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Old 10-04-2018, 02:57 AM   #4439
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Replaced the aluminum seal screw strips at the seams between the aluminum and fiberglass sections of the body. Tried reusing the originals, but they wouldn't seal down properly.
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Old 10-04-2018, 05:31 AM   #4440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayhilc2 View Post
On my list for 89 elandan. The front support post or rail pulled away from coach body at the base, not sure how to start, I guess to support the awning , then go from there. I have found instructions very lacking in almost every repair I have made on ours, learning as I go and taking lots of pics and writing notes just in case the problem arises again. Hope your hand is ok
Your lucky the problem is at the base and not the top. The mounting screws should penetrate the structure. Are they screwed into wood or metal? If wood, thin cynayoacralate can be used to build up the wood and make a sort of anchor. I do that often in my business and it works great. If the screws go into metal you'll have to drill the clearance hole(s) in the aluminum awning frame a little larger and then use the next size larger screw. BTW if you are dealing with wood and the wood is enlarged too much a different approach may be necessary. Oh yeah minor ouch and a couple of drops of blood lost. Thanks for asking!
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Old 10-04-2018, 06:01 AM   #4441
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Installed the two, new bed shocks / supports. 115 pound struts. Work great. Easy install. Ordered with eyelet ends so I could use the same brackets so pop off, pop on!
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Old 10-05-2018, 05:20 AM   #4442
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Your lucky the problem is at the base and not the top. The mounting screws should penetrate the structure. Are they screwed into wood or metal? If wood, thin cynayoacralate can be used to build up the wood and make a sort of anchor. I do that often in my business and it works great. If the screws go into metal you'll have to drill the clearance hole(s) in the aluminum awning frame a little larger and then use the next size larger screw. BTW if you are dealing with wood and the wood is enlarged too much a different approach may be necessary. Oh yeah minor ouch and a couple of drops of blood lost. Thanks for asking!
Harris
An approach for dealing with enlarged holes in the wood is using an epoxy fairingcompound to fill said holes, then tapping them out for the proper screws. It ends up much stronger than the wood alone.
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Old 10-05-2018, 12:05 PM   #4443
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Your lucky the problem is at the base and not the top. The mounting screws should penetrate the structure. Are they screwed into wood or metal? If wood, thin cynayoacralate can be used to build up the wood and make a sort of anchor. I do that often in my business and it works great. If the screws go into metal you'll have to drill the clearance hole(s) in the aluminum awning frame a little larger and then use the next size larger screw. BTW if you are dealing with wood and the wood is enlarged too much a different approach may be necessary. Oh yeah minor ouch and a couple of drops of blood lost. Thanks for asking!
Harris
I do not recommend using self-tapping screws for sheet metal, especially aluminum. Instead, make a real thread using Rivetnuts. They install like pop rivets but leave you with a steel thread.

See https://www.amazon.com/rivet-nuts/b?node=16410051 for an example of this.

Self-tapping screws make a mess of the metal and have very little depth of engagement which is why they frequently pull out. A rivet-nut will give you a quarter inch of thread and clamp the light sheet metal between two rings of steel.

I just put everything in front of the radiator back on my motorhome and used these in 1/4-20 size. They will not pull out and I can easily unbolt components and replace them without worrying about the strength of the joint.
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Old 10-05-2018, 08:17 PM   #4444
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Alternator Replaced 105Amp

While taking Maggie the RV to work on our rental house, in the dark early Monday morning, she suddenly developed a loud whine. At first I though that I'd hurt the transmission climbing the overpass at rush hour, or the power steering pump.

As I continued on, I noticed that the noise grew less and less pronounced. Reaching the rental house I crawled under neath and placed a screwdriver against my ear and the transmission. No noise,...yes. Did the same with the power steering pump. Nothing. Finally I check the alternator, and heard the noise clearly through the screwdriver.

Unplugged the GM wiring harness from the alternator, and the noise went completely away. phew. At least it was a $75 alternator (Rockauto) and not a $2000 transmission.

The alternator replacement took me less than an hour tonight, and I even tighten the upper radiator hose clamp that was dripping coolant to boot.
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Old 10-06-2018, 04:37 AM   #4445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrehmus View Post
I do not recommend using self-tapping screws for sheet metal, especially aluminum. Instead, make a real thread using Rivetnuts. They install like pop rivets but leave you with a steel thread.

See https://www.amazon.com/rivet-nuts/b?node=16410051 for an example of this.

Self-tapping screws make a mess of the metal and have very little depth of engagement which is why they frequently pull out. A rivet-nut will give you a quarter inch of thread and clamp the light sheet metal between two rings of steel.

I just put everything in front of the radiator back on my motorhome and used these in 1/4-20 size. They will not pull out and I can easily unbolt components and replace them without worrying about the strength of the joint.
Thanks for the info, definately will be going this way
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Old 10-06-2018, 04:32 PM   #4446
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I installed gas springs on the bed platform and also new chrome rim covers. They look great!
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Old 10-07-2018, 06:04 AM   #4447
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Finally got around to fixing the "whole house" fan. Man what a mess! Ended up pulling the whole thing apart to discover it had been worked on before by someone that had no clue how to wire it properly. Once the hot and ground wires were determined I cut everything else off and started from scratch. New on off switch and 3 speed control switch. Works great now. Surprised how much air it moves on high. Will be nice to have functional again when camping in the fall and spring.
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Old 10-07-2018, 09:14 AM   #4448
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Installed a new drawer latch (dang plastic latch keeps breaking, 5 times now), Installed a water saver shower head valve (for use when taking Navy showers).
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Old 10-07-2018, 09:44 AM   #4449
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What did you do to your old RV today?

Why is it called a Navy shower? It seems that this is the last organization to have a need to conserve water.
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Old 10-07-2018, 01:13 PM   #4450
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Why is it called a Navy shower? It seems that this is the last organization to have a need to conserve water.
Fresh water is a precious commodity at sea. Desalinization is a time and energy consuming process.

At least, that's what I've been told.

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Old 10-08-2018, 09:05 AM   #4451
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Why is it called a Navy shower? It seems that this is the last organization to have a need to conserve water.
It was/is Naval speak for saving water prior to desalination plants being put aboard ships. Even today water conservation aboard Naval vessels dictates that persons use this technique to save water. It's etymology is traceable back to the days of sailing vessels where water was carried aboard, not made aboard.
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Old 10-08-2018, 11:58 AM   #4452
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It was/is Naval speak for saving water prior to desalination plants being put aboard ships. Even today water conservation aboard Naval vessels dictates that persons use this technique to save water. It's etymology is traceable back to the days of sailing vessels where water was carried aboard, not made aboard.
If you waste water on a submarine, you get to stand watches on the water still as punishment. Only food personnel are allowed and required to shower every day on a submarine. While the newer submarines can make a fair amount of water, the stills do generate some noise and require additional power which itself also raises noise levels. Noise can literally be the death of a submarine.
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