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Old 03-30-2021, 04:59 PM   #1
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DIY window de- fogging?

anyone try the diy procedure where you drill holes in the edge, between the panes, use some sort of cleaning, then rinsing solution and add desiccant?
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Old 03-30-2021, 10:38 PM   #2
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I did this in residential windows - drilled the hole, sprayed in isopropyl alcohol with a water pic, then sealed the hole. It worked pretty well but probably not permanent. Conventional wisdom around here is to have it done, and as I recall there is a popular place in Florida and maybe one in Arizona.
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Old 03-30-2021, 10:48 PM   #3
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If you are going that far to get the glass out of the frame, just use a razor knife and separate the two panes entirely. Clean everything, then reassemble with a new separator that you can buy from Amazon. (aluminum side to the outside) with a sealer around the edge. I used 100% silicone as a sealer and injected argon into the glass before closing it up. Perhaps there is a better sealant, I don't like butyl products though. Obviously you want completely airtight though.
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Old 03-31-2021, 09:30 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by geordi View Post
If you are going that far to get the glass out of the frame, just use a razor knife and separate the two panes entirely. Clean everything, then reassemble with a new separator that you can buy from Amazon. (aluminum side to the outside) with a sealer around the edge. I used 100% silicone as a sealer and injected argon into the glass before closing it up. Perhaps there is a better sealant, I don't like butyl products though. Obviously you want completely airtight though.
Curious on why you used the argon gas and how you injected it? Not sure what your calling a separator or did you use some type of separator to space the glass and then seal that?
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Old 03-31-2021, 09:51 AM   #5
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Here's the separator strip - you have to use something like this that has a dessicant built in, or the glass will just fog up again from the trapped humidity.

That's also the reason I used argon from a welding supply. It's heavier than air so (should) just sit in the glass as you are working with it and not leak out. I injected it using a set of welding regulators and hoses that I already had, routing the end of the hose into the space between the glass and had a small coffee straw to get it below the exit point. I let the argon run in for a couple minutes to hopefully push out all of the air. It worked great for about 4 years, now I'm starting to have a bit of fog again. Not sure what didn't last - but it was the very first time I had tried and I was doing it in Florida where the humidity is stupid high all the time anyway.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UVUZBAS...v_ov_lig_dp_it
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Old 04-01-2021, 08:44 AM   #6
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Here's the separator strip - you have to use something like this that has a dessicant built in, or the glass will just fog up again from the trapped humidity.

That's also the reason I used argon from a welding supply. It's heavier than air so (should) just sit in the glass as you are working with it and not leak out. I injected it using a set of welding regulators and hoses that I already had, routing the end of the hose into the space between the glass and had a small coffee straw to get it below the exit point. I let the argon run in for a couple minutes to hopefully push out all of the air. It worked great for about 4 years, now I'm starting to have a bit of fog again. Not sure what didn't last - but it was the very first time I had tried and I was doing it in Florida where the humidity is stupid high all the time anyway.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UVUZBAS...v_ov_lig_dp_it
Very every interesting and you put some thought into it. As I stated I own a auto/custom shop and we do a fair amount of custom work. My big thing is we're leaving in the middle of April and I would hat to bust a glass and I have an appointment with a glass shop in Az when I arrive. I can seen for two glasses actually a door glass and two small bedroom glasses being 500.00 plus. I have done so much to this coach and this repair doesn't seem that complicated. Hardest part is me working with a sharp object lol!

As far as it happening again in 4 yrs, I think some of these coaches have a stress point and the flexing put strain on things like your glass. When I bought coach the owner who I trusted (garage kept) told me about a few minor issues I think that was to make me feel comfortable. One of the big things was the compartment door was hard to close and I figured no biggie its an adjustment. Well later on after doing some investigations it was the wall pulling off the frame. making the latch be 1/2 away for the latches latch. So maybe just maybe take a look at all your control points and make sure that isn't happening. Thank you a bunch for the follow up
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Old 04-02-2021, 07:04 AM   #7
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One of the problems with a fogged window is that if it has gone too long the glass will get etched and has to be cleaned.

This is what I did about 6 years ago https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/don...ng-246255.html

My driverside window got so bad I had to open it to look for traffic coming. I was able to clean it, still a little etched but barely visible. Did 3 windows for ~$100 at the time.
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Old 04-02-2021, 07:32 AM   #8
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The windows are easily repaired. Getting the right size separator is important as they differ by manufacturer. The glass (as pointed out) if it is etched it can not be repaired (I've tried). If only one pane is damaged you could have a glass shop get a cut piece of temper glass to replace it. Using inert gas is not required.
The cost of the glass (one or both sides) separator materials and time may be close enough to just purchasing a window assembly and doing the install yourself.

I did two of my worst windows, scrapping off the calcium build up with a razor blade. Then using specific glass polishing compounds and power tools I still could not do anything about the etching. Reassembled them but still cloudy. So I have complete new replacements and I have started the swapping them out.
So if it is just starting do it sooner than later if you want to save the glass.
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Old 04-02-2021, 07:36 AM   #9
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Drilling tempered glass can be tricky. Remember how temper glass fails. One mistake and no glass. Any window that opens you can drill though the separator on an edge. This I also have done to prolong having to repair or replace.
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Old 04-02-2021, 11:32 AM   #10
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Drilling tempered glass can be tricky. Remember how temper glass fails. One mistake and no glass. Any window that opens you can drill though the separator on an edge. This I also have done to prolong having to repair or replace.
Why would you need to drill it? They come right out of the frames, and the butyl is probably just peeling off.

That's why they failed in the first place, the butyl doesn't last.
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Old 04-02-2021, 11:55 AM   #11
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I watched a guy fix a couple of my windows at the RV resort in Feb. After he carefully cut the sealant between the windows he laid them on a couple of folding wire saw horses. Then he razor cleaned them and used a commercial window cleaner on each. He then applied a quick once over using a MAPP torch (yes!) to remove any chemicals. He applied the new bead of separator gasket and put together. Then he ran a bead around the perimeter of automotive windshield adhesive/sealant. He then cleaned the outsides and reinstalled. They look good.
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Old 04-07-2021, 07:41 PM   #12
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It’s easy enough. Here’s how I fixed my drivers side window.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/200...ow-334706.html
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Old 04-07-2021, 08:48 PM   #13
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This 2015 thread may be helpful too: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/don...ng-246255.html
and,
https://foggywindowrepairkits.com/fo...al-repair-kit/
There are plenty of utube videos for DIY fogged window repair. Some are just cheesy click-bait though.
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Old 04-07-2021, 08:56 PM   #14
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Curious on why you used the argon gas and how you injected it? Not sure what your calling a separator or did you use some type of separator to space the glass and then seal that?
Argon is heavier than oxygen or other gas's which comprise "air". When he introduced Argon into the space between the glass from the top it pushed out everything else including moisture/humidity.
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