Check out Anode Rod

[Dfreiberger]

Originally Posted by RKins

Another thing that may be happening is the ole mixer on the shower wand in the wet bay. If you turned off the water at the wand instead of the faucet it will affect the quality of the hot water. Check that too.

I checked the outside shower and I always turn it off by the knobs.

[Dfreiberger]

Originally Posted by RKins

I assume that you mean you run out of hot water, not water in general. Is your MH all electric or do you have LP also? If both, you can fire up both for quicker recovery.



If I haven't used the coach for a while I get air out of the faucet at first. Once it charges back up I don't see air anymore.



You have plenty of anode left. Figure once a year it's a good time to flush the tank out (if you don't have one of these you should buy one to flush out the tank https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-RV-...&wl13=&veh=sem)


and replace anode - they're cheap.

Thanks Arkins -- I have one of them and flushed it thoroughly

[Forkyfork]

Someone mentioned using RO water to fill the tank. Don’t do it because it will damage the tank and metal fittings. Basically it’s acid water with no alkalinity to act as a buffer.

People think pure is good. When it comes to water it isn’t good for your body either.

[jimmy braden]

People think pure is good. When it comes to water it isn’t good for your body either.

I won't go into the aspects of rv internals (bc I can't say for sure) but I don't think the analogy with human consumption is transferable. Humans drink (and eat) all kinds of liquids/solids that quite far from ideal ph and the body normalizes it.

In addtion to the fact that a mathematical neutral for the scale is not what is ideal for humans.

The pH range is from 0 to 14, with 7.0 being neutral. Anything above 7.0 is alkaline, anything below 7.0 is considered acidic. A healthy blood pH without cancer has acid + alkaline balance almost equal. Actually a healthy body is slightly alkaline measuring approximately 7.4.

I,can live with a little less chlorine myself

https://goo.gl/images/3HSZrd

I'll also add,that I have a few healthcare employed family,members who are obsessed with anything but tap water. But, they also eat healthier... As the chart shows, don't expect the water to save you

[Forkyfork]

Originally Posted by jimmy braden

I won't go into the aspects of rv internals (bc I can't say for sure) but I don't think the analogy with human consumption is transferable. Humans drink (and eat) all kinds of liquids/solids that quite far from ideal ph and the body normalizes it.

In addtion to the fact that a mathematical neutral for the scale is not what is ideal for humans.

The pH range is from 0 to 14, with 7.0 being neutral. Anything above 7.0 is alkaline, anything below 7.0 is considered acidic. A healthy blood pH without cancer has acid + alkaline balance almost equal. Actually a healthy body is slightly alkaline measuring approximately 7.4.

I,can live with a little less chlorine myself

https://goo.gl/images/3HSZrd

I'll also add,that I have a few healthcare employed family,members who are obsessed with anything but tap water. But, they also eat healthier... As the chart shows, don't expect the water to save you

You can remove chlorine without removing the minerals. Your argument about PH and cancer is actually against RO water which is a low acidic PH with low alkalinity.

So, here is an article from The WHO (World Health Organization) about RO water. There are other studies out there for your own research. http://www.who.int/water_sanitation_...entschap12.pdf

I also worked in a biology research lab for years in the 90's. The biologists enlightened me on how RO water is harmful to your body.

It is not a natural water. Sure you eat all kinds of foods. Your body should have a half gallon of water a day. I drink at least 80oz of water daily. Your body needs the minerals from the water. Low magnesium and potassium can cause heart problems. We have very good well water which is 425 feet deep. When we were on city water we used bottled spring water delivered to the house. They had a full water contamination testing yearly. Every water company Ive contacted has provided the report. Funny thing is the big bottler in town had marginal spring water quality.

Instead of taking the time to post comments on this information, take the time to become educated about water.

[jimmy braden]

Ah, it wasn't comments i was posting about.
It was what I,understood was PUBLICLY Available., (lacking FORMAL TRAINING) but you can just be the local expert. Feel free bud

Offer your 'credentials' a little sooner and maybe we can skip that part eh?

[keymastr]

Back to the subject of water heater anodes, just like the anodes on a boat the anode becomes much less effective once it is half dissolved. After that it begins to corrode the inside of the water tank. The very first picture in this thread of the OPs anode is the limit of when to change them. After that you are beginning to damage the tank.

Fortunately the rods are dirt cheap. The water heater in your house has one too but nobody ever mentions changing it. They just assume it is normal to buy a new water heater every 7 to 14 years, depending on the hardness of your water. Look up on youtube how to change yours. They are similarly inexpensive and easy to change.

[NormD]

The original concern was also about how long the 10 gallons of hot water lasted. Is the heater running on propane? Is the flame looking as it should? If the burner is not working efficiently, the water will take a long time to heat, and your shower may be supplying a much higher ratio of "hot" water to cold water, making the 10 gallons last for only a short time.

[Forkyfork]

How long it lasts also depends on if you let the shower run or shut it off.
Ive noticed that the cold water isn't all that cold during the summer so it takes less hot water to offset the cold.

We have a 10 gal Attwood water heater and on electric only we can take 2 showers and do the dishes and not notice any drop in hot water.

But...we shut the water off while lathering etc. Our water is also incredibly hot and stays hot for hours after turning off the tank heater. Which we don't leave running all the time.

Anyway you look at it, its YMMV because every body is different.

[Mich F]

This anode is just over a year old. I was surprised at how good it looks. The little bit of scale showing is just attached to the anode and hasn't eaten into it at all. Totally different from the pic of the 4 1/2 year old one I posted earlier in this thread.

[THenne1713]

Often, I read, loose fittings on suction side of pump pull air without leaking

[THenne1713]

YES, THE OUTSIDE SHOWER is the frequent culprit, (turned off at shower head to allow antifreeze to fill hose/ head with valves left open, to winterize) allows cold water to MIX w/ hot water leaving WH tank.

[THenne1713]

Originally Posted by Dfreiberger

I checked the outside shower and I always turn it off by the knobs.

Are the WH valves in proper summer position, and head turned off when soaping?

[Old-Biscuit]

Suburban and Atwood....6.2 gal/hr recovery electric heat & 10 gal/hr recovery propane heat FROM initial fill (70*F water supply)
Both on same time.....16 gal/hr recovery time


IF using electric and recovery is lacking......element has scale/calcium build up which impedes heat transfer



Suburban recommends changing anode rod when 75% has been consumed.
No damage to tank if used longer. Damage only can occur when NO anode rod is used.
Tank is a STEEL glass-lined tank (just like residential WH Tanks).


Suburban OEM anode rod is 'Magnesium' because it will dissolve quickest so it provides good protection. But can react to microbes and cause sulfur smell
(Hex Head is FLAT)


Optional anode rod is an 'Aluminum' ----takes longer to dissolve and can have calcium build up making hard to remove.
(Hex Head has BUMP)