Community Forums

Whatnobeer · 03-18-2013, 10:07 AM

I just wanted to update this with a newer video from Mike Philips, head of training for Autogeek.net. He was previously the lead trainer at Meguiar's finishes. I've talked and emailed Mike a few times over the years and he's very knowledgeable when it comes to prepping and cleaning surfaces. I trust his knowledge and just wanted to share this with our good RV crowd in here.

How to Wash and Detail your RV with Mike Phillips - YouTube

esfritzi · 03-18-2013, 04:50 PM

What are you paying per linear foot of coach?

ctcamper · 03-18-2013, 05:33 PM

Meguiar's 105 compound , 205 polish ...also meguiars ultimate compound and ultimate polish...
3M super duty compound for those tough spots or heavy oxidation.

Lake country foam cutting and polishing pads

Porter cable DA polisher

LOTs of patience and elbow grease

Finish with Collinite's Insulator Wax No. 845 on a blue Lake pad..

Takes me about 12 hours to do the RV all told, compound and polish and wax.

If anyone knows a good way to eliminate the static electricity zaps from the RV polishing let me know. I have even tried grounding the RV to no avail. Have not tried grounding myself yet, plan on wearing a grounding strap next time I do it and see if that helps

All of the above wiped off with a bunch of Groit's Garage and Meguiar's microfiber towels

Soap I use Rain-x foaming car wash ... green liquid soap

CampDaven · 03-18-2013, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whatnobeer

As for CampDaven, I'm the one who usually cashes those checks.

I enjoy the challenge of getting something to look new.

Thanks, Whatnobeer.
One of my new hobbies is watching folks pimp their big rides!
I dont ask what tricks my worker will use. Sometimes I put some extra on the Weber to treat them a bit for their fine labor.
I still workout regularly but in ways my frayed bod will not rebel against now.
Happy trails!

bob7794 · 03-18-2013, 07:01 PM

I don't know why no one else has brought this up...First, get your rig clean, I mean no was, no bugs, nothing on the surface. Then apply either Zep high gloss floor finish or Red Max Pro #3 floor finish. This goes on in a this coat with and requires no buffing. It renews any oxidized fiberglass finish. Plan on putting on 5 coats. It drys quickly so you can work continuously if you wish. After the initial 5 coat application, a one coat touch up every 6 months or so, depending on exposure conditions, is all that is required. The slicker, sealed surface is much easier to maintain. Boat detailers have been using this method for years. I know what you might be thinking but just search on RV waxing with floor wax and read what others say about this method.

flaggship1 · 03-18-2013, 07:43 PM

Camp the RV Mutant Daven - this RV Mutant uses Blue Beacon when available and the 2x/year mobile guy with wax. I don't ask what they use but do hand them various spray bottles of 303. RV Mutants apply sunscreen while others apply wax. Among the things not found on RV Mutants Retirement List 1) Wash and Wax RV. 2) Call office to see how everyone is doing.

CampDaven · 03-18-2013, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flaggship1

Camp the RV Mutant Daven - this RV Mutant uses Blue Beacon when available and the 2x/year mobile guy with wax. I don't ask what they use but do hand them various spray bottles of 303. RV Mutants apply sunscreen while others apply wax. Among the things not found on RV Mutants Retirement List 1) Wash and Wax RV. 2) Call office to see how everyone is doing.

Have not tried Blue Beacon yet. Too many pros available. Me not go if me not need to.
You have reminded me that my jug of 303 is gettin low. THAT is in E911 territory!
How about:
3) Watch others pimp big ride, mine or theirs.

flaggship1 · 03-18-2013, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CampDaven

You have reminded me that my jug of 303 is gettin low. THAT is in E911 territory!
How about:
3) Watch others pimp big ride, mine or theirs.

303 would have kept the dinosaurs alive and looking like new till this day. You just read it on the Internet so it must be true.

And Watching Others Work while we play is definitely on the retirement list.

CampDaven · 03-18-2013, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flaggship1

303 would have kept the dinosaurs alive and looking like new till this day. You just read it on the Internet so it must be true.

And Watching Others Work while we play is definitely on the retirement list.

Wut?
Gotta go. Gonna take a 303 bath

txhood · 03-18-2013, 09:01 PM

I haven't heard anyone mention Rejex yet. From what I have read, this stuff is easy to use and leaves a hard polymer finish.

**CLIFFTALL** · 03-19-2013, 03:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by txhood

I haven't heard anyone mention Rejex yet. From what I have read, this stuff is easy to use and leaves a hard polymer finish.

I've posted about it a few times here at IRV2. It's incredible stuff.
http://www.rejex.com/
Great for windshields , especially if you encounter Live Bugs.

Whatnobeer · 03-19-2013, 04:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CampDaven

Have not tried Blue Beacon yet. Too many pros available. Me not go if me not need to.
You have reminded me that my jug of 303 is gettin low. THAT is in E911 territory!
How about:
3) Watch others pimp big ride, mine or theirs.

4) Drink beer as others sweat.

Craigls2 · 04-22-2013, 11:38 AM

Lots of experience and differing methods out there. I've used the Klassen High Gloss from autogeek on cars with good success. Does the finish on a motor home require different products than a car? Just bought our first new motorhome and want to take good care of it. Outdoor storage is hard on the finish and I want to protect it.

justaroamer · 04-22-2013, 05:03 PM

I do my own wash/wax.
I use a small elec. pressure washer behind a CR Spotless (an advertiser here) for washing, using automobile wash soap. Automobile washing Soap suspends contaminants (aka dirt) and lifts them from the surface. Not using soap can and will cause fine scratches on the surface...no way to avoid without a soap to suspend and lubricate the surface. I never use a brush of any kind, only microfiber pad on a pole or mitt on lower areas. Lots of soapy water and keep the pad clean.
Rinse is always with CR Spotless de-ionized water, never have to wipe dry, even in sun.
Waxing/polishing is done with either a Fein orbital or a Flex random orbital and only to a clean surface, which is used depends on what I am working on or working out. I use only body shop friendly professional products when buffing or polishing.
I have had great success using the line of Poor Boy products from AutoGeek.net. for polishing or working out paint problems.
Wax, that is an open ended opinion, limited to many to what Walmart or local autoparts has, which is generally the same. I have found a product that was designed for aircraft and used extensively on boats...also works great on motorhomes/rv's. I was introduced to this trying to alleviate bugs on the front of the motorhome and prevent staining of the 3M/Diamond shield "protective" products many motorhomes have. WoW this worked. Even started using it on my boats and now the motorhome. Could not be happier with the results. Did a test on parts of motorhome on winter trip to FL ... areas I used it on stayed significantly cleaner, now doing entire coach, including fiberglass roof (I don't recommend using household interior products with no UV rating for exterior purposes). Check out Rejex on the web and try for yourself, but remove old wax first and don't use wax over it because it won't stick. Their moto is "nothing sticks but the shine".
Sounds like an ad, but it is not. Just a product I found that works and gives me more free time to do other things (also saves the arms, back, shoulders, etc.).