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Old 08-03-2020, 10:56 PM   #15
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If it is not too late put never seeze on the cones before you put them back together. You will thank me later.
I couldn't find Never-Seez locally but got some Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant which appears to be equivalent to the Never-Seize Regular copper with graphite formulation. Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-03-2020, 11:10 PM   #16
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Mechanic that recently had to fight most of mine off had to use a air chissel set on low, to vibrate them out.
He came back a couple of days later to do the other side, I had loosened all the nuts, and sprayed with penetrating oil a couple times, one smack on the axle with the sledge, they all were lose.
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Old 08-08-2020, 06:08 PM   #17
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You guys have been a big help. I could use a little more if you can.
The chrome hubcap on the right drive axle popped right off with the first tap with a rubber mallet. The left axle hub cap doesn't want to come off at all. I don't want to scratch it badly but I can't seem to pry it off with a screwdriver small enough to fit inside the rim. I soaked the cap with PB Blaster with no change.
Does anyone know an effective way to pop it off?
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Old 08-08-2020, 06:25 PM   #18
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You guys have been a big help. I could use a little more if you can.
The chrome hubcap on the right drive axle popped right off with the first tap with a rubber mallet. The left axle hub cap doesn't want to come off at all. I don't want to scratch it badly but I can't seem to pry it off with a screwdriver small enough to fit inside the rim. I soaked the cap with PB Blaster with no change.
Does anyone know an effective way to pop it off?
Don't know what the diameter is of your cap, but I once watched a mechanic wrap a shop rag around a cylindrical hubcap and twist it off using an oil filter strap wrench. So that might work if the diameters match up...

Mike
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Old 08-08-2020, 11:32 PM   #19
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Don't know what the diameter is of your cap, but I once watched a mechanic wrap a shop rag around a cylindrical hubcap and twist it off using an oil filter strap wrench. So that might work if the diameters match up...

Mike
I have several different sizes of strap wrenches but I don't think any are large enough for my 9" diameter hub caps. I will try that tomorrow if I can get the strap around it.
You did jog my memory though. Many years ago I think it was my Dad who told me you could fashion a tourniquet-like tool with a line formed into a loop which you could squeeze tightly around something by putting something like a breaker bar through the loop and twisting. I may be able to tighten a rope and squeeze the cap to pop it off.
It's always good to have a Plan A and B.
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Old 08-09-2020, 10:23 AM   #20
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I couldn't find Never-Seez locally but got some Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant which appears to be equivalent to the Never-Seize Regular copper with graphite formulation. Thanks in advance.

Great stuff, just DON'T use it on anything Aluminum. Tire shop used it on the aluminum wheels on my pick-up and I spent a couple of days trying to remove the rims so I could rotate the tires.
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Old 08-09-2020, 11:32 AM   #21
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Great stuff, just DON'T use it on anything Aluminum. Tire shop used it on the aluminum wheels on my pick-up and I spent a couple of days trying to remove the rims so I could rotate the tires.
Another formulation uses aluminum instead of copper like the one I bought. Is that one compatible with aluminum?
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Old 08-09-2020, 11:47 AM   #22
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I learned a lot from y'all about different ways to skin this cat.
I have somewhat of a reputation for being an avid conservationist. I try my best to conserve my energy but some might call me lazy. I also try to conserve my money but some might call me cheap.
Someone once told me I was so cheap that if I squeezed a nickel any harder I could make the buffalo poop.

Just a couple of comment here which have absolutely nothing to do with the issue at hand but I thought might bring some comic relief.

1. Don't skin the cat, the fur isn't good for anything and they don't taste good whether you skin them or not.
2.Laziness is a virtue. If man was not lazy we would still be hunting with spears, never invented the automobile and we'd be walking to national parks.
3.That is NOT buffalo poop it is nitrogen rich, organic fertilizer.
Go ahead throw the brick I'm ducking.
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Old 08-09-2020, 12:12 PM   #23
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Which statement(s) is/are true?
Location, Location, Location
Price, Price, Price
Perspective, Perspective, Perspective
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Old 08-10-2020, 08:03 PM   #24
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Another formulation uses aluminum instead of copper like the one I bought. Is that one compatible with aluminum?
It is the copper that is not compatible with Aluminum. It has to do with the Galvanic scale where some metals are more resistant to corrosion due to electrical currents. Copper is high on the scale and aluminum is a lot lower. That is why Aluminum and Magnesium and Zink are used as sacrificial materials in water heaters and marine equipment.
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Old 08-13-2020, 05:08 AM   #25
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Check the cones for any burrs on the inside where they slide over the stud. These can be caused by over-torquring the nut or the wrong lockwasher installed.
Makes then very hard to get off next time.
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Old 08-23-2020, 12:36 PM   #26
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One thing I never anticipated when I removed the axle to replace the torn up gasket the tow truck driver replaced without mentioning it to me was how difficult it is to get back in. Perhaps it was easy for him having done it before many times.
I spent several hours yesterday without success trying to line up the splined end of the axle with the hole in the side of the differential. Daylight and my right wrist gave out at about the same time. I am going to go at again today because I'm dead in the water until I get it put back together.
When I shined a flashlight up the axle housing I was surprised to see two identical holes on the side of the differential. The top one seems to be the only one possible that the axle could align with. What would be the purpose of the bottom one?
Also, should I be concerned about the splines being exactly lined up as they were when I removed them? What do the red and green dots on the end plate mean, especially the red one by itself?
Do any of you guys with experience doing this have any tips or techniques for making this job a little easier? Sorry about all the beginner's questions but I sure could use some help with this one.
TIA
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Old 08-23-2020, 03:14 PM   #27
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Just stick a snug fitting bar in one axle bolt hole and pry down, lifting the spline UP, way in there. Its sitting below the hole.

Then turn and push until it slides in.
There is no spline alignment, anywhere is good.
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Old 08-23-2020, 07:57 PM   #28
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Just stick a snug fitting bar in one axle bolt hole and pry down, lifting the spline UP, way in there. Its sitting below the hole.

Then turn and push until it slides in.
There is no spline alignment, anywhere is good.
twinboat to the rescue, once again! It took awhile but I finally got it all back together.
All I need to do is top off the differential and go to a vacant lot I have scoped out with a 4" curb to fill the axle housings with synthetic gear oil. A couple of 2" X 12" boards on top of the curb will give me about 7" height to do the job.
As an added bonus I got some use out of the axle nut cone pliers I bought for my split cone washers the tow truck driver either pocketed or threw away. The handles of the pliers worked perfectly to both lift and spin the axle splines into position.
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