Hand-waxing: what a chore!

[Fl_Richard]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

Yes and now there are several posts from folks that've used that product asking how to remove it because it turned yellow.

Could you point me to one of these posts? I've heard about them but cant find any.... Afew on flaking because of poor prep but no yellowing posts.

[PAB4]

Have ordered a new Winnebago 24 J. The dealer is trying to sell me a product called Xylon for $895. Salesperson says it is guaranteed for 5 years w/o waxing. Any comments pro or con. And isn't a new product supposed to be detailed and waxed before delivery.
Thanks

[Davdeb1]

Originally Posted by PAB4

Have ordered a new Winnebago 24 J. The dealer is trying to sell me a product called Xylon for $895. Salesperson says it is guaranteed for 5 years w/o waxing. Any comments pro or con. And isn't a new product supposed to be detailed and waxed before delivery.
Thanks

That is just a product that benefits the dealer by making a large profit on it. Part of new prep is detail, but not waxing. You have to do. Certain things to keep that products warranty in force.
You probably are getting full body paint. The best thing to do is just keep it clean. It will last just fine. If you feel you must wax, do it yourself, AFTER you've had it 6 months or so. There are plenty of easy to apply good waxes out there.

[khogle2]

Originally Posted by MorrenCraige

For me the biggest pain is dealing with water after I dry the coach. Takes forever to dry.

Use the deionized water and a big leaf blower. Minimal drying. Just some around the windows. I wash just before dusk, or early a.m.

Or wait for a cloudy day, which is pretty much every day in Michigan.

[Frutza]

To the guy's who are using Optimum, Poly-glow, Shine on, ect. How were your results? how faded was your Gel coat before you waxed? On the Shine on web site they keep putting on coats till they get the desired shine, is that the way the others work to? I did the Buff Magic, Meguires and Turtle wax restorer, it turned out nice but not great, not trying to highjack the tread, 50 deg here today, snow's melting, get ready boys!

[MandG-Fun]

Frutza, I've got a full year experience with the Optimum. It goes on super easy and after 6 months I reapplied and the previous coat was still looking great and beading up the water. Addressing your questions, my coach had a pretty good shine prior to using the Optimum. Also, only applied one coat.

[MandG-Fun]

A suggestion to those trying to avoid water spots. A detailing trick I learned years ago, use a steady stream of water rather than a spray to rinse after washing. I have an inline shut off valve followed by a 12" section of hose at the end. Use this stream to rinse and the water will sheet off much better than using the spray from a nozzle, leaving few droplets to spot. Also handy, quick and safe for the finish, as long as you keep it clean, is a Water Blade. It's a body squeegee made of silicone. Removes any water fast and easy.

[tunafish]

On a new fiberglass trailer Polyglow will produce a showroom new shine with two coats. I don't have any experience with old trailers, but on old chalky boats it can take six coats, but the shine is incredible compared to any wax. You just wipe it on with a chamois applicator on a pole, no buffing, do one side and the other is dry by the time you are done. You just go around and around. Some effort but a lot less than buffing.

The trick is to get the old boat/trailer really clean, wash it once with strong detergent, then again with the Poliglow cleaner. Use the cleaner as directed, it prepares the surface, if you don't use it the surface can repel the wax and cause problems. The cleaner will get all of the old wax residue, oil, grease and chalk off it. Make sure you remove all of the old black marks, grease etc. otherwise you're just going to get shiney dirt. Becareful use the small hand applicator around fittings and windows so you don't apply too much at once as it will produce a run/drip mark like paint. Be patient, do thin coats, with an old finish it takes 3-4 coats to fill the surface, then it will begin to shine.

I don't work for the company or have any reason to recommend it other than it works. I've used it on boats for 20 years.

Good Luck,

Bill

[Lincolnboy2]

Originally Posted by tunafish

On a new fiberglass trailer Polyglow will produce a showroom new shine with two coats. I don't have any experience with old trailers, but on old chalky boats it can take six coats, but the shine is incredible compared to any wax. You just wipe it on with a chamois applicator on a pole, no buffing, do one side and the other is dry by the time you are done. You just go around and around. Some effort but a lot less than buffing.

The trick is to get the old boat/trailer really clean, wash it once with strong detergent, then again with the Poliglow cleaner. Use the cleaner as directed, it prepares the surface, if you don't use it the surface can repel the wax and cause problems. The cleaner will get all of the old wax residue, oil, grease and chalk off it. Make sure you remove all of the old black marks, grease etc. otherwise you're just going to get shiney dirt. Becareful use the small hand applicator around fittings and windows so you don't apply too much at once as it will produce a run/drip mark like paint. Be patient, do thin coats, with an old finish it takes 3-4 coats to fill the surface, then it will begin to shine.

I don't work for the company or have any reason to recommend it other than it works. I've used it on boats for 20 years.

Good Luck,

Bill

X2 on the Poli Glow. The maintenance coats are so easy compared to waxing you can't believe the difference.

I have pictures of my coach after the Poli Glow...

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/exte...ml#post1318865

[wa8yxm]

To answer the O/Ps question

question is: after all these years has anyone come up with a miracle product that you can spray on, perhaps with a garden sprayer, that creates a polymer coat that produces a high-gloss and high UV & bug-gut resistance, and doesn' need a follow-up wiping-off or buffing after "drying to a haze"?

Most auto waxes are Carnauba That is a tree sap if I recall correctly (lookign it up) No, it is the wax on the leaf of a specific palm tree.

All the top rated waxes Meguiar's, Turtle Wax. Simonize and yes, Even the hot wax they spray on at the drive through auto wash is this self same wax.

I know of no polymer spray on.

[RV Manager]

Ok, I just finished waxing my coach, all 40 feet plus the roof. I am a believer in Girot products and used their spray on wax. Took me a total of about 6 hours including the roof. Spray on, wipe off with a micro fiber cloth and then buff with another cloth. Like someone else mentioned I usually do this once a year in the spring then every 2-3 months I wax a portion so that over the course of the year all body panels get a second and sometimes a third coat.
I am away on business as I write this but will post pictures when I return home Friday, which is my last day ,Hurrah, of work, then it is the open road.

[gbburgess]

I'm old and get grumpy when thinking about waxing. I wash my coach about every 3 weeks with a low pressure sprayer with Simply Green in the detergent tank. I scrub down with a long handle brush and then wash again. After that I change the detergent tank and add a sprayer carnuba wax and spray over the RV twice. I dry with my electric lawn blower. The whole job takes about 60 minutes after which I have a beer or two. Works for me and looks good - maybe not as good as your hand wax but I am happy which is what counts.

[Horizonchase]

Originally Posted by MandG-Fun

I've tried Rejex on just the front of my coach and its a good product but way too much work for no better payoff than some other products, IMHO. I found a product called Optimum for a car detailer supplier website, its not as expensive and a whole lot easier to apply and my experience is that it lasts 4-6 months. Optimum makes a number of products but I use their carwash and the wax. They say their carwash is designed to help the wax to last longer.

The wax is liquid which you just put in a spray bottle, spray it on and use a microfiber cloth to remove while its still wet, easy on and easy off instantly. Also, no problem applying it in the sun as long as the surface is not hot. Rejex tells you not to apply in the sun or even allow direct sunlight to hit the surface for 24 hours. I don't have an RV garage or large trees surrounding my driveway so I haven't figured out how to do this. With the Optimum I can wax my entire coach in 2 hours with no problem, and no sore arm.

I order the Optimum wash (OPT-201) and wax (OPT-101) on the web, I get it from Autopia Car Care. I don't own stock in the company or know anyone that does, so no personal gain for me, just sharing what has been a great product.

Here is a picture of my 14 year old coach with original paint.

You done her mighty proud!! I'll consider using that product in the future. As it is now I have waaaaay to many waxes. I guess I keep searchin' for that Holy Grail of waxes!

[PanJH]

Originally Posted by akeyzoo

For me the biggest pain is dealing with water after I dry the coach. Takes forever to dry. Anyone use this:

CRSpotless Water Systems™ Spotless Car Wash De-Ionized Spotless Water

Chris

I bought one last year ( they were on sale at Costco) and they work great. I have a dark blue truck and a brown coach and very hard water here. No matter what I did, there would be water spots... now, with the deionizer, I just use it for a final rinse and no spots