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Old 08-07-2018, 07:47 PM   #1
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Dash AC on 2006 Gulfstream

I'm the new owner of a 2006 Gulfstream. It's on a Workhorse W24 chassis. I'm not satisfied with the output from the dash AC. It only reaches about 60 degrees at best in 70 degree weather. I've gauged out the AC system and I'm satisfied that it's working as intended. The compressor works, the high and low sides are within specs and the condenser fans work. I've clamped off the heater hoses with a vise grips to verify that the heater core is not contributing heat to the situation.
My latest theory is that my blend door in the dash does not seal out "fresh" air adequately. I say "fresh" air because from what I can tell, the vent gets its supply from vents inside the hot engine compartment. To me, this explains why the dash AC blows colder when I'm driving down the road as opposed to stop'n'go traffic or parked. My next experiment will be to tape over the vents in the engine compartment and force re-circulation (which is what Max-AC is supposed to do anyway).
My unit is parked about 20 miles away, so I can't just run out to the back yard to test it. Thoughts, opinions or experiences are welcome.
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Old 08-07-2018, 10:05 PM   #2
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Can you change from dash vents to the floor vents, to defrost? The controls should be vacuum powered. When all vacuum is lost, it switches all air to the defrost vents. A bad vacuum connection could cause the blend door and other vacuum controls to not work properly.
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Old 08-08-2018, 11:38 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
Can you change from dash vents to the floor vents, to defrost? The controls should be vacuum powered. When all vacuum is lost, it switches all air to the defrost vents. A bad vacuum connection could cause the blend door and other vacuum controls to not work properly.
BOB IS CORRECT, and there is a simple, cheap fix; 1) Locate/ Repair broken vacuum line, and/or replace defective check valve/ vacuum reservoir. On the Class-C Econoline chassis, EASIEST TO BYPASS/ REPLACE bad parts, and install new. (Factory procedure for replacement on E-series is 6-8-hours and $800-$1000, where bypass/replace turns into 30-60 minutes ($5-$50) Not sure about Class-A chassis, but suspect easy, too. (and YES, VACUUM loss DEFAULTS TO DEFROST w/ Heat 1/2 ON)
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Old 08-09-2018, 05:31 AM   #4
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After more forum searching, it looks like there's a long and storied history to this problem with Evans Tempcon AC systems. It seems there's many issues with the incorrect installation of the heater core flow valve. Mine appears to have been installed correctly, however there's some question as to whether it's installed on the supply or return side. (return side hose should go back to the water pump?) Anyway, the easiest most certain solution looks like the installation of a ball valve to just shut off the supply during warm weather driving. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/newm...ml#post1592242
I know I said I had clamped the hose off to test this, but now I have doubts about how effective my temporary clamping was.
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Old 08-10-2018, 09:49 AM   #5
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It is also true that MAX COLD position CLOSES the VENT and puts dampers in RECIRC position (rather than bringing in that 90-100-deg air)
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Old 08-10-2018, 05:11 PM   #6
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It is also true that MAX COLD position CLOSES the VENT and puts dampers in RECIRC position (rather than bringing in that 90-100-deg air)
Is your condenser in front of the engine-trans cooler or is it behind? I ask because it is a well documented problem with the Workhorse chassis that have the condenser behind the other components. Workhorse had a band aid for this in the form of an add on condenser plumbed in line between the stock condenser and the receiver/dryer. This was a Workhorse design flaw and was against all suggestions from Evans Air. Later year WH chassis moved the condenser up in front (coolest air) like it should have been in the first place
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:21 AM   #7
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(Noting now a month+ later?) Any luck yet? Did vacuum controls work so you can select Max, AC, defrost or floor? (A few thoughts) While you checked gages, w/ expansion valve system, it can fake you out; If you have the type w/ filter/ dryer/ reservoir, and the can is warm, it is low; there should be enough Freon reserve to keep the coil flooded w/ liquid; is suction line coming back to compressor sweating?
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