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03-09-2020, 07:13 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 36
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Wire Identification
Well the snow is finally gone, time to get back at the re model...
I was taking the old carpet off the dash area above the doghouse when I seen some burnt wires. I will replace the plug and wires of course but would like to figure out where the go or come from so I can see and fix what made them melt it the 1st place. I have the wire diagrams downloaded but having trouble figuring out what ones they are. Any help would be appreciated, I know wiring is a pain sometimes. 
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1988 31ft Itasca Suncruiser
Chev 454
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03-09-2020, 08:15 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 464
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What doesn't work when you unplug the connector? Winnebago has pretty good markings on the wires. Can you read anything?
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2000 Winnebago Adventurer
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03-09-2020, 08:41 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 36
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I am in the midst of re modeling the RV so there is a lot of stuff disconnected already, so can't be sure what may not be working. Was hoping to track it down before I put everything back together again.
I didnt see any markings on the wires but I will have another look. The colors of the wires dont match up to the wiring diagrams that I have.
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1988 31ft Itasca Suncruiser
Chev 454
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03-10-2020, 07:50 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: North Central Florida
Posts: 830
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Where do the wires go ultimately? I have a 1987 Class A built on a Chevrolet P30 Chassis. I have the same color wiring that went to a couple of the sensors that were part of the smog pump system.
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03-10-2020, 07:58 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 3,165
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Burned wiring is generally caused by Loose connections.
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2011 Keystone Sprinter 323 BHS. Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale MA. Retired Master Electrician. All Motor homes are RV's. All RV's are not Motor homes.
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03-20-2020, 08:47 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brob
Where do the wires go ultimately? I have a 1987 Class A built on a Chevrolet P30 Chassis. I have the same color wiring that went to a couple of the sensors that were part of the smog pump system.
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The right side of the plug wires (yellow/blk,Tan,Green) go into the harness and disappear. The left side (yellow,green,tan) run to a plug into a relay. (see pic). Looking at the wiring diagrams that I have, The wiring colors match up to something listed as "smart stick" and the only resistor I can see on the wiring diagrams is linked to the AC controls.  Not sure if any of that made sense lol.
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1988 31ft Itasca Suncruiser
Chev 454
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03-20-2020, 10:07 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 464
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That's a diode in the picture. It's usually used to stop a circuit back-feed.
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2000 Winnebago Adventurer
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03-23-2020, 10:53 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 36
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wires ended up going to the headlights. I knew the headlights were not working before and was tracing some wires for them last fall...obviously the wrong ones! oh well at least that part is fixed, almost...
when I click on the lever or smart stick as i believe its called i dont get high beams. The lever feels all sloppy, not really any click that would indicate hi/lo was working. Is the smart stick the issue? or the relay that it runs into?
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1988 31ft Itasca Suncruiser
Chev 454
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03-24-2020, 10:53 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Capistrano Beach, California
Posts: 4,465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron B.C
The right side of the plug wires (yellow/blk,Tan,Green) go into the harness and disappear. The left side (yellow,green,tan) run to a plug into a relay. (see pic). Looking at the wiring diagrams that I have, The wiring colors match up to something listed as "smart stick" and the only resistor I can see on the wiring diagrams is linked to the AC controls. Attachment 278575 Not sure if any of that made sense lol. |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim18655
That's a diode in the picture. It's usually used to stop a circuit back-feed.
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Yes, there appears to be a diode between the red and light green wires feeding the plug. That looks to be a retro-fit as I've never seen a factory install done that way.
From your last post, about the headlights, the plug appears to connect to the headlight relay and a diode between the relay coil hot and ground would prevent an electrical feedback when the power is cut and the coil "collapses." Relays used in certain circuits will have the diode internally to prevent the feedback. It appears that someone may have added it to this circuit because there was a feedback problem.
The click you usually hear when working the high/low beam stalk comes from the relay. If the relay is bad or the current to the relay is bad due to the stalk switch or wiring, the lights will not change and the relay will not operate.
Finally, I agree that the burnt ends generally are a result of poor connections.
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Larry, Eileen, and Finley
2004 Alpine 36FDDS
Third motor home, first Alpine, no need for another.
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03-24-2020, 06:58 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 36
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Yes, the small orange wire runs up to the smart stick lever. That lever feels like im stirring a bowl of oatmeal when its moved. Not sure if that can be fixed or may need a replacement lever. Question on the relay, is there a specific type I should be replacing it with? as I too have never seen one with a diode hooked in.
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1988 31ft Itasca Suncruiser
Chev 454
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03-25-2020, 11:07 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Capistrano Beach, California
Posts: 4,465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron B.C
Yes, the small orange wire runs up to the smart stick lever. That lever feels like im stirring a bowl of oatmeal when its moved. Not sure if that can be fixed or may need a replacement lever. Question on the relay, is there a specific type I should be replacing it with? as I too have never seen one with a diode hooked in.
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If you can identify the wires that come from the stalk, you may be able to determine if the stalk switch is good. I don't know if the stalk supplies power or a ground to the relay, but you could check with your meter. If you do not get either a ground connection or power to the plug when operating the stalk, then the stalk switch is likely bad.
As for the relay itself, again, you will have to check the specific number you have with what the OEM supplied. If you can access the relay, it will typically have a diode shown on the schematic on the cover. Some do not have a schematic, however.
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Larry, Eileen, and Finley
2004 Alpine 36FDDS
Third motor home, first Alpine, no need for another.
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