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Old 02-21-2014, 07:19 PM   #15
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Another vote for the water heater

And check your anode rod if it's got one.
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:13 PM   #16
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There may be only one Ptrap under your kitchen sinks and stuff will build up in the cross pipe. Mine did that and after I poured boiling water down and ran a brush a few times it finally cleared up. The cross pipe laid fairly flat ahead of the P trap.
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:04 PM   #17
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If your kitchen is in a slideout, you could have a broken flexible drain line. How do I know? Been there.
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Old 02-22-2014, 10:51 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Florida Panhandler View Post
Don't be surprised if the odor continues. The smell is likely the grey tank and not the black tank. Grey tank odor is much more "gross" and hard to resolve. I thought it was my vacuum breakers under the sinks,
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I believe you mean "air admittance valves", (aka: "mechanical vents"), NOT "vacuum breakers".

"Air admittance valves", aka: "mechanical vents", are used in drain/waste lines......(see:
https://www.google.com/search?q=vacu...k-%3B640%3B480

"Vacuum breakers" are used in fresh water lines...... (see: https://www.google.com/search?q=vacu...iw=911&bih=393

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Old 02-22-2014, 11:01 AM   #19
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We ran into something similar on an occasional, temporary basis. So, after you verify your vents are clear, auto vents are working and all that jazz, take note of a few other things.

What direction was the wind from and was it light or strong. What we came to figure out was that if the wind was light and from certain directions relative to the coach we could smell tank odors coming in through the windows. I theory was that the winds were just enough to push the odor over the coach and down the side then through a window. Also...we found the oder situation got "enhanced" with the fantastic fans running under those conditions.

May not have any thing to do with your situation but if you happen to have had a window open in the kitchen area, I thought I would just toss it out.
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Old 02-22-2014, 11:06 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkcas01 View Post

Right, called an autovent and looks like this:


This photo in a previous post depicts one of the cheaper designed Air Admittance Valves that Lowe's sells.

I would recommend the more expensive Studer Air Admittance Valve as shown here.

I have replaced both of mine a few times with the cheap ones and finally this last time I went for the "cadillac" of air admittance valves.

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Old 02-22-2014, 02:11 PM   #21
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I was told by an RV service tech that a quick way to test to see if the air admittance valve is the problem is to put tape on it. If the odor goes away with the valve temporarily taped, then the valve needs replacing. (Have not actually tried this, and don't leave the valve taped up for an extended time. )
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Old 02-22-2014, 05:17 PM   #22
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I have never had this situation mentioned by the OP with the coach stationary but I have had it on occasion when driving. For this reason I don't think the air valve near the sink is bad or it would happen more often. My plumbing vent on the roof sits directly behind the refrigerator vent and just a bit lower in height. I was thinking that with just the right wind over the fridge vent it could cause a vacuum in the area of the plumbing vent. Wondering if a venturi type vent sitting just a tough higher would solve the problem?
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Old 02-22-2014, 05:34 PM   #23
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stinkie while driving ended....

Quote:
Originally Posted by MandG-Fun View Post
I have never had this situation mentioned by the OP with the coach stationary but I have had it on occasion when driving. For this reason I don't think the air valve near the sink is bad or it would happen more often. My plumbing vent on the roof sits directly behind the refrigerator vent and just a bit lower in height. I was thinking that with just the right wind over the fridge vent it could cause a vacuum in the area of the plumbing vent. Wondering if a venturi type vent sitting just a tough higher would solve the problem?
I had the stink problem while going down the road, installed 2 cyclone vents, problem solved.
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