent base is a good inch wider than the original. Depending on your rig, this extra width may become a mounting issue. In our case I had too centering the new base over the existing metal roof frame work. Some of the screws needed to be put in at an angle to catch the metal under the rubber roof. The other thing I noticed is the new vent had less than half of the mounting holes drilled, verses the original. Had to drill an extra hole between each existing pre-drilled hole in the base.

After removing the roof vent I noticed that one, of the two, fiberglass insulation pads had fallen on top of the condenser fins. A good 6 inches of the fins were block from air flow. The second thing I noticed was that the top of the refrigerator, and the cabinet walsl (above the fridge) wasn't insulated either. Lastly there was no baffle to direct the air to the chimney above the fridge. Used some of the left over insulation, from our engine dog house project, to cover the uninsulated areas. Insulated the top of the refrigerator, and made a baffle to direct the air flow up the chimney. The insulation should help keep the fridge and cabinet, above the fridge, stay cool.

Used four 92mm computer fans, too (almost completely) fill the chimney cut out. Cut some aluminum plates to bolt the fans to each other, and suspend the fan assembly from the roof opening. This should make repair or replacement easy in the future.

Wired the fans together, and ran the wires down inside the chimney. An adjustable thermostatically controlled switch was mounted to the evaporator tube (see the phot below). The master on/off switch is mounted inside the fridge cavity, behind the exterior access panel. Also added a led to indicate when the fan circuit is activated. (see photos)

The actual build and install took way, way longer than I ever could have imagined. Still need to Dicor the roof vent (tomorrow). Verdict: The four fans draw enough air to hold a 8.5 x 11 sheet of paper to the fridge access cover. At the moment I have the thermo switch set to turn on at 100 degrees and off at 80 degrees. Real-world testing will tell me if I need to adjust up or down from there.
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Old 07-17-2021, 04:07 PM   #6263
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Exhaust doughnuts

Replaced both exhaust doughnuts (7/16/21)


Passenger side one blew while in southern Ca. back on the 11th July (my planned start day to return home). Replaced both but was unable to replace the springs and nuts. Roll forward...after returning to Renton, Wa. the passenger side one was nearly gone again. I noticed the nuts were bottoming out prior to applying tension via the springs to the flange-pipe allowing for a leak.


Pulled the pipe down on both sides again and replaced the springs and nuts. Also applied lots of copper seize on everything. Once done I started the engine a few times to heat cycle everything and re-check. All nice and quiet now.


Used Fel-Pro doughnuts.


Also have on order an EGR (electric driven) and a trans filter (will change the trans fluid).
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Old 07-20-2021, 04:44 PM   #6264
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Purchased some Thermo-shield wrap 2000F (1.5inx15') and will wrap the trans lines where they pass the exhaust manifold on the passenger side. The input/output lines go forward to the trans cooler up front.



Why GM placed them within what I deem 'close proximity' of the exhaust manifold is beyond me. I know without a doubt the fluid is picking up unwarranted heat from the exhaust.
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Old 07-21-2021, 05:04 AM   #6265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by udidwht View Post
Purchased some Thermo-shield wrap 2000F (1.5inx15') and will wrap the trans lines where they pass the exhaust manifold on the passenger side. The input/output lines go forward to the trans cooler up front.



Why GM placed them within what I deem 'close proximity' of the exhaust manifold is beyond me. I know without a doubt the fluid is picking up unwarranted heat from the exhaust.
I agree with you, but there's not much room to route the lines elsewhere. I too was concerned with tranny temps so I added an after market cooler from Jegs. It has a thermostatically controlled fan. Made a huge difference. The installation was relatively simple.
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Old 07-21-2021, 02:14 PM   #6266
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I agree with you, but there's not much room to route the lines elsewhere. I too was concerned with tranny temps so I added an after market cooler from Jegs. It has a thermostatically controlled fan. Made a huge difference. The installation was relatively simple.
Finished wrapping them. I removed the tin shield that covers the passenger side manifold area. On the backside of it there are (2) clips holding the trans line that go to/from the trans. Push those clips thru from the outside and the panel can be removed completely.



Once removed access is easy. Both lines are literally within 2-3 inches of the entire manifold length and also where the exhaust pipe meets the end of the manifold where the doughnut lives.


I also covered the oil lines where they meet the block up to where they pass the engine mount. I also ordered an oil filter heat shield that will wrap the exhaust pipe (stainless ties hold in place).


I'll put some pics up of the job. There is a trans cooler on this rig. No fan attached to it however. This wrapping should help alleviate any heat dump into the lines dramatically.
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Old 07-21-2021, 07:01 PM   #6267
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Here are the pics...


https://www.dropbox.com/s/n6ip0mno8s...B1%5D.jpg?dl=0


https://www.dropbox.com/s/175g99yebv...B1%5D.jpg?dl=0


https://www.dropbox.com/s/zsrxyz9k64...B1%5D.jpg?dl=0
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Old 07-22-2021, 05:01 AM   #6268
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I've finally bought an air and water heater. The dream of an off-grid life is not far away.

I got my rusty Winnebago Type C on an auction and been working for the past two years to make it completely liveable. Today my Heater from https://www.heatso.com/webasto-dual-top-st-6/ was finally installed and ready to put to test!
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Old 07-22-2021, 05:46 AM   #6269
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Nice job
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Old 07-22-2021, 09:07 AM   #6270
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Created for sale ads on IRV2 and Facebook Marketplace for our 1999 Safari Trek since we recently bought a 2005 Trek. Let's see how "Hot" the used motorhome market is
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Old 07-22-2021, 11:41 AM   #6271
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Quote:
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Created for sale ads on IRV2 and Facebook Marketplace for our 1999 Safari Trek since we recently bought a 2005 Trek. Let's see how "Hot" the used motorhome market is
Just this week a fellow stopped by to ask if I wanted to sell our really good condition 1996, 25' Tiffin Allegro, 37K miles, 454 tbi gasser. Said it would be "for he and his mom". He mentioned $18K. I said $23K. He took the page with his phone # off out from under the windshield wiper.

Kinda figure he may have been zooming me. Prob would have lowered his offer once we took a ride and then offered it on line for $23K +/-??

Good luck... let us know what happens.

RV and boat markets/sales/purchases are different these days. So are prices for nearly everything.
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Old 07-22-2021, 11:57 AM   #6272
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Quote:
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Created for sale ads on IRV2 and Facebook Marketplace for our 1999 Safari Trek since we recently bought a 2005 Trek. Let's see how "Hot" the used motorhome market is


PM me with a link to the ad I cannot find the classifieds here.
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