Community Forums

D Gardiner · 11-08-2019, 04:42 PM

Received the Haltec HE-343 from Grainger this afternoon.

Can report:
1) They will only fit truck metal valve stems (will Not fit on rubber valve stems)
2) They threads are nice and tight, (use a 11mm wrench to tighten)
3) They come with a check valve cap, (like THenne1713 suggested)
4) It is much quicker for me to add or remove air
5) If the hose breaks, you will not loose air

I would have to the say this was a complete success.

Kenvb · 11-08-2019, 04:42 PM

I phoned Freightliner in Edmonton..they wont even look at it. too old .so we are trying to sell it. and if cant will use it for our lake lot 50 miles away. we bought a smaller FORD POWERED C Class now that puts you thru windshield if brake like I do on the Itasca .

F4Jock · 11-09-2019, 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kenvb

I phoned Freightliner in Edmonton..they wont even look at it. too old .so we are trying to sell it. and if cant will use it for our lake lot 50 miles away. we bought a smaller FORD POWERED C Class now that puts you thru windshield if brake like I do on the Itasca .

PM me please.

TY

Bubba1 · 11-10-2019, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ericb760

I have this same problem. The awning is relatively new and was installed by the PO. There is no tension in it and it is a pain to roll it by hand, especially if you are alone. How do I tell if the spring is broken or just unwound?

Ericb760.
Check the right awning arm end cap for broken or lost rivets or screws. If any are missing the spring may have been able to unwind. If none of the hardware is missing or damaged, the spring is most likely broken. The spring looks like a smaller version of a garage door roller spring. There are installation instructions on the Carefree of Colorado website. The replacement spring I bought had instructions with it. I was able to replace the spring without taking the awning off the coach. I supported the right side of the awning on the coach with bungee cords to hold I up while I replaced the broken spring. Hope this helps.

Mike H

THenne1713 · 11-12-2019, 07:24 AM

On my 18yo rig when bought, was told roof was 2yo when he bought it, 2yrs earlier, and later found that awnings over 8ft use two springs, and rear spring not would, so only would rewind 1/2-way. Suspicion is that error was the roof installer did not wind rear spring, and owner or new owner assumed was broken. I converted mine to manual rewind, and found springs to be in like new condition.

J-N-Lham · 11-13-2019, 12:08 AM

falcon where are you located? I cannot put water in mine, the hose would freeze. Let alone me.

Ericb760 · 11-14-2019, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bubba1

Ericb760.
Check the right awning arm end cap for broken or lost rivets or screws. If any are missing the spring may have been able to unwind. If none of the hardware is missing or damaged, the spring is most likely broken. The spring looks like a smaller version of a garage door roller spring. There are installation instructions on the Carefree of Colorado website. The replacement spring I bought had instructions with it. I was able to replace the spring without taking the awning off the coach. I supported the right side of the awning on the coach with bungee cords to hold I up while I replaced the broken spring. Hope this helps.

Mike H

The first time I unrolled it the end cap came apart and I had to guess how it went back together. I think that after coming apart the spring just unwound. I'm still trying to figure out the proper procedure for adding tension back into the spring.

Bubba1 · 11-15-2019, 12:39 AM

Ericb760
To rewind the spring it has to be turned counter clock wise between 17 to 20 turns according to the instructions that came with my replacement spring. One complete rotation is one turn. There is a plastic collar in the end of the awning tube the end cap is attached to. Pull the collar out away from the tube and pull the end of the spring out. At the end of the spring is a tube with two notches on it that connects to the awning arm. I used the awning arm to wind up the spring. If your not able to use the awning arm you can use a screw driver or some other suitable straight tool to wind up the spring. Once the spring is wound up, pin the spring using one of the holes on collar. Make sure you have the end cap on the collar. Then slide the whole assembly back in to the awning tube. Rivet or screw the end cap and collar back to the awning tube, Then reattach the awning arm to the coach.

Mike H

rudybme · 11-17-2019, 08:59 PM

I am contemplating removing the shower stall in my Itaca Cambria so I can secure the rattling pipes behind it. Anyone ever remove done this?

rcnuts · 11-18-2019, 05:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rudybme

I am contemplating removing the shower stall in my Itaca Cambria so I can secure the rattling pipes behind it. Anyone ever remove done this?

I didnt remove the shower stall to gain access to the piping but I did remove an entire stall and base for a total re-do. Yeah, its a pain. Have you considered drilling a few 1/4" holes in the opposite side, hopefully inside a cabinet, and injecting some expandable foam? That would secure the rattling pipes. In my business Ive done that many time securing loose plaster / lath in older homes. Some foam expands less. Thats probably what you want so the stall side doesn't bubble, warp, or push. If you go that route Id stay with the job with a small flat board or piece of plywood to push back on the stall side to keep it flat.

ga traveler · 11-18-2019, 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rudybme

I am contemplating removing the shower stall in my Itaca Cambria so I can secure the rattling pipes behind it. Anyone ever remove done this?

Why not just buy some foam insulation strips and slip them over the pipes? There is usually a small access for the shower faucet where you can slide the covers in.

MarvinG · 11-19-2019, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcnuts

Have you considered drilling a few 1/4" holes in the opposite side, hopefully inside a cabinet, and injecting some expandable foam? That would secure the rattling pipes. In my business Ive done that many time securing loose plaster / lath in older homes. Some foam expands less. Thats probably what you want so the stall side doesn't bubble, warp, or push. If you go that route Id stay with the job with a small flat board or piece of plywood to push back on the stall side to keep it flat.

I second this idea. I use foam a lot in rehabbing houses for rental or flipping. It is totally amazing what can be done with it to make permanent, high-quality repairs, fill in voids, insulate, make fake trim where trim is broken or missing. I even glued some shower tile back and repaired the rotted backing for the tile with foam recently.

Greg20d · 11-19-2019, 09:15 PM

I moved about 2 months ago and havnt been doing much tll this week.
we moved marty to the driveway and started to prep it for a trip to see my new Granddaughter.

D Gardiner · 11-21-2019, 12:24 AM

Had a leaking main water line replaced at our rent house today. The wallet is now $2,800 lighter.

Took the RV there so I could inspect the work, which give me a good excuse to both clean the RV, and determine why the rear leak springs were squeaking. The squeak began after we drove thought a massive rain storm, last Christmas coming back from Yosemite.

Was not sure if the leaf spring eye bushings or leafs were squeezing. Used the 20 ton bottle jack to unload one rear leaf at a time, and spray in some lubricant between each leaf, (while keeping the bushings dry).

Can report that the squeak is gone! Which means I only need to replace the 20 year old bushings. After some searching online thought the GM parts Website I found the oem part numbers. Unfortunately, GM has discontinued then. Luckily they are still available online from truck specialty part shops. Will order then next week, for my big Spring 2020 project. Gives me another excuse for using my shop press.