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Old 09-10-2021, 04:41 AM   #6329
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Well like a dumba$$ I have been chasing the wrong sensor to the right gauge. As it so happens the sensor in the radiator is a Low Coolant warning and that actually works. My temp sensor is located on the cylinder head so I get to pop the doghouse off again and trace the correct wire this time. Maybe Iíll get lucky again and find a loose or damaged terminal at the contact point.
Hey Tidy Tabby it sounds to me like your approaching troubleshooting exactly like you should be! Theres a "definition" of troubleshooting among mechanics. Finding what the problem is NOT. Please post when you get it all straitened out, the curiosity is killing me!
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Old 09-10-2021, 06:50 AM   #6330
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I found a local Hydraulic shop that is going to rebuild one of my Jacks. He said they might even have the seals already and it should only be 1-2 hours of labor plus parts.
I did have to remove the jack and take it in to them. Very simple job but not easy. The jack is heavy and the bolts were stubborn.
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Old 09-10-2021, 10:54 AM   #6331
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Hey Tidy Tabby it sounds to me like your approaching troubleshooting exactly like you should be! Theres a "definition" of troubleshooting among mechanics. Finding what the problem is NOT. Please post when you get it all straitened out, the curiosity is killing me!
One step at a time.
Found the temp sensor, the wire pings back to the plug without grounding, but running a jumper wire from the sensor to the gauge still buries the needle past the max so I am not certain what is causing the trouble.
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Old 09-10-2021, 02:01 PM   #6332
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When the wire is disconnected, does the gauge move to full scale or not move? When the wire is connected, does the gauge do the opposite? On my Cummins, there are two Temp Sensors on the engine, one for the gauge and the other for the idiot light. The one for the idiot light is a simple on/off switch and the gauge is a variable resistor. If you put an Ohm Meter on the sensor for the light, it should read infinite resistance since the engine should not be overheating. The Gauge sensor should read some resistance changing as the temperature of the sensor changes. Some sensors increase the resistance as they heat up and others lower their temperature as they heat up.
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Old 09-10-2021, 02:36 PM   #6333
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Originally Posted by Sundancer268 View Post
When the wire is disconnected, does the gauge move to full scale or not move? When the wire is connected, does the gauge do the opposite? On my Cummins, there are two Temp Sensors on the engine, one for the gauge and the other for the idiot light. The one for the idiot light is a simple on/off switch and the gauge is a variable resistor. If you put an Ohm Meter on the sensor for the light, it should read infinite resistance since the engine should not be overheating. The Gauge sensor should read some resistance changing as the temperature of the sensor changes. Some sensors increase the resistance as they heat up and others lower their temperature as they heat up.


On some temp gushes, the power goes to the gauge then to the sensor which grounds the circuit when temp is reached
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Old 09-11-2021, 12:38 AM   #6334
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Upgraded the upgaded front brakes

After a near failure of brakes over a mountain pass I had no business on, I started phase one of a total brake system upgrade on Flatnose Frank, my renovated ď72 RevCon.

Almost exactly a year ago, I rebuilt the front suspension and added Wilwood brake calipers and the base level pads (BP 10ís). I paired them with basic replacement rotors. They worked ok for normal use, but faded badly under heat of a long twisty 10% downhill grade.

So before I tackle a serious fab and retrofit to install rear discs to replace the old Ford drum setup, I upgraded the front rotors with slotted Stop Tech units and the BP 40 compound pads from Wilwood. Test drive affirms the better bite of the more aggressive pads. Next week I begin the rear axle tear down and custom retrofit of a 14Ē Wilwood setup back there.
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Old 09-11-2021, 06:25 PM   #6335
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Transmission fluid and filter change, and replaced the pressure switch manifold (PSM) while I was in there. Finally, after six years of ownership, the transmissions annoying habit of randomly dropping into 2nd gear under light throttle has gone away! I'll expound on my experience if anyone is interested.
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Old 09-11-2021, 09:10 PM   #6336
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MOST gages used to test by grounding the wire= gage would go MAX, vs broken wire would stick on zero or low side; assume new is the same? For lights, e.g Temp Switch/ OIL Switch, = 1-wire= grounded=LIGHT ON; Two wire = transmitters for gages. LUCK to ya
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Old 09-14-2021, 02:16 PM   #6337
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Put it out of its misery!!!
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Old 09-14-2021, 08:32 PM   #6338
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Iím interested. . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by bill06447 View Post
Transmission fluid and filter change, and replaced the pressure switch manifold (PSM) while I was in there. Finally, after six years of ownership, the transmissions annoying habit of randomly dropping into 2nd gear under light throttle has gone away! I'll expound on my experience if anyone is interested.
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Old Yesterday, 04:12 PM   #6339
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We packed it up and went to a park for 6 days.
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Old Yesterday, 04:48 PM   #6340
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Iím interested. . . .
At 30mph and minimal throttle the 4L80E transmission would hunt from 3-2 and back again. The last year it began doing this at higher speeds as well (OD to 2 for a brief period). I checked TPS voltage and operation, vacuum lines, changed the ATF, changed the 2 speed sensors, still happening. I picked up a Tech 1 scan tool at a yard sale recently and hooked it up after our latest outing. I noticed idling in Park there was a screen that would flip from "P_N_" to "DRIVE2" with no input from me. Further digging showed this to be controlled by a pressure switch in the transmission, so I dropped the pan again, picked up a replacement switch and so far all has been well.

I'm sure Ford transmissions would have something similar.
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Old Yesterday, 06:10 PM   #6341
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At 30mph and minimal throttle the 4L80E transmission would hunt from 3-2 and back again. The last year it began doing this at higher speeds as well (OD to 2 for a brief period). I checked TPS voltage and operation, vacuum lines, changed the ATF, changed the 2 speed sensors, still happening. I picked up a Tech 1 scan tool at a yard sale recently and hooked it up after our latest outing. I noticed idling in Park there was a screen that would flip from "P_N_" to "DRIVE2" with no input from me. Further digging showed this to be controlled by a pressure switch in the transmission, so I dropped the pan again, picked up a replacement switch and so far all has been well.

I'm sure Ford transmissions would have something similar.
Believe I also have 4L80E trany in our 1996 25T Tiffin Allegro with 454 tbi engine [even though in 96 GM switched 454's to full fi this rig must have gotten one of the leftovers from 95??].

"Sweetie" has under 40K miles. All fluids/filters are recent. Drives like a champ. Circumstance I've noticed is backing up a really steep, twisty incline on our property. There's little to no room to increase reverse speed before heavy grade begins. If/when I do coerce the RV to gain some reverse speed the trany pretty well pulls it up the steep incline. If I don't get reverse speed up then at peak of the grade the RV simply stops, even with engine revving fairly high. I don't let this high rev with no movement last but for a second. Then, I go back down the short, steep incline. Reason I don't want to drive up frontwards is because there's no turn around room... and I'd be scared s-less to back down the grade [due to fact I've seen other "front engine" weighted heavy rigs get in trouble there. Oh and by the way, did I mention the two twists/turns, one at bottom and one at top.

My predicament is: I carved out a parking place at bottom of driveway by road [we live in rural area]. Unfortunately, it's tight quarters make it difficult to work on or clean the RV.

So, my question: Is it normal for a 4L80E trany to basically "stall out" in reverse when there is little to no reverse speed and a very heavy grade is encountered?

Any suggestion/info/knowledge appreciated. Currently I'm not trying to back up the steep grade again... even though with a try or two I have been able to get enough speed to make it. But, I do not want to stress the reverse mechanism too much inside the 4L80E trany.
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Old Today, 08:32 PM   #6342
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Believe I also have 4L80E trany in our 1996 25T Tiffin Allegro with 454 tbi engine [even though in 96 GM switched 454's to full fi this rig must have gotten one of the leftovers from 95??].

"Sweetie" has under 40K miles. All fluids/filters are recent. Drives like a champ. Circumstance I've noticed is backing up a really steep, twisty incline on our property. There's little to no room to increase reverse speed before heavy grade begins. If/when I do coerce the RV to gain some reverse speed the trany pretty well pulls it up the steep incline. If I don't get reverse speed up then at peak of the grade the RV simply stops, even with engine revving fairly high. I don't let this high rev with no movement last but for a second. Then, I go back down the short, steep incline. Reason I don't want to drive up frontwards is because there's no turn around room... and I'd be scared s-less to back down the grade [due to fact I've seen other "front engine" weighted heavy rigs get in trouble there. Oh and by the way, did I mention the two twists/turns, one at bottom and one at top.

My predicament is: I carved out a parking place at bottom of driveway by road [we live in rural area]. Unfortunately, it's tight quarters make it difficult to work on or clean the RV.

So, my question: Is it normal for a 4L80E trany to basically "stall out" in reverse when there is little to no reverse speed and a very heavy grade is encountered?

Any suggestion/info/knowledge appreciated. Currently I'm not trying to back up the steep grade again... even though with a try or two I have been able to get enough speed to make it. But, I do not want to stress the reverse mechanism too much inside the 4L80E trany.

Try putting an extra 1/2 quart of ATF in it.
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