Community Forums

Steverino · 11-13-2015, 08:39 AM

I've always tried to keep the gas tank full during winter storage (gas treated with StaBil). Theory being that less airspace = less opportunity for rust to develop in the tank.

I need to replace the in-tank fuel pump, but am not sure I'll get to it before things get cold. The tank is relatively close to empty now, and I'd just as soon keep it that way until I can change the pump.

Do you think that storing it over winter with a low gas level is a major no-no?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Skip426 · 11-13-2015, 08:48 AM

I was under the impression that most newer; last 20 years; , gas, motor homes had switched over to plastic tanks.
Is your fuel tank plastic or metal?

t55watson · 11-13-2015, 08:48 AM

Not a major

After the repair of the fuel pump fill the tank adding some fuel conditioner, dry gas.

Steverino · 11-13-2015, 10:13 AM

Skip: a valid question. Our rig is 15 yrs old on a Ford E450 chassis. I am 99.9% sure it's metal, but will confirm tonight.

t55watson: thanks for the reassurance. I really don't want to have to figure out what to do with 55 gallons of gas when it's time to drop the tank

Ray,IN · 11-13-2015, 08:01 PM

The theory is, storing with a less than full tank allows it to breathe in air when the remaining fuel cools at night. Then the moisture in that "inhaled" air condenses and settles to the tank bottom.
This is not as much a problem with a gas rig as it is with a diesel engine, because diesel fuel attracts water, and water does not play well at all with injectors. I think Watson offered good advice.

Fiesta48 · 11-14-2015, 09:19 AM

Federal law says gas tanks should be metal, unless they are the bladder type.
Always keep all vehicles with metal tanks full to stop rust and condensation.

ga traveler · 11-14-2015, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skip426

I was under the impression that most newer; last 20 years; , gas, motor homes had switched over to plastic tanks.
Is your fuel tank plastic or metal?

As a service manager for 15 years, I never saw a class A gas with a plastic tank.

Route 66 · 11-14-2015, 09:56 AM

Full with Sta-Bil added.

Up North · 11-15-2015, 03:52 AM

I probably don't need to tell you this but take caution removing the bolts that hold the fuel pump to the tank. I had a mechanic replace my fuel pump on my Ford E350 box truck I use for work.
He stripped or snapped off 5 of the 6 bolts because they were rusted. He used all sorts of spray lube to try to free them but it didn't work.
My bill went from a $700 fuel pump job to a $3300 new fuel pump AND a new fuel tank job.
Of course welding or using a heat torch on a fuel tank is ill advised

With that being said I always fill my tank before storage and add Stabil. Then run the generator for a couple hours to let that Stabil work it's way through.
Besides gas here right now is about $2.12 a gallon and I get a 10 cent discount per gallon because we are business card holders.

Who knows what gas will be in spring!

Steverino · 11-15-2015, 05:57 AM

Thanks for the wisdom, everyone! Hopefully I can get to this job before it gets too cold outside and that way I won't have to worry about the full tank problem.

Up_North, thanks for the warning about the bolts. Gives me the heebie-jeebies. Our rig wasn't driven on salty roads, but it did come out of coastal Florida, and it has its share of corroded hardware underneath.

Anybody have tips for prepping rusted bolts for removal when it's a fuel tank situation?

edgray · 11-15-2015, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steverino

Thanks for the wisdom, everyone! Hopefully I can get to this job before it gets too cold outside and that way I won't have to worry about the full tank problem.

Up_North, thanks for the warning about the bolts. Gives me the heebie-jeebies. Our rig wasn't driven on salty roads, but it did come out of coastal Florida, and it has its share of corroded hardware underneath.

Anybody have tips for prepping rusted bolts for removal when it's a fuel tank situation?

The best rust penetrating product I've found is called DEEP CREEP, made by SeaFoam. Apply repeatedly over a few days prior to working the bolts.

98FPA · 11-15-2015, 01:32 PM

PB Blaster is another well known product to use on rusted bolts. As mentioned by edgray use the same application method.

Lt46 · 11-15-2015, 08:37 PM

Use hand tools only, no air. Work the bolts slowly.

dieselclacker · 11-16-2015, 06:58 PM

A mixture of 50 percent acetone and 50 percent atf makes avery good penetrating oil for loosening rusted nuts and bolts. Like using all penetrants, give it a little time to work.