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Old 07-22-2021, 01:41 PM   #6273
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PM me with a link to the ad I cannot find the classifieds here.
This link should take you to the ad: https://www.irv2.com/rvclassifieds/s...rek-2830&cat=4

Take care,
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Old 07-23-2021, 09:52 AM   #6274
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I've finally bought an air and water heater. The dream of an off-grid life is not far away.

I got my rusty Winnebago Type C on an auction and been working for the past two years to make it completely liveable. Today my Heater from https://www.heatso.com/webasto-dual-top-st-6/ was finally installed and ready to put to test!
Wow! Just checked out your link for the air and water heater. $4500 on sale price. I'm impressed and staggered! Does look like a very nice compact unit that will replace both the standard furnace and 6-gal water heater. That saves the LP for the fridge, and you can camp for weeks with 5-10 gallons of diesel in a jerry can.
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Old 07-28-2021, 11:58 AM   #6275
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I had a badly cracked floor register vent in the bathroom. Found the "correct" replacement and swapped it. Easy. The first time we used the heat last winter the center vane got soft and turned banana shaped until it just fell out. So now I can't modulate or shut off heat to the bathroom. Forgot about it with warmer weather.
Working on the engine I kept kneeling on a forward floor vent that was already cracked and it pinched my knee. Enough. On a trip to Home depot I remembered to look and they had some registers about the right size so I grabbed a pair. I pulled the front one and plopped the new one in. Fit pretty decent even though it's a tad narrower.
Issue with these is they don't have screw holes at the ends AND are slightly shorter. So though I can dimple them and drill holes I can't actually put matching holes in them without being right at the edges which offends my eye.
The front vent is in carpet and no big deal. I think I can place the holes in a way I like and still catch some solid flooring.
Bathroom is a different story with the tiled floor. I'm kicking around gluing it down with some clear urethan glue I've had success with on other things. Not decided yet though, the glue seems like it would be a last resort type thing.
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Old 07-28-2021, 06:13 PM   #6276
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Replaced the water pump which apparently had been cracked and slightly leaking since our Texas deep freeze a while back. While I had the lower panels off I sanded the rust off, masked the decals and painted them and replaced the screws with stainless.
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Old 07-29-2021, 11:53 AM   #6277
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2000 Southwind V-32 This last month we've changed, the awning, the slide cover, The rear ac fan motor and the solenoid that connects the batteries, The battery isolator I had installed was dropping 1.5 volts across it and the house batteries were always under charged. Now it's the same voltage charging the house batteries as the alternator voltage thanks to a working solenoid.
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Old 07-30-2021, 08:58 PM   #6278
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Trans fluid/filter change (4L80E)


A simple drop of pan and filter will require 5quarts of Dex-VI (Valvoline Max used). Once the pan is reinstalled start and run the RV thru the gears a few times. Then allow it to sit overnight.


First thing prior to start I check the fluid level. It will read high (in mid-lower hot zone) This is normal. Start the engine. Now check the fluid again. Once started the fluid will now flow thru trans. The read on the stick now is right at full cold mark. As the engine warms it rises. After roughly 15min or so the read is at low hot mark. Done. Once you drive the fluid will hit between the low-high hash hot zone.
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Old 07-30-2021, 11:13 PM   #6279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by udidwht View Post
Trans fluid/filter change (4L80E)


A simple drop of pan and filter will require 5quarts of Dex-VI (Valvoline Max used). Once the pan is reinstalled start and run the RV thru the gears a few times. Then allow it to sit overnight.


First thing prior to start I check the fluid level. It will read high (in mid-lower hot zone) This is normal. Start the engine. Now check the fluid again. Once started the fluid will now flow thru trans. The read on the stick now is right at full cold mark. As the engine warms it rises. After roughly 15min or so the read is at low hot mark. Done. Once you drive the fluid will hit between the low-high hash hot zone.
Exactly!
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Old 07-31-2021, 12:11 AM   #6280
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Exactly!

Forgot to add 1 thing...5 quarts exactly with just a pan drop/filter change (4L80E).
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Old 07-31-2021, 08:34 AM   #6281
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Forgot to add 1 thing...5 quarts exactly with just a pan drop/filter change (4L80E).
When I purchased our already great condition 36K mile "Sweetie" [1996 25' Tiffin Allegro equipped with one of the last 1995 454 tbi's] I immediatly put her into my my transmission specialist's big shop [he's been doing all my rigs for over 30 years]. Had his guys go through it lock stock and barrel. When they were finished every mechanical and electrical item had been checked and rechecked as well as replaced where suggested/needed. All new hoses and fluids were of course part of the program. Final cost was $4,950. With the great starter price I payed for this little beauty [she'd been owned by a fastidious commercial airplane pilot] that expense for a complete go-through was warranted. It provided me a mechanically and electrically like new RV for a total investment of under $14K. I was happy with that!

So.... to get back onto your program of maintaining a 4L80E transmission. Jim [a magician in rebuilding and maintaining transmissions] told me that 4L80E is one of the best trany's ever built for gas rigs such as our RV.

And, as I know from decades of many different size and powered vehicles owned... timely replaced fluid and filter maintenance is the #1 way to keep every trany running strong. Trany fluid cooler is #1a.
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Old 07-31-2021, 09:18 AM   #6282
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Finally after months of coaxing my Thetford Aria to keep working gave in and installed the new slide mechanism and seals that I bought in February. A fairly easy job considering the weight of the toilet. Took 3 hours overall and that included the pressure washer time to get everything clean.

The included instructions where good and the write up on IRV from 2018 was even better.

Now it works and holds water and no more playing with buttons to get it to close.

Also found it cheaper to run my Aquahot on Diesel than electric when I am paying for the power. That I found confusing. Two months of numbers back that up.

Terry
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Old 08-03-2021, 10:38 PM   #6283
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RoadMaster P30 Front Sway Bar

Finally received my Road Master front sway bar last Thursday. (Ordered the bar on May 11th.) Quality steel has become a bit hard to get, which was 90+% of the delay.

Thank you Pat C., at Etrailer for staying on top of my order.

Reason for ordering was to see how much the bigger bar will help with wind push. Have always noticed how much the RV wiggles from cars passing by (50+ MPH) when we are waiting at a left turn red-light. Always wondered how much this contributes to push from vehicles passing when we are at freeway speeds.

Stock bar is 1-1/4". The RoadMaster bar is 1-5/8". The picture below depicts the size difference between the stock and aftermarket sway bar. The kit comes with everything you may need, including new grade 8 hardware.

Note: For comparison my 80 Buick Regal hot rod has a 1-1/8" bar, and my 1973 Opel GT has a 1" bar. Both vehicles are 3800 and 2100 pounds respectively. Compared that to our RV weighing in at 13,000 pounds.

Why Chevrolet chose to put in such a small front bar is head scratching. The rear bar in comparison is massive at 1-3/4"

Will see how she rolls at speed tomorrow.

P30: Roadmaster 1-5/8" Front Anti-Sway Bar and Bushing Kit
Item # RM-1109-116
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Old 08-04-2021, 01:20 PM   #6284
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Finally received my Road Master front sway bar last Thursday. (Ordered the bar on May 11th.) Quality steel has become a bit hard to get, which was 90+% of the delay.

Thank you Pat C., at Etrailer for staying on top of my order.

Reason for ordering was to see how much the bigger bar will help with wind push. Have always noticed how much the RV wiggles from cars passing by (50+ MPH) when we are waiting at a left turn red-light. Always wondered how much this contributes to push from vehicles passing when we are at freeway speeds.

Stock bar is 1-1/4". The RoadMaster bar is 1-5/8". The picture below depicts the size difference between the stock and aftermarket sway bar. The kit comes with everything you may need, including new grade 8 hardware.

Note: For comparison my 80 Buick Regal hot rod has a 1-1/8" bar, and my 1973 Opel GT has a 1" bar. Both vehicles are 3800 and 2100 pounds respectively. Compared that to our RV weighing in at 13,000 pounds.

Why Chevrolet chose to put in such a small front bar is head scratching. The rear bar in comparison is massive at 1-3/4"

Will see how she rolls at speed tomorrow.

P30: Roadmaster 1-5/8" Front Anti-Sway Bar and Bushing Kit
Item # RM-1109-116
Looks nice. How's the ride vs before?
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Old 08-06-2021, 12:55 PM   #6285
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Ordered new starter and starter solenoid. Ordered anode rods. Going back this afternoon to see if I can troubleshoot the ATS.
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Old 08-06-2021, 01:17 PM   #6286
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Looks nice. How's the ride vs before?
Ride quality stayed the same. Definitely noticed less sway going up the freeway clover leaf. Also noticed less push from semis, although it was not windy at the time. Normally, around here the wind picks up and blows hard late afternoon. Will get more driving feedback crossing the Dumbarton bridge then.

Our coach seems to sit a bit higher than average. This was causing quite a bit of bushing deflection, at the sway bar to control arm bushing. To alleviate this, fabricate two 1-1/2" square tubing brackets, (did welded in bolt sleeves). This effectively lowered and align the sway bar with the control arm mounts, eliminating most of the unwanted sway bar pre-load.
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