Community Forums

Jhutch4044 · 05-11-2012, 11:15 AM

Ok, all you electrical people out there here is the question.
I have power awning on my MH with rain and wind sensor. When I push the switch to deploy the awning it goes out about 1-2 feet then stops. Let it set for a few minutes and it might go out 6" the next time. and so on.
If I bypass the control box and send 12V direct to the motor it works ever time. In order to retract the awning I must reverse the wiring. How do I wire in a switch that when pushed one way will deploy the awning and pushed the other way will retract the awning? I think I need a three position switch (power- neutral - power) is that also correct?

doc · 05-11-2012, 12:01 PM

Unless this is some sort of home made wiring job, I am betting that the switch you have now should do that. Some electrical contact cleaner can do some pretty amazing things with electrical problems. Give it a good dose and see if it helps. MIght also check the connections at the motor wires.
I have a slide on the coach that hesitates when being deployed similar to what you describle. I run it in and out a couple of times and it works fine.

Mageksl · 05-11-2012, 01:11 PM

Doesn't sound like the motor. It's either one of the sensors is stuck (rain or wind) or the control box has gone bad. Can you check to find out if the sensors are normally open or closed and then check their current status. That might eliminate the sensors as the problem. You can do the same with the switch.

wa8yxm · 05-12-2012, 06:43 AM

If it is an A&E awning (I do not k now about Carefree but this MIGHT apply to them as well) the Shut off for the motor when you extend the awning is done not by a limit switch but rather by a current sensor in the control box.

IF the current starts to climb, or climbs over a pre-set amount, it is SUPPOSED to shut off, figuring the motor has stalled (Heard of a unit where that did not happen and it burned up the motor.... twice)

IF the battery voltage is low.. Current climbs.. If a connection is bad, Current climbs, If something is binding on the roller, Current climbs,, If the spring is too tightly wound, current climbs.

teddyu · 05-12-2012, 09:37 AM

The current draw could be due to binding. How often do you lube the pivot pins and take-up rollers on the awning? Just my two cents...

camper33 · 05-12-2012, 06:44 PM

wa8yxm hit the nail on the head. If the control senses low voltage it will shut off the power going to the motor. Check the voltage going into the control box with a meter, it should above 11.8 if it drops below this it will shut down. Try the awning with the coach plugged in and again check the voltage.

ChuckinKC · 05-16-2012, 09:07 PM

I agree with the other answers above -- that is the correct way to repair your awning. However you asked if there was a way to wire in a switch, and the answer is yes. You would need a double-pole double-throw switch with a center OFF position. There will be six connections on the back of this switch, the two in the center are the common and they would be attached to the motor, the two on one end would go to the Battery and Ground. Then run a short piece of wire as a jumper from the two other connections to the connections you just made with Battery and Ground, but cross the wires so that the current is reversed.

Click image for larger version

Name: switch.jpg
Views: 102
Size: 18.2 KB
ID: 21219

NOTE: that you will have removed ALL the safety system build into your control -- YOU are now the only saftey for the motor. If the awning binds up, or you forget to turn the switch to the center off position, or someone accidentally leans against the switch, you will be replacing a motor, or worse.

wa8yxm · 05-17-2012, 03:53 AM

Re the above warning.. A couple of years ago the motors cost $400 according to my favorite RV techinician.. How do I know this.. Well I got an HELP!! request from a neighbor in the campground.. His awning would not retract and a big wind coming.

I had to roll it up manually, (did a bunch of tests first, determined motor shot).. Called Rachel the RV-girl (That is her license plate) and she came out, did all the same tests I'd done and replaced the motor.. (Warranty job no cost to RVer) Rachel said it was 400 bucks for the new motor..

Then she did it again (Same rig) because it turns out the switch was sticking and the controller was faulty and not shutting off.