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Old 12-30-2024, 08:05 PM   #1
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12v fridge, batteries, solar

I am looking for some advice on how to address poor battery performance and a power hungry refrigerator/coach. We camp at locations 90% of the time without hookups. I am a bit of a DIY fan and would love to do the project in-house.


We have a Nexus 30TSC.
House batteries are (2)Midwest 27DC-RV batteries
Inverter is a TruePower 1000PS
Refrigerator is a GE GPV10FSNBSB rated at 12V 13.5A.
Automatic transfer switch PD52
On board Onan generator

What we noticed with this fridge as compared to our previous 5th wheel with a dual fuel(propane/electric) is the amount of noise this one makes. The 5th wheel fridge was a Dometic and was absolutely silent in comparison as we predominantly ran it on propane. Our current fridge is 12VDC/120VAC, it also is not vented to the outside

From what I’ve googled thus far- those batteries are rated for a loose estimate of 80-100 amp hours each.

We do not have Solar installed and it does not look like the coach is pre-wired for it. If we did go this route- I would lean towards a roof mounted array over portable panels to set up/take down at camp. I haven’t done enough research on the cost benefit of solar vs some sort of auto generator start.

We do camp predominant in developed campgrounds that have noise restrictions- so having the generator auto start in the middle of the night is not ideal.

On multiple occasions we’ve experienced the batteries make it through the night on the first day of camping but fail the second night. This past weekend we were able to use the emergency start on the vehicle to enable the relay that joins the house and motor battery banks(enabling enough juice to start the generator.

I do my best to raise the fridge temp from the coldest setting to cool or off for overnight but that isn’t always sufficient (especially if we run the furnace overnight in cooler temps).

On other, more frequent occasions(prior to the emergency start relay being replaced due to failure )we’ve had to use a secondary generator to charge the batteries enough to start the onboard Onan generator.

Financially- we couldn’t “fix” it all in one swoop and would probably take it in a phased approach. My gut tells me to start with the batteries, then a more efficient Fridge and possibly solar to finish it off.

What are your thoughts on what route to take?
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Old 12-30-2024, 08:21 PM   #2
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Solar and more battery is one route. Solar first. 600-800 watts?
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Old 12-30-2024, 08:51 PM   #3
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First, you are saying it is 120/12 volt. I do not see anything about the 120 volts on the tag, unless you are confusing the fact that when you plug in shore power you are assuming it is on 120. It still runs on 12 volts, but through the converter. 13.5 amps is a pretty high draw. At that rate with a 100ah battery it would 7.41 hours if it ran 24/7. It's hard to estimate how many it actually runs. With the furnace and any other convivence items running it will not last long. If your converter can handle lithium that would probably be the cheapest route to start with and you will be set up for future upgrades. I installed a dual 12volt compressor on my 20-year-old Norcold and it is rated at 11.3 amps. The door seals are not new by a long shot, and it needs to run a lot to keep up.2 6volt gc batteries will not run it all night. It is a 4-door fridge. Some people like to chastise new beis on here for starting out without a clue but don't let them get to you. They were evidently the lucky ones that knew it all right at the start.
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Old 12-30-2024, 10:17 PM   #4
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First, you are saying it is 120/12 volt. I do not see anything about the 120 volts on the tag, unless you are confusing the fact that when you plug in shore power you are assuming it is on 120. It still runs on 12 volts, but through the converter. 13.5 amps is a pretty high draw. At that rate with a 100ah battery it would 7.41 hours if it ran 24/7. It's hard to estimate how many it actually runs. With the furnace and any other convivence items running it will not last long. If your converter can handle lithium that would probably be the cheapest route to start with and you will be set up for future upgrades. I installed a dual 12volt compressor on my 20-year-old Norcold and it is rated at 11.3 amps. The door seals are not new by a long shot, and it needs to run a lot to keep up.2 6volt gc batteries will not run it all night. It is a 4-door fridge. Some people like to chastise new beis on here for starting out without a clue but don't let them get to you. They were evidently the lucky ones that knew it all right at the start.
You are correct and I was mistaken. The fridge is just 12VDC and not dual 12vdc/120VAC.

I’ve looked at all the data I can find regarding the inverter. The closest I can find to it saying that it is compatible with lithium batteries is a note saying that if you are running lead/acid to check the fluid level periodically.
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Old 12-30-2024, 11:22 PM   #5
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The fridge and batteries are performing exactly as predicted, about two days with nothing but the fridge, then a long time to recharge.



What do you want to be able to do? If you just want to be able to go 3-4 days, then going Li and faster charging off the generator would do it. If you're willing to pay a premium for solar to reduce the need for the generator, then solar will work nicely with the existing batteries. But if going solar and Li is in the future, then decide what system you want eventually. The parts aren't that costly if you're able to do the work. Used/surplus PV is cheap, get the right charge controller that will work with current lead and future Li. I'd say look into 48v all in one, but you already have a 12v fridge.
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Old 12-31-2024, 08:43 AM   #6
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The fridge and batteries are performing exactly as predicted, about two days with nothing but the fridge, then a long time to recharge.



What do you want to be able to do? If you just want to be able to go 3-4 days, then going Li and faster charging off the generator would do it. If you're willing to pay a premium for solar to reduce the need for the generator, then solar will work nicely with the existing batteries. But if going solar and Li is in the future, then decide what system you want eventually. The parts aren't that costly if you're able to do the work. Used/surplus PV is cheap, get the right charge controller that will work with current lead and future Li. I'd say look into 48v all in one, but you already have a 12v fridge.
3-4 days would cover us for the majority of our trips. I’ll do some research on the Lithium batteries and start pricing out that option vs increasing the capacity of a lead acid bank of batteries for the initial phase of improvements.

I appreciate your input.
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Old 12-31-2024, 02:38 PM   #7
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I may have missed it but how do the batteries get charged, the inverter you show does not charge. If you do have a charger you will have to confirm it will charge at the correct voltage for lithium.



Also if the chassis does charge the batteries you will have at a DC to DC charger that is capable of charging lithium.



Do your research on lithium, it isn't a plug and play solution. It does work but you have to make sure it is compatible with the rest of the hardware.







I use four 6 volt batteries ~450 amp hours with ~325 watt solar (not enough but helps). I installed a residential refrigerator (great upgrade compared to the Norcold). So I can go about 10 hours before having to recharge. So it is challenging to boon dock, I have to run generator 1.5-2 hours a day.
I am continually looking at the lithium option >>> so I'll be watching.


In the mean time what I found works for me to help extend batteries is to keep a couple water filled milk jugs frozen and at night move them into the fridge and then shut off my inverter. Batteries hardly deplete and temps still good in the AM. But can only do this a couple days.
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Old 12-31-2024, 03:43 PM   #8
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You mentioned you are a DIY fan. One way to leverage your DIY-ness is to add inexpensive solar. Here is a link with description, components, and steps. Tip: Use used solar panels and they are almost free. That cuts down on your cost a lot AND it allows you to add more solar than you think you need. I added 500w to some of my RVs with two 12 lead acid batteries and I have never once needed to use the generator to charge my batteries. But I have a propane fridge, so it takes much less AHs.


https://www.irv2.com/forums/f56/proj...er-529010.html


For your scenario, I would add 750-1000w of solar (with used panels, adding more watts is cheap). That will do two things every day you are camping and have sunlight...It will during the day get your batteries up to ~97% full by nightfall, and ALSO while charging your batteries during the day be able to run your refrigerator also. Technically, it will just be adding all those AHs to the battery which will be used to run your refrigerator. As long as you can make it through the night starting with fully charged batteries, this solution will work for you indefinitely (...as long as you have sunlight during the day for your solar).


A benefit of adding solar: It will be useful for you in your current situation AND it will also continue to be beneficial if you eventually switch to lithium (provided your solar charge controller is compatible).


Good luck!
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Old 12-31-2024, 05:20 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
I may have missed it but how do the batteries get charged, the inverter you show does not charge. If you do have a charger you will have to confirm it will charge at the correct voltage for lithium.



Also if the chassis does charge the batteries you will have at a DC to DC charger that is capable of charging lithium.



Do your research on lithium, it isn't a plug and play solution. It does work but you have to make sure it is compatible with the rest of the hardware.







I use four 6 volt batteries ~450 amp hours with ~325 watt solar (not enough but helps). I installed a residential refrigerator (great upgrade compared to the Norcold). So I can go about 10 hours before having to recharge. So it is challenging to boon dock, I have to run generator 1.5-2 hours a day.
I am continually looking at the lithium option >>> so I'll be watching.


In the mean time what I found works for me to help extend batteries is to keep a couple water filled milk jugs frozen and at night move them into the fridge and then shut off my inverter. Batteries hardly deplete and temps still good in the AM. But can only do this a couple days.
I’ll have to look to see where the charger is. I made the assumption that the inverter did that function. I’m guessing it’s hiding in the same cabinet the emergency start relay was located closest to the batteries. I’ll post up what I find.
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Old 12-31-2024, 05:44 PM   #10
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The converter is probably behind the fuse/ breaker panel. What do you use the inverter for and is it on all the time?
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Old 12-31-2024, 07:10 PM   #11
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The converter is probably behind the fuse/ breaker panel. What do you use the inverter for and is it on all the time?
Yup- that’s exactly where it was. Built in as part of the breaker panel assembly. Turns out it is rated with a flip of a switch for Lithium ion batteries.

Now that I have a better understanding of the converter vs the inverter…

The inverter is not often used as we would typically start the generator in the event of running 120v appliances such as the TV but we have used it on occasion for that same purpose during quite hours at a campground. Main reason we limit use is how quickly it drains the current batteries.

We leave the inverter off 95% of the time if I’m assigning a time to it.
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Old 12-31-2024, 10:04 PM   #12
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Good idea.
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Old 01-01-2025, 09:51 AM   #13
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You've had some good suggestions and may already have an idea of what you want to do. Here's my opinion, based on my experience:

Start by planning what you want your final system to look like. Then buy quality components gradually to complete that plan. Evaluate as you go and modify your plan as necessary.

If it were me, I'd start with a decent sized LIFEPO battery bank, big enough to get me through at least 24 hours of boondocking. Calculate your 24 hour AH need and get at least that much LIFEPO capacity. Then camp like that for a while and see how it goes. You can add solar and/or inverter if you need it later. In my case, I had planned to add solar but found that I don't really need it. We typically need to run the genny for some other reason (microwave or A/C) for an hour or so each day anyway. The batteries recharge during that time and our boondocking limit is governed by tank size, not battery. If we're in a no-hookup campsite, we run the genny during allowable hours, of course, but those are usually flexible enough that there's no problem. We could add more battery and a larger inverter plus solar to eliminate the need for the genny completely but haven't bothered. What we have works for us. It's not the cost but the complexity of more complicated systems to maintain. YMMV.
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