So I've been full timing for three years in a 2000 Damon Intruder 349 that I rehabbed myself. I did have a company do all the solar and lithium batteries but everything else I've been learning and doing. So the one thing I can not figure out is a silly electrical issue that seems to stem from the Intellitec Battery control board in the engine compartment...see pic. I have replaced the board itself, the solenoid and the relay but what keeps happening is often the electric goes out or just stops and I have to go out and push the Yellow button (which is technically the aux start switch and isolator relay) on the board in which I hear the previous old and now brand new relay kick and then the Magnum energy board stops flashing "dead battery charge" and then shows "absorb charging" and everything works again. This problem did not start happening until about 8 months ago in which I replaced everything I mentioned above, etc. Heck I even replaced the Automatic Transfer switch. If it matters I do have a Magnum Energy ME2012 inverter -2000W pure sine wave with 100A battery charger with a Magnum Energy ME-RC50 remote on/off and set up controls with digital readout. So the question is, I thought the solenoid or relay would be the issue since they stick at times so what actually should cause the relay to kick over on it's own versus me having to push the button itself? Appreciate the help.
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
Before you push the reset button, what does the battery voltage read?
Remedy: Check the DC voltage on the inverter’s DC terminals and
ensure it is the same as the battery bank, these two voltages should
be very close (<0.5 VDC difference). If not, check to ensure all connections are tight and the fuse/circuit breaker between the inverter
and battery bank is good.
This happens when you push the button
This fault clears when greater than
9 volts (12-volt models), is detected by the inverter when charging.
You may have a bad (corroded or loose) connection.
__________________
04 Horizon QD, 12 Ford Flex, Excalibar, Brakemaster, Winter Texan, RVin! since 1974
Norm, Donna & Tinker Kat(RIP) 01 Z3
Life is a Timed Event, you only get One Go Around!
The board will disconnect at too high a voltage as well if it is like the mid 2000 boards. I dumped the bird in favor of a blue sea relay. The board is still there for the salesman switch relays but not the combiner relay. A problem went away with my Aladdin system with the change over as well.
I'd suggest getting this, and getting rid of the Chassis isolation relay (the aux relay). Your setup with lithium coach and normal chassis battery is causing your BCC major headaches, as well as stressing your alternator.
__________________
2006 Damon Daybreak 3276 35'with 5 Star Tuner. 3 200 Amp Lithium batteries and 2000 watt PSW inverter/charger. 2013 Elantra on a Master Tow dolly.
Retired USAF
If you use the lithium BIM, you remove the silver solenoid, the top one in your picture, put the BIM in its place, as good as you can, then attach the metal straps which provide power, to the large posts on the BIM, and the two small wires to the appropriate spots on the BIM.
__________________
2006 Damon Daybreak 3276 35'with 5 Star Tuner. 3 200 Amp Lithium batteries and 2000 watt PSW inverter/charger. 2013 Elantra on a Master Tow dolly.
Retired USAF
I currently have a smart battery combiner, but am seriously thinking about getting the BIM, because my emer/aux start is disabled, because the old isolation solenoid was always energized, because of the high voltage from the lithium batteries. As far as which BIM to buy, you can check around, but that make and model is the one recommended by many to fix the lithium/wet cell battery mix.
__________________
2006 Damon Daybreak 3276 35'with 5 Star Tuner. 3 200 Amp Lithium batteries and 2000 watt PSW inverter/charger. 2013 Elantra on a Master Tow dolly.
Retired USAF
The yellow and black wires on the silver solenoid go to the ground and signal small studs on the BIM. The large stud marked chassis on the BIM will connect to the large strap on the left of the silver solenoid, and the large stud marked coach will connect to the strap on the right side of the silver solenoid. Please remember to disconnect the grounds on BOTH coach and chassis battery before attempting to disconnect anything at the solenoid. You want to make sure there is no power anywhere, otherwise you could be in for a nasty surprise.
You will also need to find a 12VDC source that is hot only when the key is on. I would think that would be available on the BCC somewhere, and that will go to the stud marked ign.
__________________
2006 Damon Daybreak 3276 35'with 5 Star Tuner. 3 200 Amp Lithium batteries and 2000 watt PSW inverter/charger. 2013 Elantra on a Master Tow dolly.
Retired USAF
Okay I apologize for being dense but I'm really confused. You won't mention to remove the isolation relay, which was on the left and I did. Then it was stated to remove the silver solenoid. So when I do that I am left with 3 copper post coming in of power. what am I doing with the very very far left power cord coming in? I still have not remove the silver solenoid in the pic, it's there for reference. Also, what do I do with the orange and white wires? Appreciate the help.