Anyone ever use these Cosolder connectors?

[tap4154]

I think they're over thinking and complicating what is a very simple process. I'd much rather use regular crimp connectors with a *good* crimping tool, or solder and use regular heat shrink tubing. Much cheaper too.

[arcaguy]

Already having more soldering irons than I need and probably a lifetime supply of solder and shrink tubing I'll probably just stick with what I'm familiar with. That said, if everyone raved about them I would have probably gone with them for ease of use. Thanks for all of your replies.

[cadillac_al]

I have fixed so many shoddy butt connectors (including my own lol) that I almost never use them anymore. I would trust my Western Union splice and black tape over those. I can't solder worth crap and if I do get some solder to stick to my connection it is a big blob with sharp edges and I can't get the shrink tape over it. I have been using these cosolder connections recently and I'm having fairly good results. I can slip them over my Western Union splice and just use my heat gun on them. You do have to be careful not to melt the heat shrink so I can only use low heat. I do wish the solder would melt more. I do see some melting though. If I had a better heat gun I could probably perfect the process. I may actually experiment with a Bic lighter on the solder part and see if I can concentrate the heat in that area.

[mlpeloquin]

Used all the time in Mil and NASA cable and internal wiring of boxes. They really work well, but you need the proper heat gun. I own the proper heat gun, but you also need non commercial wire. The heat will melt automotive wire. The ones displayed are not to MIL spec, but will do the job.

[tap4154]

Originally Posted by cadillac_al

I have fixed so many shoddy butt connectors (including my own lol) that I almost never use them anymore. I would trust my Western Union splice and black tape over those. I can't solder worth crap and if I do get some solder to stick to my connection it is a big blob with sharp edges and I can't get the shrink tape over it. I have been using these cosolder connections recently and I'm having fairly good results. I can slip them over my Western Union splice and just use my heat gun on them. You do have to be careful not to melt the heat shrink so I can only use low heat. I do wish the solder would melt more. I do see some melting though. If I had a better heat gun I could probably perfect the process. I may actually experiment with a Bic lighter on the solder part and see if I can concentrate the heat in that area.

I'm 67 and have been soldering since I was a little kid, so it's very natural for me. What I worry about with these things is getting a cold solder joint. It's just so much easier for me to either tin the wires and do a good crimp butt joint, or better, just solder it, put heat shrink over the joint, and shrink it with a Bic. Sometimes, depending on the circumstance, it's a little difficult to hold the two wires and solder them together, but you could at least tin them, then use a butt connector and get a good crimp.

[shootist]

Solder has a higher resistance than a crimp so I use insulated ferrels , crimp the connection, solder it then slide shrink tubing over it. Without the ferrels soldering twisted together wires leaves a rough joint for the shrink tubing.

[58Ford]

I threw mine out out after trying a couple when I was rewiring the 58.
For automotive use confirmed by the shops that actually make replacement looms and build racing setups is like others here have stated, pre-tin the wires, then use butt connectors + use good crimping tools (not the cheap ones that come with some wiring kits - EVER) then solder through the holes in the butt connectors, then heat shrink. That is supposedly the gold standard. Some don’t do the solder, just crimp but over time the wires will snap or work out of the butt connector.

If you have no access to the butt connectors without the plastic sleeve, you can use the yellow, blue, red ones but cut the plastic off first. They are ok quality. This was pretty common in the Navy I believe.

Link here for good butt connectors: http://https://www.amazon.com/Non-Insulated-Butt-Connectors-22-18-gauge/dp/B000W20ZVA

Hope this helps.

[Argosy]

Originally Posted by Tombsy

I’ve used some of the smaller sizes, I found it tricky to heat them enough to melt the solder but not melt the plastic.

I wondered about solder that would melt at a lower temperature than plastic.

[swduns]

I have used those heat shrink sealed solder wire connectors
I don't use them for any higher amperage wires
I don't use them for solid wires only stranded wires
I used them for any data or controls wires
I used them on a stranded wire for a power wire that maybe serves just one LED light fixture (I wouldn't use them for a incandescent that might draw several amps)
Example - connecting the wires at an LED light fixture
Also the exact situation will dictate if there is enough slack in the wires and if the surrounding materials are conducive to using a heat gun around them
I have some heat cloths from the days of soldered copper pipe fittings and I'll place the heat cloths around to protect a wood surface, wall paper, vinyl or other surface from the heat
It can be tricky to wind the wires together tightly enough and hold them in place during heating to prevent them from pulling out of the solder area prematurely. You usually need two additional arms & hands

If it is a higher amperage wire or a solid wire, I would use crimp connectors, wire nuts, push in wire connectors or set screw type WAGO connectors. It just depends on the application.

[Fiesta48]

I carry wire nuts, shrink tubing, solder/gun and electrical tape. Worked for me for 60+ years.