Community Forums

Taarnac · 10-10-2011, 05:37 PM

I am looking for advice on repairing my slideout. The metal casing under the slideout floor has de-laminated. On a previous trip, it caught on the rug because it was hanging down, which caused it to bend under. After several false diagnoses by the dealer which I will not go into, I found the real problem.
Now, I'm planning on sliding out the unit past it's normal travel (while supported from below), and cutting off the bent edge of the metal and will secure it with a very thin moulding. Before I begin this huge task, does anyone have advice for me?

Tha_Rooster · 10-10-2011, 05:46 PM

If you remove side molding to extend slide further want it fall out.

Taarnac · 10-10-2011, 06:20 PM

Thanks for your reply. The dealer sez it will go out a little bit on it's own support, but I will be building a platform of criss-crossed 4x4's with a little sandwich of 1/2" pipes to support the weight and let it roll. My only concern with falling is preventing it from continuing if it disengages from the drive gear. Hopefully, I only need about 6-8 inches to get to where I can repair the problem

Taarnac · 11-07-2011, 06:05 PM

FYI - Update on the slide issue. I got some good advice from a local repairman and supported the inside of the slide on blocks to the extender posts. Then when I got it out far enough, found that the actual wood, not just the metal had pulled out of the extruded metal bracket and drooped down. Luckily, I was able to countersink screws (with Locktite) into the aluminum structure and avoided having to tack on some kind of flat molding to hold the edge of the bent sheathing. I just ground it off with an angle grinder and all is well now. It was quite a project, but I figure I saved about $2000 by doing it myself, plus the hassle of packing everything for a trip to the shop.

rlgosse · 11-29-2011, 01:01 PM

Hi

I'm new here so please bear with me. I have a 2005 Expedition that developed a similar problem last trip out. The side caught the carpert while retacting and pulled it out partially from the metal retainer underneath the slide. The carpert is slightly damaged so I suspect I'll have to pull the slide to fix the problem. I contacted Fleetwood but so far they haven't replied. There aren't many reputable repair shops around here and I've found the ones that are experiment with stuff with less then sparten results. Right now it is parked in my industrial, heated shop so I could work on it my self with a little help. From your previous post you seem tohave been there. Do you have any helpful advise in getting the slide out a little to see what the problem is.

Thanks for you help

Bob

Taarnac · 11-30-2011, 09:00 AM

Hi, Bob,

On mine, there was both. I had to remove all of the molding, the aluminum beam that supports the top and the flanges on the sides so that it would fit through the hole. They used some type of glue/caulk from hell that I had to scrape off with a sharpened putty knife and then finish with goof-off. Anyway, there is a small attachment to the underside of the extender rails that clips into a slotted rail, kind of like the rails used for adjustable shelving. Then a bolt with a nut holds it secure after it's clipped in. A second bolt is used as a limit adjustment - I recommend not changing that. In my case, I used the motor to slide it most of the way, but since I didn't know how far I could go before running out of gear teeth, I tilted the rig a little, and cranked it out manually with a crescent wrench on the square driveshaft bar. There is a disengage switch on the motor that you need to flip first. I could only extend to just where the slideout box was flush with the outside of the hole, but for me, it was just enough.

I hope that info is helpful. I'm glad I get a chance to contribute to the group!
Let me know if there is more info that you need.

rlgosse · 11-30-2011, 01:36 PM

I've looked it all over pretty well and the biggest problem I see is the " Glue from Hell" on the top aluminum rail. The slide roof and the whole motor home is covered with a fabric, I think they call it TPO. It's not rubber. They let the roofing come inside about 8" and caulk it to the top rail then bend the excess up over the rail on the inside. I don't know if it will come loose with out tearing the fabric. The side rails will be no problem since it is caulked aliminum to aluminum. Was yours similar.

I certainly appreciate your response and everything you say matches what I have going. I really don't see any alternative but to give it a shot. Fleetwood replyed but only to say, "take it to a dealer". Guess they are reluctant to dish out info to lay people. It may be the quality of shops I've been dealing with since I've owned the rig, 6 yrs. but I get a bigger heart burn after seeing some of the butcher jobs.

Anyway, your help is appreciated.

Bob

Taarnac · 12-03-2011, 11:50 AM

Bob,
I was lucky with my roof because when I removed the screws that hold the top rail in, gravity helped separate the roof material from the aluminum beam, and they had only used a double-sided tape on it, on which the glue had pretty much dried out.

Careful with the thin wood molding strip(s) that run along the underside- I snapped mine somewhere in the middle because I neglected to remove it first. I didn't realize at the time that the top 6" molding was made up of 2 or 3 separate parts and tried to remove it as one.

Good luck and let me know how you make out.
Jere

Taarnac · 12-03-2011, 11:53 AM

Oh, BTW - I have the cutaway view document that Fleetwood sent me of the slideout and flooring construction, including the rails. If that would be beneficial, let me know and I can forward it to you.

Jere