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Old 05-03-2021, 03:54 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by amosnandy View Post
The motorhome has an ems built-in.
You have a picture of that. I Have not seen or heard of a built-in EMS. There is hardwired EMS that the owners install in place of portable one. There are load Shedding Devices in MH's built-in that have the letters EMS on them but it is not an EMS. All this stuff is very confusing. An EMS and a Surge Protector are two different devices also.
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Old 05-03-2021, 04:46 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavie View Post
You have a picture of that. I Have not seen or heard of a built-in EMS. There is hardwired EMS that the owners install in place of portable one. There are load Shedding Devices in MH's built-in that have the letters EMS on them but it is not an EMS. All this stuff is very confusing. An EMS and a Surge Protector are two different devices also.
An EMS is different then a Surge protector ?
Why do the label them " Electric Management System/Surge Guards ". Read the box.

There are Surge protectors that are built into Auto Transfer Switchs. Progressive markets them.

A load sheading device is a " Energy Management System " ( EMS ). It manages the RV energy, protecting from over loads, by sheading high amp items.
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Old 05-03-2021, 11:26 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavie View Post
You have a picture of that. I Have not seen or heard of a built-in EMS. There is hardwired EMS that the owners install in place of portable one. There are load Shedding Devices in MH's built-in that have the letters EMS on them but it is not an EMS. All this stuff is very confusing. An EMS and a Surge Protector are two different devices also.
Well it says in the owners manual that it is called an EMS and will shed or shut down loads when draw or voltage is outside the limits. I think 102 volts or above 50 amps. In Mexico we use a self regulating transformer, because the voltage from the line may go as high as 139 or as low as 102. It's an amazing device. We wire them with a 30 amp RV cord. They are good for 4000 watts. You can measure at the CG plug any where from 102 to 139 (biggest swing I have seen) and the voltage coming out the other end is always 117. Never seen one in the USA. Down there they will use 2, one for each line of the 240v, and then wire each one to one leg of a 240v breaker panel. Got no idea how they work, they are just a big transformer inside a box with a small IC panel and 4 led lights on it.
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Old 05-03-2021, 10:49 PM   #32
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Believe THIS is what AMOSNANDY refers to? (More common in Industry 3-phase world called "auto-transformers", but here, for RVs, called "autoformers"?) https://www.rvweb.net/best-rv-autoformers-reviewed/
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Old 05-05-2021, 04:06 AM   #33
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Believe THIS is what AMOSNANDY refers to? (More common in Industry 3-phase world called "auto-transformers", but here, for RVs, called "autoformers"?) https://www.rvweb.net/best-rv-autoformers-reviewed/
Yes, that is a Hughes Autoformer. Not an EMS. I gonna just leave you guys to your confusion.
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Old 05-05-2021, 10:16 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by cavie View Post
You have a picture of that. I Have not seen or heard of a built-in EMS. There is hardwired EMS that the owners install in place of portable one. There are load Shedding Devices in MH's built-in that have the letters EMS on them but it is not an EMS. All this stuff is very confusing. An EMS and a Surge Protector are two different devices also.
Actually cavie, my MH is equipped with one from the factory.(is that built-in?) https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-hw50c wired in just after the ATS. I can't remember how many times it denied shore power from entering the main panel in the MH through the years. I suspect that is to which he referred.
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Old 05-05-2021, 06:56 PM   #35
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Believe THIS is what AMOSNANDY refers to? (More common in Industry 3-phase world called "auto-transformers", but here, for RVs, called "autoformers"?) https://www.rvweb.net/best-rv-autoformers-reviewed/
This is what we use in Mexico to regulate the power. It will take anything from 85 volts to 147 volts and stabilize the the output to 117 volts.

It is single phase. For RV's we wire them on a 30 amp shore power cord. The ground gets connected straight through, the neutral straight through and the "hot" line to each side of the transformer.

They really do work. And we have tested and watched how the amps in the line change as the voltage changes

https://www.mercadolibre.com.mx/regu...c-e5c7f3a46de3
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Old 05-06-2021, 03:42 AM   #36
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Actually cavie, my MH is equipped with one from the factory.(is that built-in?) https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-hw50c wired in just after the ATS. I can't remember how many times it denied shore power from entering the main panel in the MH through the years. I suspect that is to which he referred.
That is a hard-wired unit. It the first I have heard of being factory installed. Most folks confuse an EMS with a Load Shedding Device that has the EMS lettering on it but is not an EMS. It is mounted on the interior of the unit and has a large display panel.
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Old 05-06-2021, 04:17 AM   #37
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That is a hard-wired unit. It the first I have heard of being factory installed. Most folks confuse an EMS with a Load Shedding Device that has the EMS lettering on it but is not an EMS. It is mounted on the interior of the unit and has a large display panel.
I think your confusing an EMS ( Energy Management System ) with a Surge protector.

There is only one manufacture that calls their surge protector an EMS.

Google Surge Protector and you get a bunch of hits on them, including Progressive.

Google EMS and you get Emergency Medical Service.
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Old 05-06-2021, 03:28 PM   #38
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may not be the power cord.

think the 50 amp pedestal connection is bad. reason i think this is when you put the 30 amp dogbone on the power cord both sides has 120 volt.all the dogbone does is tie both hot lines together and connect to 30 amp plug. if power cord is bad how does it pass 120 on both legs when dogbone is in place.think the 50 amp plug shows 120 both legs when no load on it. sounds like bad connection on 50 amp pedestal plug.
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Old 05-06-2021, 03:59 PM   #39
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I have had two instances with my 50Amp cord failed, exactly as you described. Both times I had lost a leg in my cord once on the female end and last year on the male end. The female end was an easy fix as it was a Marinco serviceable plug, took it apart, cut the wires back 6
and reinstalled plug. Done ! Last year I lost a leg on the molded male end . Unfortunately I ended up having to purchase a very expensive cord from the camp store because I could not find the 50Amp male end in my local stores. I have since found and replaced it now. In hindsight I guess I could have operated on 30 amp for a day but it was a very warm week. Anyway I now have a backup.
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Old 05-06-2021, 05:03 PM   #40
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An EMS is different then a Surge protector ?
Why do the label them " Electric Management System/Surge Guards ". Read the box.

There are Surge protectors that are built into Auto Transfer Switchs. Progressive markets them.

A load sheading device is a " Energy Management System " ( EMS ). It manages the RV energy, protecting from over loads, by sheading high amp items.
A surge suppresser has been called a surge protector for the 50 years that I have been in the business. I have installed 100's of them. The words "Surge Guard" is a company name not the name of a product. The RV world has a way of screwing up the language of the electric industry. Can you tell me the difference between an EMS that you plug into the ped to protect your electric system and the Load Shedding device that is built into the RV that has EMS printed on it? They are definitely 2 different pieces of equipment. One sheds specifically assigned (amperage) load as needed and reconnects it as needed. The other turn off the electricity under assigned parameters of (voltage) and turns it back on. But you already know all this. If I ask you for an EMS. What are you gonna hand me?

https://rvmentor.com/2019/11/24/ems-...o0_1M3_i4tQ-P0
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Old 05-06-2021, 10:57 PM   #41
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I have just read all the post in this issue.
1) there is NO SUCH THING as TO CLEAN in your wires, blades/plugs & receptacles (that you cann't see)
2) An ohm meter, digital these days does not run enough current through a wire+connections. thus use something that draws current (amperes) & read the voltage drop source to user.
3) a digital ome meter in "volts" can give you an incorrect reading for it could be reading "leakage" or mutual inductance from a Hot wire in the same bundle.
4) BE CARE FULL 120/240 VOLTS AC CAN KILL YOU..
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Old 05-07-2021, 12:31 AM   #42
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On 50a service, a loose neutral at a common point, such as pole transformer, or panel neutral, or cord/ plug/ receptacle, can cause havok, such as 84vac on one leg and 160vac on other leg and smoke appliances and wires
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