Class A - Adding Deadbolts - Your Experience?

[swduns]

2008 Tiffin Phaeton Class A DP 40’
Full timing, retiring in 6 months, preparing to travel full time
When traveling full time will spend a lot of time away from RV exploring
Have read about some people experiencing break-ins
Have a deadbolt now
Thought of adding a lower deadbolt to make break-in more difficult

Has anyone added a second deadbolt in a class A door?
If yes, please share your learnings.

I know some people will say it’s rare … don’t worry - be happy … but I’d rather avoid the hassle & damage of a break-in if it’s a reasonable upgrade.

[Ljwt330]

Originally Posted by swduns

2008 Tiffin Phaeton Class A DP 40’
Full timing, retiring in 6 months, preparing to travel full time
When traveling full time will spend a lot of time away from RV exploring
Have read about some people experiencing break-ins
Have a deadbolt now
Thought of adding a lower deadbolt to make break-in more difficult

Has anyone added a second deadbolt in a class A door?
If yes, please share your learnings.

I know some people will say it’s rare … don’t worry - be happy … but I’d rather avoid the hassle & damage of a break-in if it’s a reasonable upgrade.

I am one who had a break-in even though I have a dead bolt. The thief simply broke the dual pane window that is next to the door, reached in and turned the dead bolt thumb knob. As bad as that was, if he had used a crowbar and forced open the door, it would have been much worse. A second dead bolt, lower on the door, would certainly add a layer of discouragement. I use that word because a dedicated thief will simply break one of your larger windows and enter, given the opportunity. In my case, I could change to a double cylinder deadbolt, and remove the inside key when I leave. My window would still get broken, but the thief could not enter through the door. But...that would leave the large window as his next choice.



If you are away from your motorhome and it is in a populated camp ground, breaking of windows is greatly reduced. If you are boondocking, then any method of entry will be employed. The real purpose of locks is to make your unit more difficult to enter so the thief moves on to someone else. Sad but true.


The whole break-in situation creates a bit of a dilemma. Too much "protection" can lead to more damage as the thief tries to enter. Too little protection leads to easy break-ins. You could simply add a "dummy" deadbolt near the bottom of the door. That might be enough to discourage a would be opportunity thief.


We are all playing the odds. Make your coach as unappealing as possible to enter without effort and noise. Keep in mind that a dedicated thief will get in, regardless of what you do.

[swduns]

Very early in my career I worked in security systems and agree with every thing you said. I've seen security metal frame and metal doors simply pried open with a crow bar between the frame & door literally in a second.

On an RV, if the door is too much trouble breaking a window and going in thru the opening would work or if nothing else the wall of an RV is thin plastic/foam/and luan. A thief could cut a big hole in it with a battery Sawzall.

A fake lower dead bolt is a good thought. Why can't I use a little trickery on them.

I do think a trained guard dog would be a deterrent but I've tried training my Pomeranian but he would lick them into submission. My dog is the one thing in my rig I value beyond everything else.

A loud alarm would also be a deterrent, but would annoy the neighbors if it went off falsely. I already have 6 Blink cameras to discourage a thief. I'd say a combination of a simple security system with a loud horn (with noise pollution reset) and the Blink cameras are the most reasonable course.

[shootist]

Watch a few utube vids on bump keys. Deadbolts aren't much of a deterrent.

[Dutch Star Don]

Here's something to check for.....if you have a remote for locking the coach, it often uses a Trimark alarm, which is basically a car alarm. The unit is typically mounted under the dash. Because it's used for cars, it comes with some features that the RV manufacturers don't use. One of those is a flashing red LED light when you lock the doors. Typically, they just coil the 3' wire and LED light up near the unit. You can often find it by activating your remote, in the dark, while looking under the dash for the red light or the clicking of the unit.

In the past, I took the red LED, added another 4-5 feet of wire to it and ran the wire up the front passenger "A" pillar. I drilled a hole in the plastic "A" pillar cover and inserted the LED, so it was facing forward through the windshield. It worked great because it was visible through the windshield and also reflected in the passenger mirror, which was visible when someone walked up to the front door from the rear of the coach.

Once you press the remote, the LED will blink brightly until you unlock the door. The Trimark unit also had a wire for an alarm, if you wanted to go that far.

[DAN L]

I use an inexpensive bicycle taillight or 2 that blink red while I am away from my winne. My winne already has a dead bolt on the entrance door and I blocked the drivers door lock from the Inside.
That's where I place the lights.

In todays environment, I
guess I need a real alarm that will ring my cell phone.

[Ray,IN]

OEM locks will suffice, just carry the correct insurance to fit your needs. If a thief just breaks out one window the repair cost is at least equal to your insurance deductible.

[SmilingSam]

How about a motion activated camera and LOTS of advertising of it via small placards on both sides of rv - but of course nothing prevents if crook is drug addled and needing $.

I would have an exterior one near door, not super wide angle but adequate and one inside aimed at door, of course if possible have camera that can communicate via cellphone/internet, but a recording of the motion activated event would be great for cops and insurance - the placards may move the crook onto a safer rv to break into - GL !