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Old 08-02-2021, 02:48 PM   #1
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Battery Disconnect Latching Relay Specs

I recently replaced my house batteries with LiFePO4 batteries and swapped out the power converter for a more powerful one to be able to charge them faster. I replaced all of the cabling to and from those items but the only thing I'm unsure of is the battery disconnect device.

It's an LR9806 by KIB Electronics. When searching for the spec sheet online, there are plenty of sites willing to sell it and a couple of forums with basic wiring diagrams, but no spec sheet. I called KIB this morning and they couldn't even tell me about it. The support guy kept telling me it was rated for 5 amps...which wouldn't even power the water pump, let alone the refrigerator, charger, lights, etc...

Does anyone know anything about this part? Or can you suggest an already known-to-work high-current battery disconnect latching relay?

The old converter was rated at 50 amps. My new converter is rated at 75 amps.
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Old 08-02-2021, 09:19 PM   #2
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An old engineering rule of thumb (and I've found it true with RVs most of the time) is relay contact current rating of 2X what your max would typically be. So if the old converter was a 50 amp, the relay would have had a 100 amp contact rating. You can use the old relay for years in your new setup even thou the converter is now a 75 amp unit and you'll likely be fine, but research and know where you can get a 150 or 200 amp rated relay. Pay attention to form factor and be sure you'd have space for a bigger relay.

Usually the operational current will be fairly low and not a worry, unless you boondock a lot and the batts get discharged a bunch. The other worry is the big arc that can happen if the batteries are old and the converter is humming along pumping out a bunch of current to charge them and you operate the House and Aux switches causing a big arc and carbonization of the contacts. So just be careful of that and you can use a 100 amp relay no problem probably for years.

Any current you draw through the relays for an inverter needs to be considered too but bigger inverters usually have their own.
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Old 08-14-2021, 02:04 PM   #3
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The battery switch contacts likely rated 200a+, the 5a was likely FUSE size for control coil, most are MOMentary switches, snaps ON/OFF from momentary control voltage, much like a wall switch. Reverse polarity to Turn OFF SILVER Contacts RATED for x2 cycles life , e.g. 30k vs 15k, AND silver $$= x2? Hope this helps?
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Old 08-14-2021, 02:42 PM   #4
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JimNX-

First off, welcome to iRV2!

The house battery disconnect relay/solenoid more than likely does not lie in the path between the charging system and the house batteries, so you should not have to change it out or be concerned about doing so.

You don't say what the year, make and model of your coach are. Some house battery disconnect relay models are specific to the make of a coach. You should add a "signature" to your profile. It contains whatever info you want; most people put info about their coach there, so they don't have to type it into each message. Instructions for adding a signature are here.
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Old 08-14-2021, 02:49 PM   #5
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The doc I found listed 110a continious duty.
Good luck.
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Old 08-14-2021, 03:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1 View Post
JimNX-

First off, welcome to iRV2!

The house battery disconnect relay/solenoid more than likely does not lie in the path between the charging system and the house batteries, so you should not have to change it out or be concerned about doing so.

You don't say what the year, make and model of your coach are. Some house battery disconnect relay models are specific to the make of a coach. You should add a "signature" to your profile. It contains whatever info you want; most people put info about their coach there, so they don't have to type it into each message. Instructions for adding a signature are here.
If it has a converter/charger, the disconnect ( latching relay ) would almost certainly cut the power off between the converter/charger and the battery. The converter/charger will power the house without a battery.

Units with inverter/chargers are not wired thru the house disconnect, but the OP stated that he has an upgraded converter/charger.
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Old 08-14-2021, 04:51 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
If it has a converter/charger, the disconnect ( latching relay ) would almost certainly cut the power off between the converter/charger and the battery..
This may be the case on some coaches- and perhaps most- but is not the case on all.

On the coach I own, the converter connection is on the same side of the house battery disconnect relay/solenoid as the house batteries. The relay/solenoid supplies 12V for some of the house loads, and as long as I don't change those, changes to the converter current and/or the battery amp-hour ratings don't change the current across the relay/solenoid.

As the advertisement used to say: "Only your hairdresser knows for sure," and the OP will have to play hairdresser here; his coach may be wired differently than either of us expect!
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