Battery conections

[puplot]

The isue is not so much the charging of the auto battery, but why it is draining in the first place. When the radio is in aux mode it is getting low power( house/aux batteries are fully charged, auto battery is down) when i hit the momentary switch the auto battery is jumped to the house battery, the radio gets full power and my step works perfectly. In other words some accessories are still pulling power from the auto battery when, as far as i can tell, they shouldn't be. I am currently digging through schematics and wiring looking for a misswire a previous owner may have made. Just dont want to get to deep in and realize that i just have a setting wrong. I will try to check my solenoids and any diodes i might have in the system.

[4x4van]

On my coach, the steps, slides, and jacks are powered by the chassis battery. The radio will operate off of either depending on my dash switch.

Shore hookup (or generator) charges only my house batteries, alternator charges both house and chassis.

On your dash, top switch is to switch the radio source. Bottom switch is the house battery main shutoff switch.

Middle switch to the right (momentary) is your boost. Not sure about to the left; is it momentary as well? If not, then it would appear that it would link chassis and house batteries (like the momentary boost) long term, but not sure why you would want to, other than to charge both from shore/gen.

[puplot]

Originally Posted by 4x4van

On my coach, the steps, slides, and jacks are powered by the chassis battery. The radio will operate off of either depending on my dash switch.

Shore hookup (or generator) charges only my house batteries, alternator charges both house and chassis.

On your dash, top switch is to switch the radio source. Bottom switch is the house battery main shutoff switch.

Middle switch to the right (momentary) is your boost. Not sure about to the left; is it momentary as well? If not, then it would appear that it would link chassis and house batteries (like the momentary boost) long term, but not sure why you would want to, other than to charge both from shore/gen.

This is how i would expect the system to work...

[4x4van]

A previous owner could have rewired the radio to run ONLY on the chassis battery in order to not lose presets/clock when the house battery is turned off.

I had that issue with mine; the radio could be operated on either the house or the chassis battery. Problem was that IF it was on the house battery and I turned those off, all of my presets and clock setting were erased. I switched JUST the constant hot (the one that keeps those presets/clock) to ONLY my chassis battery, while leaving the main hot run through the switch. The drain for that is very small, so I haven't experienced the chassis battery going dead (yet?).

It's possible that the previous owner rewired so that BOTH the constant and the ignition hot for the stereo no longer go through your switch, and always run off the chassis battery. Although it seems like even that should not drain your chassis batter that fast.

[Soppy]

Sounds like your switch settings are correct. You could start by disconnecting the chassis battery and find out what doesn't work. You could also measure the draw with an amp meter to find out how big the load is. The problem with the older coaches is many have had wiring changes for whatever reason and it sometimes doesn't make any sense. Check for cargo lights, antenna amplifiers, possibly the fridge if it works on 12 volts.

[puplot]

Hey I found the issue. looks like one of the previous owners wired the stereo in wrong. thanks for all the help!