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Old 09-12-2020, 05:56 AM   #15
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A modern Diesel engine will start down to 20 degrees. If lower than that, after the wait to start goes off, turn the key off a back on and start it when the light goes out the second time. I use my block heater outlet to power a extra 100A battery charger.

What Ivylog said.... don't overthink it, these beast are tough and the wait to start light is right there on the dash to tell you

granted I'm in north Texas, but traveled all over in my coach and many 'deezle' pickups and haven't ever plugged a block heater in...



if you must think it thru, what's the difference why don't the gas engines need it ? just needs a lil heat to combust the engine without a spark... and the pre-heat with the glow plugs do it !
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Old 09-12-2020, 08:22 AM   #16
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I’ve started all my dsl powered vehicles at -20 without being plugged in. Its easier for them to start at cold temps when plugged in but isn't always necessary.
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Old 09-12-2020, 10:47 AM   #17
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Fortunately I seldom find myself in freezing weather. When I do, I just push the HydroHot engine heat switch to circulate hot (very hot) water into the engine while I eat breakfast. A half hour or so does the job. Then I drive away from such cold weather. Who needs that stuff?
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Old 09-12-2020, 12:27 PM   #18
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You're usually safe if you follow the instructions in the manual....FWIW, my engine does not have a wait to start light.
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Old 09-12-2020, 01:38 PM   #19
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It seems that the op doesn't understand that his bus has 2 separate systems. The block heater is a 120 volt electric heater that actually heats the engine block. The wait to start light is either 12 volt glow plugs or 12 volt intake manifold heater that warms the intake air or cylinders to aid in combustion.
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Old 09-12-2020, 05:51 PM   #20
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Also, the engine block heater may not be required for the engine to start.....however warming the oil and coolant WILL prevent unnecessary wear the engine would receive because the oil is too thick to circulate properly the critical minutes right after engine start.
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Old 09-13-2020, 07:59 AM   #21
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Also, the engine block heater may not be required for the engine to start.....however warming the oil and coolant WILL prevent unnecessary wear the engine would receive because the oil is too thick to circulate properly the critical minutes right after engine start.
Might want to read up on what 10-40 oil means. Yes, you need to give the engine a couple more minutes to warm up before putting the pedal to the metal. This could be idling out of the CG.
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Old 09-13-2020, 08:05 AM   #22
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OK, a combination of answers-- some "this will work" and others "best practices".


If at a CG with shore power, yes, I turn on the block heater if below 40 degrees F. An hour or so is enough. As temps drop below freezing, I turn it on earlier-- 2-3 hours.


Have to?? NO. Have dry camped at 10,500' in the mountains in Mexico and started it cold-- temperature 17 degrees F. Not as happy, and lots of black smoke. But it started.
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Old 09-13-2020, 11:40 AM   #23
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Might want to read up on what 10-40 oil means. Yes, you need to give the engine a couple more minutes to warm up before putting the pedal to the metal. This could be idling out of the CG.


10-40 helps, but I guarantee you warm oil circulates to critical engine parts much quicker. Engine starts create more engine wear than 100 miles of driving....anything you can do to minimize this startup wear leads to much longer engine life.
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Old 09-13-2020, 01:20 PM   #24
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10-40 helps, but I guarantee you warm oil circulates to critical engine parts much quicker.
Exactly. F1 and NASCAR engines are pre-warmed before starting for this reason.

Multi-visc oils don't somehow change from one viscosity to another. The blend merely decreases the range of thickness over the temp range. It's all still thicker when cold.
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Old 09-14-2020, 06:10 AM   #25
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OK instead of getting a million miles, I’ll only get 950,000.
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