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Old 04-26-2021, 12:10 PM   #15
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"Then I put the 30 amp to 50 amp adapter in plugged into the 30 amp outlet on the pedestal and now I have 120 V everywhere."

With this statement I read it as the problem is in the CG pedestal. The adaptor is taking the single hot for the pedestal and feeding it to the two lines at the shore power cord end plug. If anything was wrong with power cord, transfer switch, EMS and such the problem in the coach with low or missing power would still be present. Also everything beyond the ATS is ok otherwise when on generator the problem would still be present.

I suspect the CG shore power outlet conductors for Hot #2 is the problem. Could be dirty, poor contact, mud hornet nest or who knows what when the RV cord end plug is in place. Have the CG check it out while you're standing behind them looking over their shoulder.
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Old 04-26-2021, 02:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.tommy View Post
What gauge wire is typically used in a 50amp power cord?
I was just looking at them. they list as 3/6 and 1/8

I would guess the 8 is the ground

Big difference between 30' and 50' and most had molded plugs on both ends. What a waste of a good female............plug that is.
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Old 04-29-2021, 03:12 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Sweetbriar View Post
"Then I put the 30 amp to 50 amp adapter in plugged into the 30 amp outlet on the pedestal and now I have 120 V everywhere."

With this statement I read it as the problem is in the CG pedestal. The adaptor is taking the single hot for the pedestal and feeding it to the two lines at the shore power cord end plug. If anything was wrong with power cord, transfer switch, EMS and such the problem in the coach with low or missing power would still be present. Also everything beyond the ATS is ok otherwise when on generator the problem would still be present.

I suspect the CG shore power outlet conductors for Hot #2 is the problem. Could be dirty, poor contact, mud hornet nest or who knows what when the RV cord end plug is in place. Have the CG check it out while you're standing behind them looking over their shoulder.
I am beginning to think you to be correct. Yesterday. I cut the old plug off the cord. Started striping wire back and on one hot leg I found the copper to be all black, like it had overheated or somehow got burnt. I kept cutting back, and finally about 8' back I found clean copper on the black hot link. So I installed the plug. Same thing, Same voltages. The odd part is that if I turned off all the breakers in the Coach, I would get 120-120-240. The minute I turn on the main 50 amp breaker, even with nothing else on, just the minor draw, 1-2 amps the voltage drops right back down on line 2 to 37-42 volts. So I went and bought a new cord. Installed that. Brand new cord. Same issues.

Camp Ground Manager called the electrician to come check the pedestal. That was 10:00 am, said he'd be out in 20 minutes. Finally had to leave about 2:30. Hope it's fixed when I get there tomorrow. I may have to unhook everything, air up and move check another pedestal to verify. (I have a seasonal site with my own deck etc) but there are some weekend sites I can drive down to to check. Just ahhhh.

So the final question on all this, if indeed it turns out to be in the pedestal, and one leg had low voltage, could that have cause the problems with my Basement heat/cool unit? Or should the power management system have handled that? I hate to think one failure caused another and then the issues I'm having with the invertor and PMS.

Called Winnebago, Earliest appointment is late July, but since I'm close I can take it and leave it. Might take a day, might be a week, maybe a month. Gotta have it right by October to take to Mexico.
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Old 04-29-2021, 03:32 PM   #18
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Yes, the ped problem would have caused the A/C problem. After you get it all fixed, Buy a good EMS. Had you had one you would not have burned this up.

https://rvmentor.com/2019/11/24/ems-...o0_1M3_i4tQ-P0

https://thecampingnerd.com/rv-surge-...30-amp-50-amp/

https://www.technorv.com/articles/do...rge-protector/
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Old 05-01-2021, 04:18 PM   #19
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Well the voltage issue is fixed. The electrician was out. Said he tested the breaker and put a 25 amp load on it. I call BS. The campground said must be the outlet. He has a bunch of old pedestals taken out of some sites. So I pulled one apart , got the outlet and breaker, opened mine up, plugged my 50 amp in and one leg was fine, one was 37 volts, at the screw on the breaker. Install new breaker, voltage is fine now.

Next step is to figure out what’s going on with the basement air. Still runs interior fan the minute I turn the breaker on.
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Old 05-01-2021, 04:21 PM   #20
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Yes, the ped problem would have caused the A/C problem. After you get it all fixed, Buy a good EMS. Had you had one you would not have burned this up.

https://rvmentor.com/2019/11/24/ems-...o0_1M3_i4tQ-P0

https://thecampingnerd.com/rv-surge-...30-amp-50-amp/

https://www.technorv.com/articles/do...rge-protector/
This is supposed to have an EMS in it. It’s always worked before.
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Old 05-01-2021, 04:41 PM   #21
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Did you rewire it while it was hot or did you find somewhere to turn it off??
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Old 05-02-2021, 04:15 AM   #22
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Did you rewire it while it was hot or did you find somewhere to turn it off??
No need to turn off the ped to change the breaker and the receptacle.
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Old 05-02-2021, 04:17 AM   #23
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This is supposed to have an EMS in it. It’s always worked before.
What is supposed to have an EMS in it?
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Old 05-02-2021, 05:00 AM   #24
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No need to turn off the ped to change the breaker and the receptacle.

The picture in my mind was not clear I guess. Of course removing the breaker from the pedestal makes changing the outlet safe. Mostly.

As an electrician you certainly know how easy it is to slip a screwdriver or tool and let smoke out of things.

Standing on wet grass working on a pedestal is not a thing I relish and have done so by placing a board under me as an added protection.

Sorry. My (safety light) comes on very easy as I had many technicians working for me and was hell for safety.

I told them if they got hurt I had to do their job because we were a small business and I had enough to do already. That actually was true to an extent.

Thanks for waking me up.

Maybe I will invent a (breakout box) that sandwiches between the plug and the pedestal. It would have recessed holes for meter probes.

Hmmmm. Bet there is one out there already.
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Old 05-02-2021, 07:45 AM   #25
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Update. I have ordered a new plug. May be the problem. I have checked the resistance in the cord ( mounded plug) and yes one leg shows high. Only thing I have not done is actually disconnected the cord from the transfer switch. Before I cut the cord I think I’ll take the wires out of the ATS. Check the resistance with no other factories involved.
Added information. The basement a/c heat pump started acting up (this was before I found the low voltage issue) so I shut it down. I opened the electric panel on the ac and one of the motor start capacitors was burnt bad. I ordered and installed yesterday. Now in on 30 amp with the pigtail. 120 volts on both legs so I only turn the breaker on for one compressor. The interior blower fan come on instantly. Thermostat off. Only way to turn the fan off is to trip the breaker. I did turn the thermostat up and compressor #1 came on. Shut it down to avoid any damage.

Other note. Before I found the low voltage on line 1 it appeared the water heater electric quit working. Now on 30 amp it heats fine.

First order of business is to go out and reorganize all the tools and parts scattered from the last 3 weeks.

There. Frustration vented.
I had something similar a while back on a 5ver we used to have. Really weird readings. It was a bad spot touching inside the jacket of the cord (not noticeable) it was jumping from L1 to L2. Giving readings from 200v on one leg and 40 on the other and any combination of 240 voltage in between. One way to check to see if it’s in your cord or plug is to hook up L1 on your power cord and see if you have power on L2 and or neutral in your panel on the coach.
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Old 05-02-2021, 08:31 AM   #26
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No need to turn off the ped to change the breaker and the receptacle.
You are correct. I rewired my entire house. It had ungrounded outlets everywhere except kitchen. On circuit at a time back to the fuse box. Only time power to the house needed to be cut was when I switched out the breaker panel. And love the way the power co guys Sid that. Didn’t even pull the fuse on the transformer. Did one wire at a time.
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Old 05-02-2021, 08:33 AM   #27
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What is supposed to have an EMS in it?
The motorhome has an ems built in.
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Old 05-02-2021, 08:41 AM   #28
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The picture in my mind was not clear I guess. Of course removing the breaker from the pedestal makes changing the outlet safe. Mostly.

As an electrician you certainly know how easy it is to slip a screwdriver or tool and let smoke out of things.

Standing on wet grass working on a pedestal is not a thing I relish and have done so by placing a board under me as an added protection.

Sorry. My (safety light) comes on very easy as I had many technicians working for me and was hell for safety.

I told them if they got hurt I had to do their job because we were a small business and I had enough to do already. That actually was true to an extent.

Thanks for waking me up.

Maybe I will invent a (breakout box) that sandwiches between the plug and the pedestal. It would have recessed holes for meter probes.

Hmmmm. Bet there is one out there already.
Was not worried about opening up the box. Its not like it’s laying on a table live. Open box the breaker off only thin live is the legs coming in and the blade the breaker plugs in. Wiring the pug and breaker is done out of the box. I do have a pair of elbow length rubber gloves I use if I feel it is dangerous.
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