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12-24-2020, 02:00 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 667
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Advice on DIY trade out of 2 Penguin II heat pumps
Ok - So I finally got ahold of 2 penguin ii heat pumps. They are on their way.
I bought the NEW thermostat so I don't think the penguin ii's should need any modifications. I will be throwing the old 5 button thermostat out. I assume the thermostat wiring is the same.
The originals were 13.5K's and I could only get 15K's.
Any advice from this common DIY switch?
Anything from getting the darn things up there to is the original wiring (12 gauge) sufficient? Any and all advice is appreciated.
I am planning to put the new units in my truck bed left in the box (already gets me up maybe 2-3 feet). Then use a ladder as a slide to pull them up onto the roof. (I will probably push them but I won't say that because it seems unsafe to be under 100+ pounds of heat pump!) A possible bonus would be if I could find an area where I could park my truck up a retaining wall from the rig and reduce the slope.
Once they are up there I plan on yanking the old ones off which I understand is just 4 bolts(????) and then wiring. I guess I reuse the old bolts and hope they don't blow off in the first mile of my first trip.
Thank for the advice - I have to admit I am a little nervous!
__________________
2007 Newmar Kountry Star 8.9 liter cummins
2019 F250 Toad
Blue OX
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12-24-2020, 02:21 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Capistrano Beach, California
Posts: 4,465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith55
Ok - So I finally got ahold of 2 penguin ii heat pumps. They are on their way.
I bought the NEW thermostat so I don't think the penguin ii's should need any modifications. I will be throwing the old 5 button thermostat out. I assume the thermostat wiring is the same.
The originals were 13.5K's and I could only get 15K's.
Any advice from this common DIY switch?
Anything from getting the darn things up there to is the original wiring (12 gauge) sufficient? Any and all advice is appreciated.
I am planning to put the new units in my truck bed left in the box (already gets me up maybe 2-3 feet). Then use a ladder as a slide to pull them up onto the roof. (I will probably push them but I won't say that because it seems unsafe to be under 100+ pounds of heat pump!) A possible bonus would be if I could find an area where I could park my truck up a retaining wall from the rig and reduce the slope.
Once they are up there I plan on yanking the old ones off which I understand is just 4 bolts(????) and then wiring. I guess I reuse the old bolts and hope they don't blow off in the first mile of my first trip.
Thank for the advice - I have to admit I am a little nervous!
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You've already mentioned the main difficulty, which is the weight of the units. The technical installation is not that difficult, but there are DIP switches to set on both units and some other things that should be covered in the instructions.
One big caution, however, is setting the new units on the new gasket/seal. It is very important that is done carefully and with no sliding of the units on the seal which might lead to misalignment or a crimp/fold that will leak. The new units must line up with the existing holes in the roof and through the new seals. Two people, one on top and the other under underneath, inside the coach, are recommended to set the units with little disturbance of the gasket.
__________________
Larry, Eileen, and Finley
2004 Alpine 36FDDS
Third motor home, first Alpine, no need for another.
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12-24-2020, 02:33 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Dallas, TX area
Posts: 634
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Keith,
I have done what you are undertaking. I rented a manual fork lift from a U-rent-it place. It is usually used for lifting air conditioning duct work in large buildings. It rolls around by you pushing it. I positioned mine beside the RV and lifted the a/c up to the height required. I think the maximum height of the one that I rented was 12'. I loaded the unloaded the a/c's by myself and maneuvered it with no assistance.
Once the new unit was on the roof, I disconnected the old unit from the wiring. I cut the wires on the old unit so that the color code of the wires would remain on the wiring in the coach. Then just color match the wires from the new unit to the stubs that are from the old unit. Discard the stub pieces. I would not unwire all the wires at the same time as you might forget what goes where. Make sense?
Align the mounting holes and insert the bolts, tighten to 45"-#. Make sure there is a diagonal foam strip on the brace that goes to the exhaust duct. A Newmar exclusive. Once you are satisfied, and the new units have been tested in all functions, seal the bolts with self leveling caulk.
Check that the DIP switches are properly set. The instructions should indicate the proper code.
Enjoy.
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12-24-2020, 06:58 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ljwt330
You've already mentioned the main difficulty, which is the weight of the units. The technical installation is not that difficult, but there are DIP switches to set on both units and some other things that should be covered in the instructions.
One big caution, however, is setting the new units on the new gasket/seal. It is very important that is done carefully and with no sliding of the units on the seal which might lead to misalignment or a crimp/fold that will leak. The new units must line up with the existing holes in the roof and through the new seals. Two people, one on top and the other under underneath, inside the coach, are recommended to set the units with little disturbance of the gasket.
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Good point about the gaskets. Mine is ducted so the person inside wouldn't be helpful but I will have to have someone watch and make sure it gets set straight down on the gaskets. No use in having the cool air blow out the side of the unit!
__________________
2007 Newmar Kountry Star 8.9 liter cummins
2019 F250 Toad
Blue OX
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12-24-2020, 07:00 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbiker45
Keith,
I have done what you are undertaking. I rented a manual fork lift from a U-rent-it place. It is usually used for lifting air conditioning duct work in large buildings. It rolls around by you pushing it. I positioned mine beside the RV and lifted the a/c up to the height required. I think the maximum height of the one that I rented was 12'. I loaded the unloaded the a/c's by myself and maneuvered it with no assistance.
Once the new unit was on the roof, I disconnected the old unit from the wiring. I cut the wires on the old unit so that the color code of the wires would remain on the wiring in the coach. Then just color match the wires from the new unit to the stubs that are from the old unit. Discard the stub pieces. I would not unwire all the wires at the same time as you might forget what goes where. Make sense?
Align the mounting holes and insert the bolts, tighten to 45"-#. Make sure there is a diagonal foam strip on the brace that goes to the exhaust duct. A Newmar exclusive. Once you are satisfied, and the new units have been tested in all functions, seal the bolts with self leveling caulk.
Check that the DIP switches are properly set. The instructions should indicate the proper code.
Enjoy.
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Great ideas. I already started to look for a forklift. Also, snipping the old wires so I can just match up the colors is brilliant!
Thanks!
__________________
2007 Newmar Kountry Star 8.9 liter cummins
2019 F250 Toad
Blue OX
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12-25-2020, 02:53 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,635
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I used a ladder and pulled it up with a rope whilst my son ensured the unit stayed on the ladder on the way up. Tried pushing it first...nope. Very easy pulling it up.
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12-25-2020, 03:50 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: FL
Posts: 11,813
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I have one of those cheap HF scaffolds. My helper and I placed the new on on it, climbed on and then lifted it straight onto the roof.
I am very glad I opened mine first. It had around 5 factory defects. Slapped together with wires pinched, falling out freeze sensor, stripped screws, and others.
__________________
Certified Senior Electronic Technician, Telecommunications Engineer, Telecommunications repair Service Center Owner, Original owner HR 2008
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12-25-2020, 04:01 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 420
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You will be surprised how light they are, 12 ga wire is fine, but you need to read the thermostats wiring. It’s going to be different. I think the new units will only be 3 wire so becareful but easy to do. The ladder plan works well, it will take two people. It’s pretty straight forward change out. Your really better off getting the 15,000 btu. Good luck, you shouldn’t have a problem.
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12-25-2020, 04:55 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gljurczyk
You will be surprised how light they are, 12 ga wire is fine, but you need to read the thermostats wiring. It’s going to be different. I think the new units will only be 3 wire so becareful but easy to do. The ladder plan works well, it will take two people. It’s pretty straight forward change out. Your really better off getting the 15,000 btu. Good luck, you shouldn’t have a problem.
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Thank you all. It sounds like I am concerned over nothing. Everyone I have heard from seems to feel like it is a very doable DIY project.
__________________
2007 Newmar Kountry Star 8.9 liter cummins
2019 F250 Toad
Blue OX
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12-25-2020, 09:48 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 5,326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith55
Thank you all. It sounds like I am concerned over nothing. Everyone I have heard from seems to feel like it is a very doable DIY project.

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Rooftop A/Cs more awkward, physically, than technically difficult. Read the instructions first, make sure your thermostat wire and interconnect wire is plug and play compatible (it should be, but check first). The DIP switch settings are in the instructions, too.
The lift you're looking for is a Genie Super Lift Contractor (SLC-18) or the equivalent by Sumner (there's another good one from Spain but I can't remember the brand). Park on flat, level concrete or asphalt. Place the lift beside the coach and assemble the unit (put fork assembly in the carriage, deploy outriggers). Put the box on the forks and use a ratchet strap to secure it. Crank it up to clear your roof and push the lift into the side (straight in, so the front leg wheels are under the coach). Have a buddy on the ground to keep the lift steady when you remove the new unit and return the old one to the forks. I helped a friend replace his A/C using one of these lifts and it was very "civilized" compared to using planks and A frame ladders (the original idea) and sliding loaded boxes onto the roof.
Good luck with your swap-out and let us know how it went.
__________________
2005 Four Winds Majestic 23A
“To the world you may be one person; but to one person you may be the world.” - Dr Suess
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12-25-2020, 10:11 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Campbellsville Ky
Posts: 546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USMCRET
I used a ladder and pulled it up with a rope whilst my son ensured the unit stayed on the ladder on the way up. Tried pushing it first...nope. Very easy pulling it up.
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What he said!!
__________________
2008 American Tradition 42C 2018 JUL Jeep Wrangler
2004 Newmar Dutch Star 4010 Spartan (Sold)
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12-25-2020, 11:07 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith55
Ok - So I finally got ahold of 2 penguin ii heat pumps. They are on their way.
I bought the NEW thermostat so I don't think the penguin ii's should need any modifications. I will be throwing the old 5 button thermostat out. I assume the thermostat wiring is the same.
The originals were 13.5K's and I could only get 15K's.
Any advice from this common DIY switch?
Anything from getting the darn things up there to is the original wiring (12 gauge) sufficient? Any and all advice is appreciated.
I am planning to put the new units in my truck bed left in the box (already gets me up maybe 2-3 feet). Then use a ladder as a slide to pull them up onto the roof. (I will probably push them but I won't say that because it seems unsafe to be under 100+ pounds of heat pump!) A possible bonus would be if I could find an area where I could park my truck up a retaining wall from the rig and reduce the slope.
Once they are up there I plan on yanking the old ones off which I understand is just 4 bolts(????) and then wiring. I guess I reuse the old bolts and hope they don't blow off in the first mile of my first trip.
Thank for the advice - I have to admit I am a little nervous!
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__________________
2002 National RV Tradewinds LTC 7390
Cummins 350 ISC
Freightliner XC, Generac QUIETPACT 75D
Fulltimer's - Class of 2014
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12-26-2020, 07:17 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: FL
Posts: 11,813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 426smartin
What he said!! 
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Ditto on sliding them up an extension ladder. Helped my grandson change one out. Glad we opened his first. It was not a Penguin and the frame was quite flimsy so had to be careful but the Penguins have a very sturdy bottom pan.
I can't stress enough the importance of a good visual inspection. Slamming the together these days it seems.
__________________
Certified Senior Electronic Technician, Telecommunications Engineer, Telecommunications repair Service Center Owner, Original owner HR 2008
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12-26-2020, 02:47 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MI
Posts: 346
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Up the ladder is easy as long as you have some help and a good rope. I have done it twice that way.
__________________
2007 Knight 40ft
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