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Old 06-15-2018, 04:57 PM   #1
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Fridge

Need some quick responses as we leave tomorrow for a week. 2004 domestic fridge currently plugged into 120v have had fridge running since last night on auto mode, freezer is ice cold fridge not very cold. The check light is not on but I can keep hearing and took the cover off to see that the burner keeps igniting and running for 3-5 seconds and goes out, does that every 20-30 seconds. Why is fridge not getting cold and why does burner keep igniting when plugged into elec.?
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Old 06-15-2018, 05:29 PM   #2
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Look up the refrigerator by make (Dometic) and model (?) to find a service manual and troubleshooting guide for that model. It's obviously not working properly with the 120v connected and the burner still trying to kick on.
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Old 06-15-2018, 05:50 PM   #3
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It is a Rm2652
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Old 06-15-2018, 05:57 PM   #4
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I would blow out the Burner Tube - Should be a nice Blueish type Flame.
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Old 06-15-2018, 09:59 PM   #5
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Is the 'Auto' light ON?


What happens if you unplug fridge AC power cord from outlet?
Does it swap to LP, light off and stay lit?


Freezer COLD....food compartment NOT

(Are the fins getting cool at all? )

Classic symptom of an obstruction in cooling unit between LO Temp Evap (freezer) and the HI TEMP Evap (food section)


In Auto and working on 120V AC but spark electrode firing (park..click click click) and main flame lighting off........
That is a Fault within circuit board. Not sensing AC and Not sensing main flame is lit.


AC Ripple will cause erratic operations....
Use voltmeter set to AC and then measure the DC at the terminal block.
More then 6V AC on the DC is not acceptable


Three issues
1) Obstruction in cooling unit......
2) Circuit board bad
3) Excessive AC Ripple on DC





#1 is a dead cooling unit...replacement ----cooling unit OR fridge

#2 Dinosaur Electronics replacement.
#3 Change DC to another cleaner source
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Old 06-16-2018, 07:02 PM   #6
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Well the GFCI was tripped in the bathroom, all works fine. Thanks
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Old 06-16-2018, 07:07 PM   #7
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Glenn, I'm glad you got the fridge working, BUT it seems like it will only work correctly on 120 volt, not on LP (which is what is was trying to do).
So at some point you may want to get that worked out, in case you ever do want to use LP for cooling.
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