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Old 09-17-2017, 01:33 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 4x4van View Post
And keep in mind that the 3 WH winterizing valves should never all be in the same position (they way they are now). Handles aligned with hose means open; handles perpendicular to hoses mean closed. For normal use, the "in" & "out" valves should be open and the center bypass valve should be closed. Opposite for winterizing.
Thank you for that. A sort of left loosey, righty tighty thing I can relate to.
However, if I can get the sink pipe fixed and get everything flushed out (to see if it all even works) and then drained back out, is there anything to "winterize"?
This is the last thing I have to do before getting tires and deciding where and when to go which I don't think I am going to be fully ready to do right when winter is arriving (although sadly, we would probably be warmer in the RV than in this little house we rent)
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Old 09-29-2017, 11:05 PM   #16
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Some new piping and a faucet (not pictured) to "show off". Strange, old faucet shown.
Yes, I hired it done.
He still has to return on the p traps and other black pipes that are cracked and then hopefully, since he is a plumber, we can run water thru everything and check the hot water heater and water pump function.
Anyone know if there is a button to turn on to activate either of the above or will the heater kick in itself with the unit plugged into house electricity?
Thanks for the assistance!
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Old 09-30-2017, 07:18 AM   #17
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I'm sure you've found these resources
https://www.google.com/search?q=91+h...utf-8&oe=utf-8

Here is a link to some images that might be helpful to you
https://www.pinterest.com/hdwhitis/holiday-rambler-rv/
Check out the plumbing pics, here's one - https://goo.gl/images/ExrPX7

Should give you a visual idea of the flow. See the bypass on the water heater.
As for the water pump you should have a switch or more than one switch to turn it on. I have 3 - one in the main control cabinet, one in the bathroom and the last is out in the wet bay. You need 12V to use the pump, so make sure you have the coach plugged in. The pump only pulls water from the water tank so fill it enough to give the pump something to pump.
Have you figured out the wet bay yet? Where to attach the fill hose, where the tank fill valve is, and possibly find the pump there (mine is in the wet bay) since it attaches to the water tank.
Once you have power and have found the switch for the pump, press it and listen - you'll hear the pump. You open the faucets inside to purge the air from the lines and anything in the lines, like antifreeze from previous winterizing.

As for the water heater it depends on the brand. I have a suburban that has electric, gas and also engine loop like yours. There should be a switch in the control cabinet for electric and also gas. My suburban has an electric switch on the front of the heater that must be on to use the switch in the control cabinet. The electric switch looks like a household type switch with a red light next to it. The gas switch is more like the toggle switches you see in the coach, has a light on the switch panel and a "S" on the plate.

Let us know what you find.
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Old 10-02-2017, 12:29 PM   #18
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Another update......sink issues taken care of.
Put water about half way into tank under bed to find this this and this:

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The turn knob on the grey lines running from under the bad toward the bathroom and or water pump produced a second leaking of which my son said was wayyy under the rv. But prior to turning that knob, it was already leaking at the fitting leading into the water (and currently still is).
Obviously no sound of any kind when I hit the only water pump switch I have ever seen and when I pressed on the lever beside the toilet which had nothing in it, nothing happened except opening the "flush" hole.

The first photo is show the grey line behind the city water connection of which is all leaking front and back.
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Old 10-02-2017, 05:20 PM   #19
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I can't help you on the plumbing since I haven't dealt with that type before. Others will chime in to help. Sorry.
On the pump, unplug the electrical connector and jumper 12V to the connections and see if the pump comes to life. If the switches are the Intellitec type you can still get them or maybe you can repair them. Not much to them.
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Old 10-07-2017, 05:16 AM   #20
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I would recommend you replace all of the gray polybutylene tubing and fittings. The poly is replaced with PEX tubing and copper/brass fittings they use the same type crimp ring but will eliminate the possibility of the poly fittings breaking. There are poly to pex crimp splices that will let you attach pex to poly where you cannot remove all of it. The poly fittings were the main problem with failure. they would split and crack unexpectedly. The sink risers etc fittings are available and will eliminate the plastic poly fittings. I delt with this in my coach and in a mobile home I owned. In my coach I fill my water tank and use the coach waterpump for inside use. I do not hook to city water and leave it turned on just in case I were to be away the amount of flooding/damage would be limited to my 110 gallons of water from the storage tank vs a limitless supply from a hose hookup,also sharkbite fittings work well on pex tubing also for the places you cannot get the crimper in to. just my 2 cents
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Old 10-07-2017, 11:02 AM   #21
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My last RV had the grey lines/fittings. Over the course of about 13 years, I only had about 3-4 leaks. Never had a leak in the lines themselves, only at the fittings, and once found, a simple hand tightening of the offending fitting solved it every time. Overtightening them with pliers WILL split the fittings.

While I suppose it would be possible to replace some of the lines with PEX, there is likely no possible way to replace all of them due to lack of accessibility. Shark bite fittings could be used where needed. Flair-it fittings are easy to install for PEX lines without a crimping tool (my entire RV is plumbed with PEX/Flair-it).
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Old 10-07-2017, 02:43 PM   #22
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Ok, my plumber dude did this today because of the leaking and streaming as in earlier posted photos.
Problem is there is apparently no way to seat the "faucet" like it was.
I found an unplugged red wire on the water pump which upon plugging it in, brought it to life, yay me, LOL
However, with the tank under my bed a little over half full, I find that water doesn't come from the faucet nor does it flow into the toilet.
What am I doing wrong!!!???
Also when I plugged in that red wire, water flowed OUT of the bottom, new line he ran and out of the thing I would otherwise screw my hose in to for city water use.




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Old 10-07-2017, 05:04 PM   #23
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Glad to hear the pump is working. 1 step at a time.
Sounds like you may have a "check valve" bad - only lets water flow one way.
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Old 10-07-2017, 09:46 PM   #24
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First thing, MH plumbing and electrical is designed for efficiency in manufacturing. The engineers that mention maintenance concerns faced a firing squad, stopped that, dead in its tracks.

The poly butyl is the same size as PEX so you can change over to PEX when and where you can. As mentioned, Sharkbite is your friend, just a very expensive friend so grab a PEX crimper and always have an assortment of fittings on hand.

As for your holding tank, I had a fresh water tank in Cedar Creek 5th wheel that had a side outlet and was only good for half of the capacity. I pulled it and changed the outlet to the bottom and it worked fine after that.
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Old 10-07-2017, 09:53 PM   #25
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Glad to hear the pump is working. 1 step at a time.
Sounds like you may have a "check valve" bad - only lets water flow one way.
Meaning?
I had galley faucet water when the hose was attached. I never have had water in the toilet or is there not supposed to be (like in a home toilet)?
I don't guess I have water in the hot water tank but unless that matters for galley faucet, I don't plan to heat the water anyway. (because I don't want to deal with propane)
I'm seriously tempted to go to an RV park or knock on the guys door whose RV is chilling in his driveway with the water hose attached and ask if they would let me video what to turn and where or I am never going to figure it out.
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Old 10-08-2017, 06:23 AM   #26
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Quote:
However, with the tank under my bed a little over half full, I find that water doesn't come from the faucet nor does it flow into the toilet.
What am I doing wrong!!!???
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6x16inside View Post
Meaning?
I had galley faucet water when the hose was attached.
Are you saying that with the pump on you don't get water out of the galley faucet?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 6x16inside View Post
Meaning?
I never have had water in the toilet or is there not supposed to be (like in a home toilet)?
I am not sure on your specific toilet but on mine you lift the handle to fill the bowl and push the handle down to flush. The toilet doesn't fill by itself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 6x16inside View Post
I don't guess I have water in the hot water tank but unless that matters for galley faucet, I don't plan to heat the water anyway. (because I don't want to deal with propane)
You should have an electric option on the water heater. You have a multi mode heater - propane, electric and also you have the engine coolant going through the tank.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 6x16inside View Post
I'm seriously tempted to go to an RV park or knock on the guys door whose RV is chilling in his driveway with the water hose attached and ask if they would let me video what to turn and where or I am never going to figure it out.
Maybe not a bad idea.
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Old 10-08-2017, 11:24 AM   #27
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Are you saying that with the pump on you don't get water out of the galley faucet?


I am not sure on your specific toilet but on mine you lift the handle to fill the bowl and push the handle down to flush. The toilet doesn't fill by itself.


I'm saying I haven't seen galley water since removing my hose from the city water inlet. Even after tightening the fitting to the pump and finding and plugging in the wayward red wire. Plumber dude did not do anything other than change the leaking grey lines for white, possibly PVC and then water is coming OUT of the city water line.
I try the toilet thing since I didn't know it lifted up.
The storage water tank drain is below and to the right of the sewer bay.

I had the guy remove the water lines and cap everything off involved in the bathroom sink. Could that be the issue?
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Old 10-08-2017, 11:26 AM   #28
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Never mind. It is PEX.
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