Can't find replacement for cut dash A/C hose

[Kahoona]

Originally Posted by Waiter21

Kahoona - I think I told you about this one before??

Check the large hose that comes out the bottom of the power steering reservoir and goes to the pump. Where it passes through the radiator support panel, mine had a very sharp kink in it that was cutting off flow to the pump.

You cant see the kink because there is a net cover thing on the hose but if its making a sharp turn, its probably kinked.

Hydro-boost brake pedal occasionally pulsing – 2001 Coachmen Mirada 300QB

I checked my Southwind and its ok.

You should be able to get by without pumping it down.

Hook your can up to the service port and put a little bit in, just enough to pressurize the system. Then open the shrader valve for a few seconds to purge it all out. do this a couple times. Don't tell the EPA I said to do this.

I will check that other hose. So far the brakes work fine within reason. It seems like there is no way in he!! it is going to stop fast if you need it but when the adrenaline hits it can almost lock em up! One evening on I95 I did make a panic stop and found all of my belongings up front with me.

I did wonder if it could be purged that way. . Considering it has already vented everything it had to the atmo anyway... Still I might see about drawing it down.

[Kahoona]

Originally Posted by lllkrob

By the way, if this unit has been out of Freon for more than a few days you will need to replace the receiver dryer. Otherwise the dryer element may disintegrate and clog up the system.

Yes. You are right. I'll take a look and see if I can get it out and replace it. It wasn't "open to the air. I think it was a small leak until I pressurized it then it got bigger. Regardless it is probably time for a replacement to be sure.

[Droski]

A lot of farm equipment dealerships have AC hose and fittings to make one from scratch...pretty reasonable.

[UFO Pilot]

When I needed a new A/C hose, a local hydraulic shop made one.

[Kahoona]

Progress report:
I got the nut on the compressor end loose but it is stuck to the pipe so I can't spin it off. I have been soaking it with alternating PB Blaster and WD40 for two days. I have put a wrench on the nyt and a slip joint pliers on the elbow of the pipe and I haven't gotten it loose. I have not really cranked down on it because I was afraid of crushing the pipe and it is hard to access the pipe. Should I try a Bernz-O-Matic type hand torch?
The front nut near the valve is also stuck solid. No rust there but I cannot budge it. I have also soaked it for 2 days. I did heat it with a small hand torch. Should I use a bigger torch? Any chance that the pieces are fused and I need to cut off the tube and just use a socket?

[Waiter21]

Try to repair it in place with a barbed fitting.

[lllkrob]

Originally Posted by Kahoona

Progress report:
I got the nut on the compressor end loose but it is stuck to the pipe so I can't spin it off. I have been soaking it with alternating PB Blaster and WD40 for two days. I have put a wrench on the nyt and a slip joint pliers on the elbow of the pipe and I haven't gotten it loose. I have not really cranked down on it because I was afraid of crushing the pipe and it is hard to access the pipe. Should I try a Bernz-O-Matic type hand torch?
The front nut near the valve is also stuck solid. No rust there but I cannot budge it. I have also soaked it for 2 days. I did heat it with a small hand torch. Should I use a bigger torch? Any chance that the pieces are fused and I need to cut off the tube and just use a socket?

In all likelihood the hose fittings have corroded themselves in place. My 2013 coach had to have the compressor replaced and the hoses were corroded onto the compressor fittings. Had to have new ends fitted to the hoses. Like suggested earlier I would now use the splice kit and repair what you've got, otherwise it's going to get real expensive real quick if you try and force those fittings loose.

[hypoxia]

GM in particular was using a combination of aluminum pipe and steel nuts which would sieze due to dissimilar metals. Sometimes it was possible to work the nut & fittings back & forth to get them off, sometimes it all had to be replaced. I don't know if that is your problem but perhaps.

[Kahoona]

Thanks for the last three. The nut is definitely frozen to the pipe, even though the pope looks like steel too. I am guessing that a pro would cut the pipe and to make it easier to wrench the nuts odd with a socket. I have tried to avoid the splice in place because it's position under the radiator, above the frame, next to some fragile piping makes it a contortionist's delight and a claustrophobic nightmare. That and the dubious quality of the repair. On the other hand if Waiter21 thinks it's worth a try I'll try it. Got the parts. If I jack yo the front, brace it. turn the wheels to the right and put in a small footstool to sit on I can just get in there. If I fail then I will just get to go to plan B. Cut them off and have a new hose made. Thanks for the support. I'll let you know how it works.

[Waiter21]

Option C-

If you're able to cut the pipe back far enough to get a flare tool on it, You could flare to an AN6 fitting (or whatever) and then use standard ole hydraulic hoses.

Option D

Cut the hose, pull the cut ends out far enough to install barbed AN fittings on the cut ends.. then use regular AN fittings to put it back together.

I think the hydraulic world calls them JIC fittings ??? .. In the aviation world we call them AN fittings. same thing.

[Kahoona]

Originally Posted by Waiter21

Option C-

If you're able to cut the pipe back far enough to get a flare tool on it, You could flare to an AN6 fitting (or whatever) and then use standard ole hydraulic hoses.

Option D

Cut the hose, pull the cut ends out far enough to install barbed AN fittings on the cut ends.. then use regular AN fittings to put it back together.

I think the hydraulic world calls them JIC fittings ??? .. In the aviation world we call them AN fittings. same thing.

Yes. They are JIC fittings. I was just looking at them as an option if I can't get the barbed fitting into both ends and get the clamps on. I did get the hose cut. Oil cooler lines are in the way but I was able to cut it with a bread knife. . Just ordered 2 sizes of barbed fitting along with a cheap diaphragm type vacuum pump and a dryer. Hope brass is good. Pretty sure I can get in there to tighten the clamps. Plan to use 2 on each side to be sure. Thanks for the advice. Parts come Wednesday. I'll report back Thursday.
PS
New bread knife ordered also. Must keep wife happy.

[TQ60]

They do make clamps for ac hoses that are more heavy duty than standard water hose types.

[Kahoona]

Originally Posted by TQ60

They do make clamps for ac hoses that are more heavy duty than standard water hose types.

They do and that was my first choice. It would have to come out to do it though and I cannot get the end nuts loose so I am going to try this way. Luckily it is the low pressure side.

[Kahoona]

4/4" barbed fitting with 2 clamps on each side is in place. PIA to do but not so bad. Also replaced the dryer. Waiting for a fitting to connect vacuum pump which may arrive tomorrow. If not other leaks I can fill it. Fingers crosses and I'll let you know.