Its been quite a while since this was posted, and since we have a new looking forum site now and also many new members, I felt it is time to renew this offer to our old and new irv2 friends.
I was tired of tearing my shirts and cutting my arms on the original door striker bolt upon entering or leaving the coach. Here is a picture of the original bolt and the new one I designed, and now make.
I borrowed this picture from Oemy's site (AKA Dale Olson)(
http://www.oemys-performance.com/)
DIY Engineering Projects
Door Striker
I make them -- and Oemy distributes them. Cost to you folks is ---FREE
.
Oemy just asks for a small contribution to cover shipping them out.
What he needs from you folks is input on the size of your present door stricker bolt. That's easy to do-- Mark around the big washer lightly with a pencil -- get a 5/8" socket on a 1/2" ratchet and remove your present striker bolt--- Then---
1- Measure the total length of the bolt (in inches please) to the nearest 1/32".
2- Measure the length of the thread (again to the nearest 1/32") --- That's all there is to it---.
Re-install the original stricker bolt -- send/give/call Oemy with the two sizes, asked for above, and you'll get a new one in the mail---
(please give him the year and model of your rig-- for a data base). We are finding that there are many different sizes--and some diesel pushers have extra long ones. You can use the original thick washer-- if you can get it off the original striker. Some manufactures have heated the large washer up and then slipped it over the bolt making it almost impossible to remove. Some have a small "O" ring holding it on. Neither of these methods is necessary, or required for the new bolt. Oemy will send you some washers or you can go to Lowes/Home Depot, etc and get two large 3/8" washers to use in place of the original washer.
I am now supplying Oemy with four different sizes of these bolts. The new bolt is installed with a 7/16" open end wrench. My threads and bolt diameters are the same standard size as the original striker bolt.
I am spray painting them now (they are made from steel) but if we have a member who is in the plating business maybe he/she would offer to plate future ones
----.
Yes, I have considered Stainless steel but new expensive tooling and machinery would be required and now they are FREE and work very well !!! We had someone a while ago call a RV manufacture and they wanted about $50 to send you a original replacement-- and that one will hurt you too!!
Last summer while in Maine at a campground (Cindy and I Workamp), I cooked some lobsters for an eldery couple (in their mid-80's). They had bought a new "Born Free" Class C (recently downgraded from a diesel pusher), with a side entrance door. When they didn't come down to pick up their lobsters, I jumped on the golf cart and carried the lobsters up to their site. When the lady reached down to me to get the lobsters I saw that ugly stricker bolt sticking way out-- I asked her if it had ever "bit" her-- she pulled up her sleeve and showed me a big red "Ouch-- scar" on her right arm. He said "We're both on Coumadin". I told them to eat their lobsters and I'll be there first thing in the morning --(I carry a supply of them with me). I installed one of my bolts and she came down the steps, looked it over good, and said, with a big smile on her face "It doesn't even have any sharp edges". I loved it-- It made all my work on these things worthwhile.
I've noticed on some newer rigs the manufactures have changed their door hardware-- for the better. Good for them.
Some folks will ask why is the original shoulder (the hex head) there? Other than to hurt people, I can only surmise--
1- To tighten it on to the door frame.
2- To prevent it from opening in the event of an impact/crash situtation. My feeling on this issue is if I am in a bad enough crash to cause the door frame to buckle -- I want the darn thing (the door) to open so that we can get out!! I don't cherish climbing out windows in an emergency.
With all that said, Let Oemy know if you need one,
Good luck,
) jim.
Linear Mode
