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10-03-2017, 07:10 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 15,749
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Soft ground or asphalt is a must of course. Usually not needed on concrete. Gravel usually I use unless very compacted. Some venues require no matter what their surface.
Blocks can be needed for leveling. I carry several homemade blocks 12"x12"x2.5" thick. Also a couple larger to use under the front tires if needed.
__________________
Vince and Susan
2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
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10-03-2017, 07:21 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,441
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The jack foot print is probably larger then the tires contact patch.
If the tires are not sinking, the jacks shouldn't.
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10-03-2017, 07:29 AM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 95
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Pads are important. I learned the hard way. Small rocks get on top of your leveling leg then when u raise the leg the rock can damage your seal. I now have a leaky seal. Rock was stuck into seal.
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10-03-2017, 07:44 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Las Vegas NV.
Posts: 811
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Snap Pads, simple and easy to install and your done.
__________________
Robert, Sami and our owner and boss Peanut.
2017 Winnebago Vista LX 35F. 5 Star Tune, Hellwig sway bars, Super Steer Trac Bar, 1600 Watt Solar, ARP, Spare tire carrier, Starlink, weather station, 2020 Jeep Wrangler, Ready Brute Elite.
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10-03-2017, 07:53 AM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudpuppy
I have 13” square pads I use on any soft ground. If it looks like I may lift the tires of the ground to get level I use leveling blocks under the tires and an equal number of blocks under the jacks to prevent over extension of the jacks.
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Exactly how I use my blocks
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10-03-2017, 11:21 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 9,941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigd9
I often wonder why the stabilizers don't come with larger pads. The jack footprint just seems so small that we always use "boards" under the legs. Why not manufacturer the stabilizers with a larger pad that swivels?
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Big D,
I'm pretty sure you already know this but, unless there's a form of a ball type attachment from the jack leg to the jack foot, (our '04 Itasca Horizon has such a connection), the larger the foot, the more potential for breakage of the foot attachment if it's solid, as some are. I agree it would be nice if the pads were larger, to help displace the load. Guess that's one reason why many of us carry home made or store bought pads.
Scott
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '20 Honda NC750X DCT
2018 Goldwing Tour DCT Airbag
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Heidi character, (mini Schnauzer)!
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10-03-2017, 12:50 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: The Bluegrass State
Posts: 8,889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat
The jack foot print is probably larger then the tires contact patch.
If the tires are not sinking, the jacks shouldn't.
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You are correct, but for us it never seems to work out that way. Maybe the rubber in the tires "bounces" you back to the surface and they don't sink?
Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP
Big D,
I'm pretty sure you already know this but, unless there's a form of a ball type attachment from the jack leg to the jack foot, (our '04 Itasca Horizon has such a connection), the larger the foot, the more potential for breakage of the foot attachment if it's solid, as some are. I agree it would be nice if the pads were larger, to help displace the load. Guess that's one reason why many of us carry home made or store bought pads.
Scott
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We normally use 1 - 1/2 inch thick 15 X 15 inch boards we carry, along with larger lumber to use under the tires if needed. One time we were parked at a ski area one very cold night. The lot was brand spanking new and crushed rock surface. I had 12 X 12 plywood under the stabilizer legs. During the night the coach suddenly lurched and the next morning I found both of the rear legs had broken through the frozen crushed rock base and sunk about 6 inches into the parking lot. I had a heck of a time chiseling out the stabilizer leg/pad the next day before I could retract the legs. I was unable to retrieve the 12 x 12's , and to this day they are still buried in that parking lot.
As my granddaughter said that day, "you guys sure have neat adventures Pop Pop". Of course she wasn't the one digging through frozen ground!
__________________
Good Luck, Be Safe and Above All, Don't Forget To Have Fun
Pete
Central Kentucky
2006 Fleetwood Discovery 35H, 2014 Honda CR-V, M&G Engineering Braking System
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10-03-2017, 04:01 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Medicine Hat AB
Posts: 456
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Thanks for the feedback, folks.
My project this weekend will be to make some pads.
__________________
Current:2008 Triple E Commander 3202FB V10, F53, CHF, Safe-T-Plus, 5Star tune, 2008 Edge Limited AWD Toad, Ready Brute Elite towbar, Demco baseplate
Past: 8 RV's over 32 years.
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10-03-2017, 04:45 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Pa
Posts: 648
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[QUOTE=FIRE UP;3832867]Gregg,
The use of blocks under jacks, has more than just one purpose. Depending on how large the blocks are, in regards to the size of the feet on the jacks, if the blocks are larger, then they provide a larger foot print and divide the total weight of each jack into more surface area which, "spreads the load" so to speak. And yes, there are certain camp grounds/RV parks that require them. Grand Canyon Railway RV Park in Williams AZ is one that comes to mind. They have a very nice park, with very nice spaces. They don't want a bunch of dimples all over them.
The Grand Canyon Railway RV park is a very nice, but be sure to bring your earplugs because the active rail line runs just behind it. Thought the diesel engine was coming through the bedroom at 3:00 am
__________________
2004 Coachman Santara 3480DS Workhorse w-22 Ultra Rv tune with Banks headers, Koni shocks
Retired OTR driver ATA 5 million mile safety award
USMC Vet 1968-1972
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10-03-2017, 05:12 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North East Texas
Posts: 4,946
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP
Gregg,
The use of blocks under jacks, has more than just one purpose. Depending on how large the blocks are, in regards to the size of the feet on the jacks, if the blocks are larger, then they provide a larger foot print and divide the total weight of each jack into more surface area which, "spreads the load" so to speak. And yes, there are certain camp grounds/RV parks that require them. Grand Canyon Railway RV Park in Williams AZ is one that comes to mind. They have a very nice park, with very nice spaces. They don't want a bunch of dimples all over them.
The second reason for the use of blocks is, the decreased travel the jacks have before reaching a point at which they start to lift the coach and, STABILIZATION! The longer the jack travels before it touches ground, the less stable that jack is. The less distance it travels, the more stable it is. So, by using them, you've sort of "Killed two birds" with one stone, as the old cliche reads. Other than the requirements of certain campgrounds/RV parks, it's totally preferential. I have no problem putting blocks down. To me, it's quite easy.
Scott
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ME TO. and especially if its a gravel, hard pack or asphalt pad
__________________
USN Retired, Life time member of the DAV.
Enjoying the 2008 Damon Tuscany 4056, #3998 no your eyes are fine, there are really 6 slides
2022 F150 King Ranch or 2012 Edge toads
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10-03-2017, 05:45 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP
Gregg,
The use of blocks under jacks, has more than just one purpose. Depending on how large the blocks are, in regards to the size of the feet on the jacks, if the blocks are larger, then they provide a larger foot print and divide the total weight of each jack into more surface area which, "spreads the load" so to speak. And yes, there are certain camp grounds/RV parks that require them. Grand Canyon Railway RV Park in Williams AZ is one that comes to mind. They have a very nice park, with very nice spaces. They don't want a bunch of dimples all over them.
The second reason for the use of blocks is, the decreased travel the jacks have before reaching a point at which they start to lift the coach and, STABILIZATION! The longer the jack travels before it touches ground, the less stable that jack is. The less distance it travels, the more stable it is. So, by using them, you've sort of "Killed two birds" with one stone, as the old cliche reads. Other than the requirements of certain campgrounds/RV parks, it's totally preferential. I have no problem putting blocks down. To me, it's quite easy.
Scott
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x2 exactly my approach.
__________________
2002 National RV Tradewinds LTC 7390
Cummins 350 ISC
Freightliner XC, Generac QUIETPACT 75D
Fulltimer's - Class of 2014
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10-03-2017, 06:08 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP
Gregg,
The use of blocks under jacks, has more than just one purpose. Depending on how large the blocks are, in regards to the size of the feet on the jacks, if the blocks are larger, then they provide a larger foot print and divide the total weight of each jack into more surface area which, "spreads the load" so to speak. And yes, there are certain camp grounds/RV parks that require them. Grand Canyon Railway RV Park in Williams AZ is one that comes to mind. They have a very nice park, with very nice spaces. They don't want a bunch of dimples all over them.
The second reason for the use of blocks is, the decreased travel the jacks have before reaching a point at which they start to lift the coach and, STABILIZATION! The longer the jack travels before it touches ground, the less stable that jack is. The less distance it travels, the more stable it is. So, by using them, you've sort of "Killed two birds" with one stone, as the old cliche reads. Other than the requirements of certain campgrounds/RV parks, it's totally preferential. I have no problem putting blocks down. To me, it's quite easy.
Scott
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X3 on stabilization from less extension. Only time we *may* not use them is if we are on a level pad that is either concrete or flat/level gravel when doing a quick overnight to sleep between destinations. If actually camping we almost always use the blocks for stabilization.
__________________
2019 Fleetwood Discovery LXE 40D
2023 Ford Expedition Limited Stealth Edition Towed
Full-Timers since 2018
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10-03-2017, 06:34 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: MI
Posts: 1,094
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Just about every time.
I built some out of wolmanized 3/4 inch plywood (top and bottom) and a 2 by 12 piece. 1 foot square and 2 feet long.
I use the longer ones on soft ground or to level a wheel some.
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10-03-2017, 10:32 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Zebulon, NC
Posts: 5,211
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X 4,5, or 6 for stabilization. Right now I carry 4x4x12s, 2x10x12s and 2x10x28s in case I have to raise the tires by a ramp rather than walking it up. I have 4x8s and 2x10x8s that all four put the jack plates within 3/4 inch if being level in my driveway. The pads are less than 1 inch above the pads and the coach rise to level is less than 2 inches.
After the Paris Mountain debacle, one thing I need to add are some short chains to cage the front springs to make it easier to block the front wheels for additional support
__________________
Kelly and Jerry Powell with Halo (Lethal White Aussie), Nash the Rat Terrorist, and now Reid, the "Brindle we have no idea puppy"
2020 Grand Design Solitude 390RK-R
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