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Old 06-20-2022, 10:34 PM   #1
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1990 e350 rear drum problems

So i picked this camper up couple months ago... 1990 ford e350 chassis 7.5l gulfstream.... and slowly but surely going over every inch and now at the brakes... right rear was leaking and cylinder was shot...took me 4hrs to get that cylinder off...but got the new one in and the brake line on ...how worried should i be using the old springs???they seem to have ok tension and to be honest the brake pads arnt really to bad... am going to do the other side as soon as i get this side done .... and i know i should check the bearings but dont have the spindle nut tool so just gonna change my rear end fluid to 75w-140
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Old 06-20-2022, 11:35 PM   #2
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Drum brake hardware kits are inexpensive, replace the springs.
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Old 06-21-2022, 06:49 AM   #3
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the kits are inexpensive like posted above from 4 and up. motorcraft are 13 a kit.
In a pinch there isn't any reason to not use them unless visibly damaged or no tension. If you went that far though I'd replace them.
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Old 06-21-2022, 08:48 AM   #4
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Replace. Looking good isn't the whole picture. The temper of the springs is probably going away from age and heat. Use brake grease on the rear adjuster and pins/slides on the front.
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Old 06-21-2022, 09:21 AM   #5
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I think your springs look find.. if I where you .. I would keep doing what you are.. just check each brake line.. replace if you see rust.. now does your rv have rear anti lock brakes ? If so.. flush the ralb. Unit out.. does yours have load sensor on axle ? If so focus on that.. too.. what was color of old brake fluid ? What miles and did it ever tow anything ? Change trans oil.. make sure diff not limited slip.. if so use additive.. oh.. what is age on tires?
Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 06-22-2022, 04:39 AM   #6
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I think your springs look find.. if I where you .. I would keep doing what you are.. just check each brake line.. replace if you see rust.. now does your rv have rear anti lock brakes ? If so.. flush the ralb. Unit out.. does yours have load sensor on axle ? If so focus on that.. too.. what was color of old brake fluid ? What miles and did it ever tow anything ? Change trans oil.. make sure diff not limited slip.. if so use additive.. oh.. what is age on tires?
Good luck and keep us posted
So im pretty sure it doesnt have abs .... i couldnt find the module or load sensor on the axle you were talking about but ill take a second look ...about to tackle the other side rear today and now ive done one side should go quicker ... ive went over the engine taking airbox out and look around ...and looks like distributor wires and i would assume plugs were done at the same time along with a new waterpump and i know what happens when we assume but moneys always tight so one thing at a time ... the odometer says 50990 but id be more inclined to think it has 150990 but i could be wrong ...brake fluid wasnt to bad of color but the cyclinder was shot so makes me think all sides are like that... trans oil is also on the menu but lime i said money is always a problem or id have a nice Mercedes sprinter with all the fixings 🤣 "im only one man with two hands"
So just got my manual in the mail but gonna rd ake a look at rear end and make sure but i do beleive its a full floating axle dana 60 rear ... if i have that right ..gonna double check there is a tag on diff gotta see what it says ... also the fridge was toast so got it out the side window ...anyone have recommendations on a new fridge that wont break the bank? I know the 3 ways are more expensive but any advice would help ...thanks
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Old 06-22-2022, 04:43 AM   #7
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Yeah i hear ya but they all had decent tension trust me took me a hr to get them shoes back on lol ...and wasnt waiting three days from ebay or amazon and local parts store didnt have em ...if they are visibly streched ill change em but they seemed fine with decent tension....
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Old 06-22-2022, 08:11 PM   #8
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Why do all that work and go cheap on replacing the spring hardware. Pull the brakes, clean the backing plates, lube the spots where the shoes rub and install new hardware. Use an emery cloth to rough up the shoes and drums to get any glazing off.

There is an ABS sensor off to one side of the rear pumpkin. Looks like a small stud sticking up.
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Old 06-22-2022, 08:54 PM   #9
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The 2 abs. Systems I know of.. are 1.. load sensing on rear axle.. and 2.. rear anti lock brakes.. that use the vss... mounted on diff.. but that is only a sensor that gives ecm speed.. and also sends info to module under dash.. which controls.. rab .. the rab sits on driver's side frame rail .. about where driver's seat is.. you will know it when you see it.. it looks like big proportion valve.. that is what I have.. now I have 1993 ford e150.. yes different.. but I have about 10 books.. and I don't recall reading about anything else.. except 4wh abs.. but I thought they were newer yrs..
Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 06-24-2022, 09:03 PM   #10
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Yeah so got her all squared away in the back ... and its a 1990 ford econoline e350 7.5l and i dont think it has abs ...i dont see a module anywhere so i dont think it has it on here that i can see cause the brakes work fine and all i did was bleed then and adjust the brakes out and there awesome ...i do need to tear apart the cruise control if anyone has ever messed with these old systems and what usially goes bad would be great .... got my manual so gonna read that a little and brush up on things... rear diff is next as soon as i can afford 80 bucks in fluid lol
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Old 06-24-2022, 09:33 PM   #11
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On cruse.. it is mounted below brake booster.. and you have to pull battery to get at it.. could be cable or motor.. just don't run out a get a new one.. if you can find one.. 1st check cable at TBI.. if you take cruise off.. most of the time.. it needs to be taken apart and cleaned and lube up.. they freeze up.. because of non use.. or water damage.. they are mounted in away that water can run into them.. when the ditch under the windshield . Where the wiper motor sits.. gets full of trash..
So check that area .. there may or may not be.. a black hose.. on pass side.. far pass side under hood.. that is a drain.. and directs water down inside pass fenders..it is very hard t find.. and looks like a heater hose.. that goes no where.. you must remove it.. the trash blocks it up.. so you got to pull it to clean it.. or blow out. But trash will go inside fenders and rust them out.. clean ditch out.. if it's been sitting.. there should be a bunch.. inspect and lube wipers.. oh before that.. inspect all seams.. and caulk any missing.. pull carpet back on driver's side floor.. inspect for rust.. where water gets in from ditch.. it's a big problem on ford vans.. also clean the connector to cruise.. it get very corroded..
Sounds like a lot.. but it's not.. if you need parts.. hit salvage yards.. look for vans..
Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 06-25-2022, 06:27 AM   #12
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On cruse.. it is mounted below brake booster.. and you have to pull battery to get at it.. could be cable or motor.. just don't run out a get a new one.. if you can find one.. 1st check cable at TBI.. if you take cruise off.. most of the time.. it needs to be taken apart and cleaned and lube up.. they freeze up.. because of non use.. or water damage.. they are mounted in away that water can run into them.. when the ditch under the windshield . Where the wiper motor sits.. gets full of trash..
So check that area .. there may or may not be.. a black hose.. on pass side.. far pass side under hood.. that is a drain.. and directs water down inside pass fenders..it is very hard t find.. and looks like a heater hose.. that goes no where.. you must remove it.. the trash blocks it up.. so you got to pull it to clean it.. or blow out. But trash will go inside fenders and rust them out.. clean ditch out.. if it's been sitting.. there should be a bunch.. inspect and lube wipers.. oh before that.. inspect all seams.. and caulk any missing.. pull carpet back on driver's side floor.. inspect for rust.. where water gets in from ditch.. it's a big problem on ford vans.. also clean the connector to cruise.. it get very corroded..
Sounds like a lot.. but it's not.. if you need parts.. hit salvage yards.. look for vans..
Good luck and keep us posted
Is it easier to get to the tbi through the front or take off the doghouse? Going to check that drain and carpet on passenger side ... i mean its in really good shape ...no visible rust but i do want to check that drain and hose ...so just get rid of the hose all together if i can find it? ..i think i seen it when i pulled air box and filter but not sure ....seems like going through the doghouse would be easier getting to the TB and such ..havent taken it off yet but wanted to do plugs as well so saving that for next paycheck but i have a huge wooden console that i have to take off to even get to the doghouse to take it off ..and im in fernandina beach florida and its been 116 with heat index the past 3 days but ill get to it ...the rust is what im worried about and always the stuff you cant see but seems pretty solid so far..and prolly going to have to retrofit the ac to 134a cause riding with a generator running powering the house ac isnt recommended lol.thanks for the help
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Old 06-25-2022, 10:17 AM   #13
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One thing about those 90's rear brakes is the self adjusters frequently don't work. That's one reason the rear brakes hardly have any wear. Just give it a good manual adjusting now and then and the improvement is really nice. A popular mod back then was to install a master cylinder from an E 450 onto your E350. The bore is a little bit bigger and gives a nice improvement in braking. I did that and its a direct bolt on swap easy peasy. Just an idea for the future.
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Old 06-25-2022, 10:43 AM   #14
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Cleaning windshield ditch is free.. that is why I try to stay with cheapest stuff 1st.. or do cheapest while saving up.. and a lot of sports drink to replace electrolyte.. pull wipers.. and under screw the plastic cover.. that covers ditch.. that is where trash collects.. use your cell phone with camera and flash and record all over inside box.. and far left and right..
Remember your cellphone with camera and flash and record is your best friend and fits where your head cannot..
Next give it a good flush .. see if water is collecting in ditch.. look for any rubber grommet not sealing right.. and any bad seams.. I like RTV . To caulk over.. seams.. double check if there is pass and driver side drains.. make sure clear.. after re sealing seams.. and let caulk set.. lube up wiper linkage.. leave motor along ..

As far as TBI.. I find my old, short and fat me.. I have to do both.. I have to pull dog house and cement block to stand on when under hood. Blow eng off if you have air.. critters love to nest on eng.. carefully inspect plug wires.. because if you plan on changing plugs.. you are going to break plug wires..
DON'T let them sell you fancy plugs at 10.00 each.. I have tried every type and stock autolight. Plugs best.. with plain platinum tips.. but when it comes to wires. Get lifetime warranty ones..
Get new serpentine belt.. keep old one as spare..
Glad brakes turned out great..
Now if you got an rv that has been inside all her life.. than ditch maybe ok..
Good luck and keep us posted
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