Clearcoat peeling solutions?

[SavnTheWales]

I just did the front cap on my Bounder. I got 1 can of color and 1 can of clear. The clear was the 2 part where you press the bottom to trigger the mix.

For prep I removed ALL the clear using a razor blade scraper. Being VERY careful I was able to keep from gouging the fiberglass. My clear was getting pretty bad, so it was relatively easy to remove it all. I stopped at the body line as it was still in great shape. I then sanded the entire area with 600 grit. Then washed with dawn dish soap and waited overnite.

Next day I taped off area and used a tack clock to wipe down. I sprayed a color coat and waited 30 min, then did another color coat. The can was 7.5oz custom color match can and it provided just enough for the 2 coats on the entire upper part of the front end cap. I then applied a “wet” coat of the clear, waited 10 min and did a second coat. The can was empty after the second coat.

It looks great and really glad I did all the prep work and decided to do a base coat of color.

The cost was $38 for clear, $48 for color, and about $60 for respirator. So about $150 for the job. DO NOT spray this stuff without proper respirator. It is VERY toxic.

[sibe]

Originally Posted by SavnTheWales

I just did the front cap on my Bounder. I got 1 can of color and 1 can of clear. The clear was the 2 part where you press the bottom to trigger the mix.

For prep I removed ALL the clear using a razor blade scraper. Being VERY careful I was able to keep from gouging the fiberglass. My clear was getting pretty bad, so it was relatively easy to remove it all. I stopped at the body line as it was still in great shape. I then sanded the entire area with 600 grit. Then washed with dawn dish soap and waited overnite.

Next day I taped off area and used a tack clock to wipe down. I sprayed a color coat and waited 30 min, then did another color coat. The can was 7.5oz custom color match can and it provided just enough for the 2 coats on the entire upper part of the front end cap. I then applied a “wet” coat of the clear, waited 10 min and did a second coat. The can was empty after the second coat.

It looks great and really glad I did all the prep work and decided to do a base coat of color.

The cost was $38 for clear, $48 for color, and about $60 for respirator. So about $150 for the job. DO NOT spray this stuff without proper respirator. It is VERY toxic.

Nice, if you have the time and elbow grease,, this is best bang for the buck..
Not perfect way but standing 10ft away, AWESOME..
My son works at PPG auto supplier and makes up rattle cans in most colors, camera matched.. prices vary as they mix a minimum and then fill rattles cans , one to 4 from a pint of color, you get the rest of the pint left over.. LOL $80-$180 depends on color and amount.. I am sure jobbers may do this in other areas..
Rattle clear, a few good ones out there, Roberlo, UPol, SprayMax are top notch and have decent UV protection.. Dry nice..
MASK WELL it sticks all over...
USE atleast 2 coats of clear..

A customer asked me to fix a spot on his new Forrester RV.. I dont have shop for RV,, He said he has big garage but no way to spray, small tire compressor only.. I got this stuff. even a 2 part primer..
I had good break/tape lines and it came out nice,, I was impressed. I opted for a better base coat in can being metallic..
I think if I was going to do this more if asked,, I would go to UV, prime and Clear,,, UV is pricey but 10 min clear it can be polished and put in service..